Home > Puma (Tdci) > Making a Puma engine last 200k |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17501 |
My injectors have never (yet) been out - original injectors and seals, 279,000+ miles.
The only things that have been replaced repeatedly are VCVs and clutches, although to be fair the most recent clutch is now approaching 150k miles. In 2007 you were lucky to get 3k miles from a Puma clutch. |
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14th Jan 2025 12:22pm |
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Julie Member Since: 07 Oct 2017 Location: Nantes Posts: 508 |
To get 200K from my Ford Duratorq Puma engine, I do like all the Transit vans with Ford Duratorq Puma installed :
I drive long distance, no tuning and I follow the service schedule Nobody does replace injectors in Transit vans, too. |
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14th Jan 2025 1:45pm |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20529 |
My situation is basically the same as Blackwolf, only mine is on quite a lot less miles.
I try and avoid replacing some parts unless they need to be, as you can just keep going with that and replaced perfectly good items for no reason and at cost. Occasionally it can pay to replace something so it has even longer service life. But as I mentioned, it just wasteful to replace parts for the sake of it, there are a few items that are worth it though. I’m not quite sure what to make of replacing the timing chain and guides, I’ve had it mentioned before but equally garages would. The VCV is quite common, presumably I think it’s just wear, but is sensitive to contaminants going in like water, what is annoying is it might not be performing that well for a while, but not so badly as you’d notice. It’s a shame it isn’t covered by diagnostics directly, as then you could check its performance. You can check pressures down the line, but that isn’t always particularly conclusive. No Guts, No Glory. 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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14th Jan 2025 6:57pm |
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jbcollier Member Since: 29 Apr 2024 Location: Edmonton AB Posts: 128 |
Just to add to mix, while the 2.4 is a fine engine, anything you buy is going to be old, 12 years+. You will probably need to redo consumables such as hoses, belt/idlers/tensioner, water pump, brake/clutch masters, flex-lines, etc. These things simply time out even with low miles.
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15th Jan 2025 12:13am |
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BrickBox Member Since: 05 Oct 2021 Location: Wales Posts: 847 |
As above. Intercooler/radiators/boost pipes/coolant pipes even on the youngest Defenders are coming up for 10 years old. So expect to need to do consumables such as brittle pipes etc. 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS.
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15th Jan 2025 7:18am |
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Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5873 |
For those of you who've mentioned it, what thoughts on the engine/injector cleaning fluids?
Do they work? Worth the money? My 2.4 is now at 110k and I'm wondering what would be some good maintenance or clean up at this age? Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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15th Jan 2025 5:14pm |
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Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2084 |
Forte Diesel Specialist Injector Cleaner (via the fuel filter and rest in tank) Is VERY good, if used once every year. I’ve used it on several vehicles that have done a lot of miles on original injectors and they have always benefited from its use.
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15th Jan 2025 5:22pm |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20529 |
I use millers Diesel standard dosage in the tank 99% of the time, with the odd time I might not use it but very little.
I tend to use 25ml to 25L most, but you can use 50ml to 50L as well, so long as it’s dosed accurately as possible it’s fine. Helps keep injectors cleaner, MPG, helps keep diesel bug at bay etc. You can use it double dose like 1 shot like Forte presumably? But Millers you use standard dose constantly, effectively it’s running on super diesel all the time, you just fill up with standard diesel and it adds lubricity and a few cetane numbers. It’s the only additive I trust, many other members on here use it as well. No Guts, No Glory. 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 Last edited by custom90 on 15th Jan 2025 6:19pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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15th Jan 2025 5:27pm |
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Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5873 |
I'll try and find Millers or Forte, check them out. Bardahl is the quality brand around here.
Given, to my knowledge, it's never had an additive before (save buying Total Excellieum) would it be worth chucking in a full system cleaner/scrubber like this first: https://english.bardahl.fr/en-us/our-produ...aner-500ml Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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15th Jan 2025 6:09pm |
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Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2084 |
Not all clearers are the same. Forte is good and available on french bay of e.
Best is to fill fuel filter with it, then rest in tank ( lower tank level the better so it’s less diluted) , go for a 20 minute drive and it should have run through all the fuel system inc injectors. Then get the millers ecomax for regular use when filling up |
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15th Jan 2025 7:46pm |
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Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5873 |
Thanks for the tip, will track some down today. Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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16th Jan 2025 7:22am |
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Julie Member Since: 07 Oct 2017 Location: Nantes Posts: 508 |
If you bought Premium Diesel with U.S. standard Diesel specs (i.e. containing injector cleaner), it would help. Injectors suffer from short distance trips / cold engines. Additif cannot work since quantity is far too small. Don't expect too much from it. If the cleaning effect was too strong, it would ruin EGR etc. |
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16th Jan 2025 12:40pm |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20529 |
I tend to go by the general rule of thumb no to mix these things.
So if you use premium / super diesel use that only. If you use a product like Millers use that only with standard diesel. Not mix standard or super fuel, and not mix the additive with others and stick to its standard dose. If you do have to go without the additive, which can rarely happen, I just use the standard diesel, It’s best to under do it, than over do it, this is just what I do. I always use Millers, but Forte and Wynn’s are supposedly good. I just personally wouldn’t mix them, if you did do what Ian mentioned you could but you’d want to run the fuel down to very little of one type, so that the vast majority is flushed out. I use the Millers because it’s been verified by diesel techs, and plant machinery techs to keep engine internal components in good stead. It also saves faffing around trying to find premium / super diesel, some places don’t have any. Super is only really regular spec diesel with additives added by the supplier, whatever that may be. And that’ll likely be Eco benefits rather than anything else, perhaps not so good for the engine. No Guts, No Glory. 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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16th Jan 2025 12:59pm |
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Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5873 |
Thanks Custom90.
I was really looking for a 'forced' clean. I try my best to use Excellium, so I tend to get all the additives, but not always possible. This is more about giving it a thorough clean much as IanH has suggested, and then good fuels through the year. Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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16th Jan 2025 2:21pm |
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