 | Home > Modifications & Maintenance (L663) > Mirror Clearsight retrofit |
 
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| Jnhconsulting93 Member Since: 01 Mar 2024 Location: Drancy Posts: 3  
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Ah ok Big Thank u marco for your feedback. 🙏🙏🙏I worry the retrofit it’s not compatible now i sure it’s ok. Just modified on hardware.. one thousand thank you marco for the tutorial…
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2nd Mar 2024 2:22pm |
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| ThunderBob Member Since: 23 May 2024 Location: Kentucky Posts: 9 
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After studying Marco’s (mmbaf) guide and getting all the required part numbers from Ian (Hairy Dan) I assembled all the required parts and cables. I studied the videos from Powerful UK and decided today was the day. It as an easy project! First I removed the rear view mirror. Always a little scary the first time you do it. But it came off without a hitch. Next I removed the roof lights console, one of the back seat courtesy lights, and finally the rear trim piece at the tailgate so that I could get access to the antenna. I fed the Land Rover repair cable through the light console to the mirror opening (I fed it from the side of the console and it curved over to the mirror opening quite nicely). I then attached the 3 meter aerial extension cable to an electrician’s “fish” tape and sent it to the courtesy light opening from the rear of the vehicle. I pulled the cable out of the courtesy light hole enough to remove the fish tape. I then inserted the fish tape through the roof light console opening towards the courtesy light opening. I attached the extension cable to the fish and then pulled it back to the roof light console. I connected it the Land Rover repair cable. I went back to the rear of the vehicle and began removing the existing antenna. This was the most difficult part of the project for me. There is limited space in which to work and I had an awful time disconnecting the Fakra cables from old antenna. After about 30 minutes fiddling with it, I was finally able to remove the old antenna and replace it with the new Clearsight antenna. Attaching the Fakra cables is a lot easier the disconnecting them! I moved back to the driver’s seat and attached the cables to the mirror and the mirror to the vehicle. The mirror turned on as soon as I connected the cables. I then coiled up the excess cable, secured it with tape and tucked it up in the headliner. There was a lot of excess cable. I probably could have gotten by with a much shorter cable for my 90. I installed the light console, the courtesy light and the trim at the rear of the Defender. Please note you will need to replace the headliner rear clip (LR091317) as it will break when you access the antenna. After putting my tools away and cleaning up, I broke out the GAP tool and changed MultiCAN 711 to SVRM with Homelink After that was completed I programmed the Homelink to my garage door and then I called it a day, Total time 3 hours. Skill level is about a 2 out of 5. Don’t be afraid to do it.
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13th Jun 2024 5:12am |
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| Moo Member Since: 01 Oct 2021 Location: UK Posts: 1305 
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Cool. Nice job.
I'm still unsure though. So far it's not something I've missed. Eiger Grey MY23 D250 SE with bits. Known as Noddy. |
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13th Jun 2024 9:12am |
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| The_75th Member Since: 28 Apr 2023 Location: Devon Posts: 26 
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Just to add to this - I didn't use the LR Repair cable. I used the following:
Extension cable lead 3M male Fakra - Fakra female CT27AA118 - ÂŁ10.95 Fakra aerial adapter 35cm female to female car radio antenna extension CT27AA150 - ÂŁ8.79 The camera was from a Discovery Sport @ÂŁ99.99, I can confirm that it fits and works. The mirror was the most expensive part at ÂŁ225. So all in all: <ÂŁ350 |
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25th Jul 2024 8:55pm |
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| starbai Member Since: 20 Jun 2023 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 19
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Bucks did you use a mirror WITH homelink garage door opener buttons? If so, could you share the part number of the mirror? |
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25th Jul 2024 9:17pm |
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| ThunderBob Member Since: 23 May 2024 Location: Kentucky Posts: 9
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The part number is LR140340.
