 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Puma pushing out coolant |
 
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| BrickBox Member Since: 05 Oct 2021 Location: Wales Posts: 847   
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Replace the expansion cap first. The pressure valve is common for failing and not opening.
Cheap fix, fingers crossed. 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS. |
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3rd Nov 2024 10:22am |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 575 
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The expansion tank cap has been replaced according to the post..
One way of establishing a head gasket failure into the coolant space is to use a scope with either a pulse sensor or a pressure transducer.. Connect the tube to the expansion tank in such a way as it doesn't suffer vibrational movement if you are using the pulse sensor.. If there is a leakage you will see it on the trace as a rhythmic rise in pressure , and if you use an injector as a cylinder reference you can even tell which cylinder is responsible.👍 |
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3rd Nov 2024 1:29pm |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 41  
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Thanks for the replies.
Yes, the cap is only two month old and it has not leaked until this week. Worth a try with another one I guess. The pulse sensor sounds nice but not in my tool box at the moment. Will keep it in mind if/when I consult with a workshop. If the release valve in the cap is working as it should, would excess pressure still result in the leaks that I am seeing? Or would the gas just be released to the atmosphere? |
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3rd Nov 2024 2:58pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2084
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A faulty EGR cooler can let exhaust gasses into the coolant and pressurise the system. You could temporarily remove the two hoses from the EGR cooler, join them together, then run engine to see if the issue is rectified.
Noting a failed EGR cooler is a rare occurrence on a 2.4. |
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3rd Nov 2024 3:31pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2436  
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Have you consider a combustion leak test? As well you could use a camera and check for bubbles coming into the expansion tank. Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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3rd Nov 2024 3:34pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 575
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Hi Ian... can a leaking egr cooler pressures the cooling system.. the exhaust gas manifold pressure is always tending towards atmospheric pressure with small pulses.. well below the pressure of the coolant on a running engine so how will it add pressure to the coolant system?
I can see gas been drawn into the coolant as things cool possibly.. And back to the op.. if the header tank cap keeps venting due to high pressure then it will carry coolant with it as it opens..Just like you get an eruption of coolant when you crack a cap on a pressurised system i imagine.... |
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3rd Nov 2024 3:53pm |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 41
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I was thinking CO2 test to begin with, if that is negative and problem persist a cylinder compression test. Am I right in avoiding pressure testing the cooling system if there is a risk of leakage into a cylinder?
Regarding the EGR cooler, I was hoping to take it out of the equation as I fail to see how it can pressurise the cooling system. If it is easy enough to bypass the cooler I’ll try that too. Thanks for the advices so far! |
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3rd Nov 2024 7:24pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2436
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Well, I guess you will get a + with the CO test being the source either from EGR cooler or blown gasket/crack head. So the best it would be to start by bypassing the EGR cooler as mentioned. I would be careful to make those hose connection quite safe not run out of coolant. Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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3rd Nov 2024 7:43pm |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 41
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Just want to add some notes for future reference.
Too many other problems got in the way so the issue with coolant was down prioritized. I did change the outlet elbow seal which stopped that leak. Coolant level dropped initially and was visibly ejected through the cap. However it did seem to stabilize so I left it at that. I've now done 7000 km and the level is still 1 cm below Cold level. Today I found this thread: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic44373...ed59fb52f3 It suggest that more people have experienced a loss of coolant but only after topping up and that it then settle on a level right below the Cold level. So my experience of loosing 0,5-1 l every 200 km was possibly due to that I kept topping up every time I saw that the level was reduced and then the car kept ejecting it. I will probably try the Iveco cap. It would be nice to be able to have the correct amount of coolant in the system.  |
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13th Jan 2025 2:03pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20529
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It might pay you to drain it, and replace the coolant and follow the bleed procedure.
It could be there was possibly a wrong mixture out in if it was concentrate, I could be very old, even though OAT Coolant typically has a very long life. It might have an air lock, which was there, or has developed that needs bleeding. A small leak can cause issues, in my experience check the coolant pump, I’ve had a couple leak from the gasket between the casings, and this can happen after freezing weather so it is that what can cause that. I expect a lot of expansion and contraction due to temperature extremes. I would sort of think of the head gasket as being the final frontier if all of the above and replacement cap doesn’t work out, but you can look into that. There is a WSM bleed procedure for replacing the coolant, it’s there for a reason. Also some people use concentrate coolant, others use pre mixed. I use the latter, it’s a bit more cost, but it’s ready to go, and you don’t want tap water in there except a flush though at very low pressure. You can add distilled water to concentrate though if you wanted that. Like the washer fluid, I tend to use just pre mixed as it’s just easier, properly mixed to spec, faster, fill and job done. Everyone does things different though, there are different choices you can make. Hope there is possibly some suggestions to help for you.  No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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13th Jan 2025 3:20pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 575
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It's good to get a report back on a thread that someone has posted an issue on.. I have noticed that my coolant level always seems to settle and stabilise at a level that seems just a bit low to me , but after a few years of ownership I've come to accept that's ok... I did fit a coolant level alarm into the system so that has helped set my mind at ease 👍 |
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13th Jan 2025 4:56pm |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 189  
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Can you share details with which seal you replaced the front elbow seal with, since as far as I’m aware the seal is not available separately and you need to order the full elbow assembly ?
/Mat |
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13th Jan 2025 6:56pm |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 41
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@custom90: Thanks for the advice. For now though, I treat this as a non-issue since the level has been stable for 7000 km. After the initial loss during the first days since I last drained and refilled, nothing has been lost. Coolant is new and I used a pre-mix. WSM bleeding procedure followed. What I never achieved was to get coolant flowing out of the bleed screw at the heater valve. That is not stated in the WSM either as I remember but I thought it would be nice. Heater works as it should and no other abnormalities (related to cooling that is).
@MattLandy: I found the info on the forum: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic87592.html When searching for the Ford P/N 1098190 I found this: https://www.skruvat.se/Packning-termostat-P1820800.aspx It's only €3, not sure if they ship to France but should still be less than the complete elbow assy. |
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13th Jan 2025 7:48pm |
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| stichill99 Member Since: 16 Jul 2024 Location: Scottish Borders Posts: 9
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We had a split egr cooler on a 2.2 tdci and it definitely can pressurise the system!
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15th Jan 2025 9:45pm |
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