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Home > Technical > Window seals

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niglyn Member Since: 12 Jun 2009 Location: Surrey Posts: 82

Window seals Hi all, Put my new defender in for warranty work. The horizontal rubber seal between the wind up window and the door has a big gap underneath, which will allow water to run down the window onto the rubber seal, under it and into the door frame, thus causing corrosion issues in later life. LR refused to do the work saying they were all like that! I have removed the seal myself to get a better look. The ally door skin bends at right angles under the rubber and then stops. The upsatand bit which the rubber seal attaches to is a seperate fabrication and where the two join is not water tight, thus all the water can seep through the joint. Also when braking/accelerating, the water will run along to the front/back where it can then easily run into the door. On my 07 & 300tdi, there was no gap at all. Would be interested to hear how other peeps landies compare. LR also refused to attend to the rust on the chassis or bumper, saying it was normal for a brand new vehicle to be rusty!

24th Jul 2009 6:32pm

Eduardo Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Región Metropolitana Posts: 2110	Niglyn, In mine, as far as I remember, the rubber seal appears to be well placed. Anyway I will re-check during the weekend. Cheers Eduardo MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64' MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo" Click image to enlarge
24th Jul 2009 7:21pm

Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266	The water will run out of the drain holes in the door,it doesn't have to be a tight fit. 2.4 90 XS 1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up.
25th Jul 2009 8:01am

niglyn Member Since: 12 Jun 2009 Location: Surrey Posts: 82

Tight fit? There is a huge gap along the whole length. With the inner door frame made of steel and the outer aluminium door skin, electrolitic action will occur and the ally skin will corrode and end up full of holes. I know this as it happened on my 300tdi. this was after 10 years but it did have far better door seals. I replaced the doors on my 2a and again they bubbled through after a few years. Poor aftermarket panels which were bare steel on the inside, where one cannot paint. Every other car in the world apart from the new pumas have seals that are a tight fit. I suspect LR have changed supplier of the seal, which to me, appears that the lower skirt is now too short so will never touch the door, let alone bell out to form a seal. I know the 300s had a good seal other than a rivit which lifts it slightly, I remember putting pug around it. similarly, my 07 was ok, I added a bit of extra pug at either end to stop water ingress. Having the 300 rot out, it is one thing I am vary wary of, thus am horrified with what I find on the new 09.

25th Jul 2009 9:15am

Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266	niglyn, the doors on a puma are steel not ally. 2.4 90 XS 1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up.
25th Jul 2009 9:20am

willy eckerslike Member Since: 15 Jun 2009 Location: North yorks Posts: 1789	niglyn take a photo and show us what you mean
25th Jul 2009 2:39pm

mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5068	Grockle wrote: niglyn, the doors on a puma are steel not ally. The skins? I know the frames have always been but the skin is usually alli Mike
25th Jul 2009 8:59pm

YORKSHIRELAD Member Since: 17 Mar 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 159	I thought the skins were alloy too. Get the magnet out time . Richard 1963 Series 2A truck cab 2008 110 SW
25th Jul 2009 9:46pm

YORKSHIRELAD Member Since: 17 Mar 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 159	I thought the skins were alloy too. Get the magnet out time . Richard 1963 Series 2A truck cab 2008 110 SW
25th Jul 2009 9:46pm

YORKSHIRELAD Member Since: 17 Mar 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 159	I thought the skins were alloy too. Get the magnet out time . Richard 1963 Series 2A truck cab 2008 110 SW
25th Jul 2009 9:47pm

YORKSHIRELAD Member Since: 17 Mar 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 159	I thought the skins were alloy too. Get the magnet out time . Richard 1963 Series 2A truck cab 2008 110 SW
25th Jul 2009 9:47pm

Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266	Richard was that all four doors checked ,dealer told me that when the puma models came out Ford's cost cutters wanted steel used not ally on the doors. 2.4 90 XS 1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up.
26th Jul 2009 9:53am

YORKSHIRELAD Member Since: 17 Mar 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 159	Grockle wrote: Richard was that all four doors checked ,dealer told me that when the puma models came out Ford's cost cutters wanted steel used not ally on the doors. Ooops. A bit giddy with the trigger finger there. Interesting about the doors though. Richard 1963 Series 2A truck cab 2008 110 SW
26th Jul 2009 2:30pm

niglyn Member Since: 12 Jun 2009 Location: Surrey Posts: 82

Steel! Yikes!!! Don't Ford know how good british car manufacturers are at making steel rust? I give these new puma steel doors 3 years till they start rusting out. I think I will drill a few holes in the inner frame (after removing the door panels) so Rustmaster will be able to get right in there and give it a real good squirt. The poor fitting rubber seals are really going to let all the water into the doors. The seals do not have a long enough skirt on them to give a good seal, or on my vehicle, even touch the paintwork. Either LR have changed the seal they use or they fabricate the doors differently so the upstand where the seal clips into is too high.

27th Jul 2009 4:22pm

Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266	the only good thing is you don't have different metals to react with each other,just make sure the drain holes don't get blocked . 2.4 90 XS 1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up.
27th Jul 2009 4:35pm

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