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26th Jul 2024 1:15pm |
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| proscoe33 Member Since: 01 Aug 2024 Location: Philadelphia Posts: 7
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Thank you so much for putting this info out there as I have always been wondering if this can be done. I am now on my 4th Defender (2 - 110s, 1 - 90, and now most recently a 130) After having my 130 for over a month now it is clear that the Clearsight Mirror is beneficial and I am going to make this upgrade. I have already started collecting the parts and have taken apart 3 other Defenders I am confident I can get everything installed with no issue. What I am not confident in and could use some help with is the scanner tool update side of this process. I was wondering if anyone could provide a bit more detail about this process and more importantly if anyone has any ideas on where to rent or barrow a scan tool. I am in the Philadelphia area and do not mind driving some distance if someone is will to help. Any thoughts would be greatly apprecaited as obviously my dealer is not going to touch it. Thanks in advance and I will let everyone know how the 130 goes as it should be fun routing past 2 sunroofs
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1st Aug 2024 2:01pm |
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| Defendit.. Member Since: 09 Aug 2020 Location: 's-Hertogenbosch Posts: 411 
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@ThunderBob
Headlinerclip procedure from workshop manual  Click image to enlarge No Mud flaps for my 90.! ----------------------------------------- P300 S MY21 on air, adv.+ offroad pack, DRL+fog, Dinamica Suedecloth + Ebony headliner/Cross Beam- Many Mods.. |
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1st Aug 2024 10:22pm |
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| ThunderBob Member Since: 23 May 2024 Location: Kentucky Posts: 9
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@proscoe33
Welcome to the forum! I retrofitted my clearsight mirror not too long ago. You can go ahead and install your mirror without updating your CCF files and it will work! You can then use your mirror until you can find someone to update your CCF files. I believe the CCF change allows the mirror to adjust the view (up and down) and adjust the contrast. You may wish to budget for a GAP IID tool and do the CCF changes yourself. |
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1st Aug 2024 11:05pm |
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| dgm130 Member Since: 21 Apr 2024 Location: Saskatoon Posts: 2 
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bucks405 - I have a 130 as well and can you tell me which cables you used? I see two different LR repair cables in this thread. |
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2nd Aug 2024 4:04am |
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| proscoe33 Member Since: 01 Aug 2024 Location: Philadelphia Posts: 7
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Thanks for the welcome! Super excited to be here and am not sure why I didnt join sooner. I was lucky enough to receive one of the first 110s to arrive in the US when they first landed and have dug through 4 now in depth at this point. Once this project is done, I want to figure out how to add the cooler box. |
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2nd Aug 2024 3:03pm |
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| proscoe33 Member Since: 01 Aug 2024 Location: Philadelphia Posts: 7
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Finally had a chance to complete this upgrade today on a 2024 130 and everything went relatively smoothly. I ordered LR repair wire LR164584 and 3m Fakra cable here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M7TG6V2?psc=1...ct_details
Definitely ended up with more than enough as the Fakra cable alone reached the antenna. I ended up spooling the repair wire and stashing in the headliner near the antenna. Routing to the mirror from the overhead opening was the easiest part and I then used the BT microphone hole, then the front passenger reading light, then the second row reading light and barrier mount, and lastly the third row middle seat chest belt. Probably more than I needed but made for nice routing to avoid any inference with the sunroof. Tried to save the yellow headliner clip but as everyone mentioned its disposable and breaks no matter what you do. I alos did not need to remove the rear gate weather seal like Powerful UK mentioned as the plastic headliner cover was removed easily by just pulling back the small rubber lip.
Unplugging the old antenna connections was the hardest part for me as the 3rd row seat belt adds a bit of hardware in that area which I do not believe is on the smaller models. Rest was easy peezy. Only thing I would do differently next time would be to run it down the drivers side versus the passenger to avoid the third row seat belt. Now with the bigger issue I am hoping someone can chime in on. When I plugged in the mirror to my amazement everything was working, all mirror controls ect which left me confused as I thought it required a CFF change. That said, the minute i flipped on the mirror again the whole displayed image shifted down just a little leaving a gap in the screen display on the top and the icons on the bottom of the image cut off just a little. Super odd and I watched it happen. I did end up buying a Gap Gen 4, Thanks Lucky8! so maybe I do need to check the file and potentially re install it? Any thoughts would be appreciated! |
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16th Aug 2024 8:01pm |
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| B3e4u2nv Member Since: 03 Oct 2024 Location: London Posts: 3 
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Hi all,
I have been following this thread for a while and finally got all the parts for the retrofit. Thank you all for the information posted on this thread. Thank god for forums! lol. Anyhow, I have completed the retrofit by following what Marco has posted. After installing and connecting everything, nothing comes up on the display. Is it because it hasn’t been coded in? (Only reason why I ask is because I read that other users have done the retrofit without coding and it has turned on). Also my previous mirror only has 6 connector pins just like the harness only has 6, on the clearsight mirror it has 8 connector pins. (However I have read Marco said that they are not needed and maybe extra features, as the connectors are generic.) If anyone can advise I’ll really appreciate it. Thanks. B3E [/b] |
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3rd Oct 2024 5:28pm |
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| mmbanf Member Since: 16 Mar 2021 Location: Milano Posts: 158 
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hello B3E,
many car systems connected to can-bus systems do not turn on if they do not have the correct code on the bus line. The retrofit is 100% only plug and play, the connector does not require any modification, do you have a way to change the ccf? Otherwise you have to find a friend of the forum who with the gap and an upgrade on a new vin, can do the coding for you. marco |
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3rd Oct 2024 8:50pm |
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