I was keen to do this job, but I was daunted by starting it! So I thought I would write-up my findings to help others.

My Defender is a 110 USW, and (for my needs) the rear end is too stiff. Ride is OK when fully loaded, but for the vast majority of the time I don't carry that much gear (kayaks, mountain bikes etc). SWMBO complains about the "choppy ride"...

Thanks to MountainMan for this information on USW and CSW springs for 110:

Quote:

USW is fitted with purple/brown progressive springs. CSW is fitted with white/green/green springs - which my mate, who has had both, reports are a far better ride on the utility wagon

CSW 110 7 Seat RKB500300 White/green/green 422.96mm

USW 110 Utility RKB101111 Purple/Brown 409.96mm

The info from LR is not clear but if you are on brown/purples then some white/green/greens may improve the ride. If you asre already on W/G/G then options are probably aftermarket only or earlier springs which won't be progressive.

So I bought some RKB500300 springs from Dan @ Duckworth Parts (Defender2.NET sponsor of course), and they duly arrived as promised 2 days later

The most daunting piece was jacking the rear of the Defender, and then supporting the chassis on axle stands. However it all went quite well.

1. Slightly loosen the rear wheel nuts.

2. I used a trolley jack (under the rear diff) to jack-up the rear till both rear wheels were just off the ground, and then positioned the axle stands on the chassis (with a wooden block for protection) at the lower of the chassis where the rear towing bracket bolts are (just behind the rear anti-roll bar mount). Remove rear wheels before lowering the vehicle onto axle stands.

3. With the rear wheels off, I lowered the vehicle so the chassis (only slightly - the axle stands were touching before I removed the jack from the diff) was supported by the axle stands (leaving the jack as well for additional security).

This allows the axle to "hang" on the shock absorbers, with the weight off it.

4. Starting with the passenger side, I used the vehicles own bottle jack to support the axle so that I could remove the upper shock absorber mounting (17mm I believe).

5. With the shock removed, I removed the 2 nuts/bolts on the lower spring seat:

This picture shows the upper shock absorber mounting removed, and a spanner on the bolt on the lower spring seat:

Click image to enlarge

This picture shows the loosening of the lower spring seat:


Click image to enlarge

Note that the bolt (upper) is 13mm, and the nut underneath is 15mm...

6. Once the lower spring mounting is removed, you should feel the spring is a little bit loose in it's housing, but no way you can get it out yet.

Other than getting the chassis mounted on axle stands, the next bit is the tricky bit.

7. Using spring compressors, compress the spring by about 2 inches so it can be removed.

TIP: Use the standard bottle jack to raise the other side of the axle slightly, it has the effect of "rocking" the side you are working on so the axle is slightly lower by a few mm - makes it a LOT easier (I found out the hard way, when I was doing the 2nd spring ).

Spring Compressor - borrowed image:



My spring compressor was about £20 delivered off ebay - I bought "US PRO" ones, 370mm



8. After that you can wiggle the spring out of position.

Here's mine (new & old) side-by-side:

Click image to enlarge

Whilst apart, I cleaned all the components, and applied a bit more dinitrol to parts I hadn't reached when I treated the chassis last year (such as inside the upper shock housing).

9. Remove the spring compressor from the spring you have just taken off, and put the spring compressor onto the new spring. Tighten the spring compressor to shorten the spring so you can get it seated back to the vehicle.

10. Seat the new spring in the vehicle and remove the spring compressor (if you jacked the opposite side of the axle slightly, the spring will be easy to rotate and position into it's proper position by hand).

11. Re-install the spring lower mounting, and fasten the retainer plate with the 2 nuts & bolts. NOTE: There were 2 washers on each bolt, and they both fitted between the retainer and the lower mounting (i.e. some sort of packing).

Torque for spring retainer plate = 45 Nm

12. Use the bottle jack again on the side you are working to level-up the axle so that you can refit the top mounting of the shock absorber.

Torque for upper shock absorber mounting = 75 Nm
Lower mounting (to axle) 38Nm

Double-check everything.

13. Put the wheels back on (I had to raise my trolley jack under the diff slightly to get the wheels on, because the axle sat slightly lower that would allow the wheel to line-up). Wheel nuts slightly tightened at this point.

14. Remove Axle stands, lower vehicle.

Alloy Wheel Torque is 130 Nm.

Finished

It took 3 hours from start to finish. Like all these things if I did it again it would be much quicker (the 2nd spring was much quicker than the first!).

Has it worked? I don't know yet. I'll report back when I've done a few miles. Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)

Lukey Boy wrote:

Wow. Excellent write up, Martin I might think about this in the future. My wife complains of a bouncy ride and i don't carry heavy loads that often. Could I be cheaky and as you how much the springs were?

Springs are RRP £63 (ish) each for genuine Land Rover. But you had better check yours - they should already be CSW springs in which case you'll need something else, I know szracer on the Forum had some from Extreme 4x4 which are softer than CSW ones...

Pattern Parts (i.e. Britpart etc) are available for around £43 (each) on the web (try googling the part numbers given above).

Dan at Duckworths gave me a Forum Discount (give him a PM or call) on genuine parts. I wanted LR Original because my Defender is still in Warranty (and I don't want any modifications to be obvious to a dealer in case they try & wiggle out of a warranty claim in the next 2 years ). If I was out of warranty, I would have bought pattern parts (or Bearmach or Terrafirma or something)... Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)

Go Beyond wrote:

Excellent write up - but you can do this without the need of spring compressors if you want, there is enough room if you use a prybar (and maybe a bottle jack between axle and chassis) to get the springs in / out ....

When researching the job, I found a youtube video of someone doing this in a "remote place" - he basically jumped up and down on the hub/axle (with shock disconnected, and on a high-lift jack IIRC) whilst his mate wrestled with the spring - they did manage it. ...but I'm a bit more risk averse The spring compressor did make the job fairly easy... Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)

MartinK wrote:

Go Beyond wrote:

Excellent write up - but you can do this without the need of spring compressors if you want, there is enough room if you use a prybar (and maybe a bottle jack between axle and chassis) to get the springs in / out ....

When researching the job, I found a youtube video of someone doing this in a "remote place" - he basically jumped up and down on the hub/axle (with shock disconnected, and on a high-lift jack IIRC) whilst his mate wrestled with the spring - they did manage it. ...but I'm a bit more risk averse The spring compressor did make the job fairly easy...

It's definately easier with the right tools

Although it's amazing how easy it is for a spring to 'fall out' whilst offroading when you don't want it to !!!

MartinK wrote:

Lukey Boy wrote:

Wow. Excellent write up, Martin I might think about this in the future. My wife complains of a bouncy ride and i don't carry heavy loads that often. Could I be cheaky and as you how much the springs were?

Springs are RRP £63 (ish) each for genuine Land Rover. But you had better check yours - they should already be CSW springs in which case you'll need something else, I know szracer on the Forum had some from Extreme 4x4 which are softer than CSW ones...

Pattern Parts (i.e. Britpart etc) are available for around £43 (each) on the web (try googling the part numbers given above).

Dan at Duckworths gave me a Forum Discount (give him a PM or call) on genuine parts. I wanted LR Original because my Defender is still in Warranty (and I don't want any modifications to be obvious to a dealer in case they try & wiggle out of a warranty claim in the next 2 years ). If I was out of warranty, I would have bought pattern parts (or Bearmach or Terrafirma or something)...

Thanks for the advise Martin,  2008 110 XS CSW Stornoway Grey