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Siwynne



Member Since: 04 Nov 2016
Location: West lancs
Posts: 593

England 
Grenadier wrote:
Siwynne wrote:
I have two failures. Both due to oil starvation. 1st one the oil pump disintegrated second a small piece of what appeared to be black Bakelite type plastic blocked a piston cooling jet. I personally rebuilt after each failure without having the block machined just rehoned at home.the failures were over 25k miles apart so am assuming unrelated I have access to proper measuring equipment and all was still in tolerances. This shows how some parts/systems are weak but others are more resilient.
Lessons learned
1. Change the oil pump from the variable veined type to the geared type to avoid this type of failure and then at 50 60 k intervals
2. Replace oil pick up plastic tube with new anytime the sump is off to avoid the second type of failure as this is where i suspect the plastic came from


Hi Siwynne,

Can you explain more please, especially on point 1. Any photos or part numbers? Thumbs Up



The 2.4 has a geared pump without a small pipe. I bought a pump and blanking plug off a local transit expert who changes the pumps as a service item. I don’t have a part no but will look to find some
Post #1058140 21st Jan 2025 4:07pm
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steveww



Member Since: 05 Jan 2022
Location: Malton
Posts: 577

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Bronze Green
I have a OBD reader showing engine data, mainly temperatures. When pulling up hill in 6th gear at low RPM the temps shoot up; not so good for the engine. I always change down, more revs, more oil and coolant flow equals lowers temps.

I also use Millers diesel additive on most tank fill ups. Which reminds me I need to get some more.
Post #1059541 4th Feb 2025 6:57pm
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jim4244



Member Since: 13 Apr 2014
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 853

England 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
Personally I think that the quality of the engine oil, make of filter (oil, fuel & air) and frequency of oil and filter changes are the main factor that dictate engine longlivity.

I only use Castrol Magnatec A5 oil and when it comes to filters I only fit genuine Land Rover or Mann. Engine service is 5000 miles or yearly. I also change the fuel and air filter at the same time. I know that this is overkill but filters are cheaper than replacement engines..

Does anyone on here add any oil additives?

Jim
Post #1059559 5th Feb 2025 5:58am
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Oldyellar



Member Since: 04 Sep 2015
Location: Central
Posts: 406

Scotland 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
I had a 2.2 transit tipper it was remapped but it was really economical as well as fast. A year or so after remapping I done a mpg run over a few days trying to achieve max mpg and like a fool labouring the engine. It holed a piston. These engines are van engines made to reved, made to fly up and down streets in 2nd gear doing delivery's. I'll never make that mistake again.
Post #1059561 5th Feb 2025 7:20am
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Julie



Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: Nantes
Posts: 553

France 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Re: Making a Puma engine last 200k
Jon w wrote:
We all know the horror stories of the puma engines blowing up and needing replacement. But what general maintenance is required to get one to reach 200k or is it bad luck with injectors etc?


Most of the early Pumas for sale in the internet are near or even above 200 K - Transit vans of that âge have even higher mileages.

Very few did in deed replace engines / injectors

So a more recent Puma should perform like so
Post #1059754 7th Feb 2025 6:23am
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BrickBox



Member Since: 05 Oct 2021
Location: Wales
Posts: 883

Wales 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
It’s just typical internet talk where only the failed ones make threads. There are millions of these transit engines in vehicles over the world. We are talking a tiny % of failures in the total. 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS.
Post #1059756 7th Feb 2025 7:44am
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2316

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
blackwolf wrote:

although to be fair the most recent clutch is now approaching 150k miles.


What clutch is this bw? the Transit 4x4 one SACHS 3000 950 727 ? > 110 XS Double Cab
Post #1059819 7th Feb 2025 2:22pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17603

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
No, it is actually a Genuine Parts one bought probably c.2015, by which time LR had more or less managed to remember how to make a driven plate. It has lasted a lot longer than I expected, and has had very little springiness for quite some time.

I already have its replacement waiting for when the time comes, which is a Transit 4x4 clutch.
Post #1059838 7th Feb 2025 4:52pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20616

United Kingdom 
I’m happy with mine the Sachs one, I has quite bad luck with the LR ones, they just didn’t last but also included slave failure which was the 2.4 original fitment. The 2.2 system seems better. Touch wood. Chillin In The Backwoods🇬🇧🇺🇸
⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #1059863 7th Feb 2025 6:56pm
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Julie



Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: Nantes
Posts: 553

France 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
The 2.2 clutch really is "better". I had to replace the the master. But I'm still on my original 2012 clutch and 150K. 2 independant mécanos confirmed that I do not have to replace witin the next 2 years (after test drive).
Post #1059897 8th Feb 2025 6:06am
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o4dn



Member Since: 08 Jan 2010
Location: South West
Posts: 555

France 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Quote:
The 2.2 clutch really is "better". I had to replace the the master. But I'm still on my original 2012 clutch and 150K.

150k km or miles?

FWIW, my MY2009 Puma 2.4 Defender 90 is still on its original clutch (short of 120k km) “A Land Rover immobilized is a moral defeat for the driver and bad publicity for the vehicle, […] it's up to you to do justice to your Land Rover!” - Land Rover Driving Technique.
--
2009 2.4 Puma Defender 90 SW
1979 Land Rover Series 3 88"


Last edited by o4dn on 8th Feb 2025 7:41am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #1059904 8th Feb 2025 7:40am
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Oldyellar



Member Since: 04 Sep 2015
Location: Central
Posts: 406

Scotland 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
BrickBox wrote:
It’s just typical internet talk where only the failed ones make threads. There are millions of these transit engines in vehicles over the world. We are talking a tiny % of failures in the total.


I.think the puma is a very good engine I've had them since 2000 when the first 2.4s and 2.0 came out in the transit the 2.4s back then where tddi rather than tdci and had a bosch vp fuel pump that was basically the same fuel pump as the 300tdo uses.
Puma is probably the best engine ever fitted to a transit.
Post #1059905 8th Feb 2025 7:41am
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Julie



Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: Nantes
Posts: 553

France 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
The 2.5 DI on the Transit MK2 is a very good engine, too.

https://www.curbsideclassic.com/blog/cc-gl...ansit-bus/
Post #1059944 8th Feb 2025 1:05pm
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90 Dreamer



Member Since: 13 Jul 2019
Location: Oop North
Posts: 2188

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
just exceptionally slow............
Post #1059951 8th Feb 2025 1:48pm
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Oldyellar



Member Since: 04 Sep 2015
Location: Central
Posts: 406

Scotland 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
Julie wrote:
The 2.5 DI on the Transit MK2 is a very good engine, too.

https://www.curbsideclassic.com/blog/cc-gl...ansit-bus/



Very good engine the Di love the crackle off them. Just horrendously slow and were outdated by 2000 when they were discontinued
Post #1060494 13th Feb 2025 3:24pm
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