 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Engine, Gearbox & Transfer Box Oil Change |
 
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2638   
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IIRC, 2.4L is for the initial fill, 2.2L for a refill, as you can't get all of the oil out. --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged 
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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12th May 2024 6:38am |
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| Yannis Member Since: 02 Feb 2015 Location: Oxfordshire / Milan Posts: 408  
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That’s what I thought, but a few pages back people seemed to be using the 2.4L every fill…
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12th May 2024 6:40am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1999
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For the 2.4 the owners manual states 2.2litres for a drain and refill, however in the 2.2 owners manual it states 2.4litres for the drain and refill. Given it’s the same MT82 gearbox at what I expect is the very same angle for the 2.2 or 2.4 this is a bit of an enigma.
So did LR decide that an additional 200ml was better when they launched the 2.2, or did the authors of the users manual get it wrong on the 2.4 or 2.2 users manual. Who is to know ! From personal experience I was the first to drain my 2.2 gearbox, and because of the above decided to measure the volume of oil that came out. It was 2.4Litres so I put 2.4litres of fresh oil back in. Gear changes have always been easy and smooth before and after oil changes and to date I have not had any leaks. See page 10 of this same topic |
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12th May 2024 10:45am |
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| piechipsandpeas Member Since: 12 May 2021 Location: Albany, Western Australia Posts: 209  
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Just to add a bit of confusion.
Here's a shot of my 2013 owner's manual (2.4L for a refill) Click image to enlarge and a screenshot of the 2011 WSM (2.2L for a refill) Click image to enlarge I have a feeling it might not really matter. |
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12th May 2024 11:01am |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 735  
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Locally, I found fully synthetic 75W-90 gear oil that meets API GL-5 and MT-1 quality levels and approvals. This good for our differentials and Transfer case?
From same manufacturer, fully synthetic 5W-30 with API CJ-4, ACEA E9 quality levels and approvals. Good for engine? Ford rated oils are difficult and expensive so I'm trying to find locally available oils to make maintenance easier and cheaper. By the way, since I'm currently situated in the Asia Pacific region, this being the case, will a 5W-40 engine oil work better for me? |
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13th May 2024 2:15am |
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| Ngala Member Since: 26 Oct 2020 Location: Germany Posts: 5 |
I am now confused. Why would a 2013’Manual stipulate a 2.4L. From 2011 they made the 2.2 only? I need to change my 2.4 oil too soon…..😵💫 |
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31st May 2024 6:56pm |
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