 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Oil Everywhere! |
 
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| ior Member Since: 30 Jan 2020 Location: Suffolk Posts: 10   
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Yes correct. Sorry should have clarified.
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30th Jan 2020 12:10pm |
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| Gloucesternige Member Since: 17 Jan 2020 Location: In the garage Posts: 114  
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If anyone's interested I got mine from MM4x4. They cost £19.84 for all four and are Elring. Part no is LR004662 Nige Check out my You Tube channel https://www.youtube.com/c/Defender90KeswickNigelsLandRoverchannel |
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30th Jan 2020 12:13pm |
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| AndyS Member Since: 18 Aug 2012 Location: London Posts: 595 
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Thanks everyone for your input and I did read them as they were posted but it all got a bit above me so I kept quiet.
I'm really short of money at the moment so I saved and put money aside and finally got the local mechanic to change the fuel pump cover as he said sometimes the gasket goes hard and stops sealing. Sounds feasible but it totally didn't work, it's now ten times worse. This is the drip off after a ten mile drive whereas it wasn't really dripping much before with my 'rag poked down the back of the pulley housing' bodge. This is under the car, you can imagine what it's like under the bonnet.  Click image to enlarge The local mechanic has taken the car off the road as I can't drive it like this, it's too dangerous for motorcycles and cyclists. I took it back to him today and he suggested changing the vacuum pump gasket but it's leaking out of the fuel pump cover so that's just throwing more money at it without an actual fix in sight. I should have done it myself in the first place. I'm used to working on Minis and the Defender seemed too complicated but I've got to the point where if you want something done properly, do it yourself. What size spanner is the fan nut? |
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4th Sep 2020 7:25pm |
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| spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4709 
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Check where the dipstick goes into the engine. There is a rubber "O" on the tube that sometimes needs replacing. Cured an oil leak I had.
Also gasket seals at the side of the engine at the manifold go and oil gets forced out . Both are inexpensive to fix. Hopefully one of these is your problem. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel 1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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6th Sep 2020 3:33pm |
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| dannyragsdale Member Since: 06 Oct 2022 Location: Eastern Highlands, PNG Posts: 40  
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Did you ever figure out where the leak was coming from, Andy? I am having a similar issue.
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4th Jan 2024 5:34am |
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| jbcollier Member Since: 29 Apr 2024 Location: Edmonton AB Posts: 119  
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Clean the engine and figure out where it is coming from. Then repair as needed. Simple…
BUT It can also be not that simple. There are two areas that can cause oil leakage where normally there was none. The first, and most obvious, is leaking injector seals. These are the copper seals between the injectors and the combustion chamber. If they are leaking then high-pressure combustion gases are able to flow into the crankcase. This can overwhelm the crankcase venting and pressurize the engine until it pushes oil out any where it can. You need to change the seals, and most probably, reface the injector seats. The second is a variation on the first. In cold climates, moisture from the crankcase venting can condense, freeze, and block/restrict the vent. This, again, allows crankcase pressure to build up and push out any where it can. In this case LR has a special inline heater for the vent hose that solves the issue. It should be noted that a worn engine will allow more blow by gasses which will give similar results to the above. Usually though, this is a gradual development and not a sudden catastrophic advent like the above two. YMMV |
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25th Dec 2024 8:11pm |
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| Waka56 Member Since: 08 Nov 2023 Location: Hamburg Posts: 164 
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When I bought my car, the engine was oily everywhere, but not to the extend that it licks like crazy on the ground, the oil was coming from the injectors seals (the one between the injectors and the rocker cover). Since I changed the cooper seals and the rocker to injectors seals, my engine is dry. Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
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27th Dec 2024 11:27am |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2427  
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Thanks but I am actually trying to find an old post where a chap dissasembled the vacuum pump. Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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27th Dec 2024 12:13pm |
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| jbcollier Member Since: 29 Apr 2024 Location: Edmonton AB Posts: 119
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Here is a video on pump disassembly. You first need to measure how far the pulley is pressed onto the shaft before taking it apart. You absolutely, 100%, need a press.
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27th Dec 2024 2:57pm |
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| jbcollier Member Since: 29 Apr 2024 Location: Edmonton AB Posts: 119
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I’m not finding any source for the internal o-rings and pulley seal. Your local industrial supply may be able to help.
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27th Dec 2024 3:05pm |
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| jbcollier Member Since: 29 Apr 2024 Location: Edmonton AB Posts: 119
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Maybe this one…
https://fordfocus.com.ua/en/ga29540-remkom...osa-24-tdi |
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27th Dec 2024 3:21pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2427
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Very useful. Thanks! Puma 110" SW ............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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27th Dec 2024 3:25pm |
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| jbcollier Member Since: 29 Apr 2024 Location: Edmonton AB Posts: 119
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I have found three or four kits listed for sale. Only the Ukrainian site seems to actually have them and they don’t ship out of country. The other listings are now NLA. If you find a source, please let us know.
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28th Dec 2024 7:57pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2427
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IIRC that post I have not found yet shows the guy replacing the original single lip seal by other with double lip. So probably you do not need the whole kit, just the seal. Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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29th Dec 2024 10:58am |
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