ppad wrote:

My 05 90 hasn't had steering work in the 11 yrs I've had it.
Now, it's like my old Series III, lots of play and after some recent Dorset rutted lanes maybe not quite straight. Generally wobbly in summary.
So, being +70 yrs old mostly that sort of work is done by the same local that I've used for 10 yrs.
And, he said go look at Gwyn Lewis web site and pick a beefier kit, he'll fit it.

But, I need to ask the forum first. Have yoiu bought from these folk? What would be a good kit for a better than new precise steering? And, what's likely to be worn anyway? Thks.

Chicken Drumstick wrote:

ppad wrote:

My 05 90 hasn't had steering work in the 11 yrs I've had it.
Now, it's like my old Series III, lots of play and after some recent Dorset rutted lanes maybe not quite straight. Generally wobbly in summary.
So, being +70 yrs old mostly that sort of work is done by the same local that I've used for 10 yrs.
And, he said go look at Gwyn Lewis web site and pick a beefier kit, he'll fit it.

But, I need to ask the forum first. Have yoiu bought from these folk? What would be a good kit for a better than new precise steering? And, what's likely to be worn anyway? Thks.

Gwyn Lewis sells some good stuff.

However non of these upgrade will make the steering more precise. Other than you’d be replacing old with new parts. At the end of the day it is a live axle 4x4 with a steering box and the front axle is isolated from the chassis by 6 large rubber bushes. It’ll never be precise.

Sumo bars are pricey…. But there are cheaper options and it only really matters if you have bent the standard ones. Most people only bend them doing competition work. Which is why the heavy duty ones were developed. Normal road driving and laning should cause no issues.

Good quality ball joints last longer. But I’d not believe anyone who’d claim to tell the difference between new ones from the drivers seat. Any new one will be fine.

Swapping to the Disco style arm is more a maintenance thing than anything else. As you need to tool to change it and it is more work. But no steering advantages otherwise.

If you have play in you steering I’d firstly check all of your ball joints. If the steering wheel has moved position then it must be a bent track/drag bar. Lots of play and need to correct going down the road sounds more like a worn steering box.

bankz5152 wrote:

You say that! Bent my rear track rod on a pot hole!!

landy andy wrote:

Agree with above.
My best mate got some Gwyn Lewis “type” steering bars for his D2. A couple of months later noticed a couple of the joints and many of the boots have failed. After months of trying he has to give in and by GL full kit as no one can source the ball joints on his copy parts. Different threads to standard.

landy andy wrote:

Each to their own.

My understanding is that Gwyn’s are a higher quality steel, the ball joints are the best he can source, and have a thicker neck on the joint, and they have been upgraded to poly boots. They are made by someone not just mass produced by a machine, you can talk to the block who came up with the idea, they are made in the UK not China, you will always get support should it be needed. They come with pages of info/help/procedures

But in the end, I’m very happy to buy from someone I know, and trust. Knowing I’m supporting a UK company and a man who is developing new items to improve my Defender.