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Inguz



Member Since: 06 Sep 2020
Location: In the wild
Posts: 101

Loud clacking and smoke
I’ve developed a very worrying sound. Car was driving fine, then the check engine light was coming on and off for one day. I wrote it off to a bad earth as the temp gauge was also fluctuating.

I went to start the car today and got a horrible loud noise from what appears to be the top end. There is also excessive white smoke.I put a new AMC head about 10k ago and drove fine until yesterday.

I didn’t run the car for more than a few seconds with this noise. I’ll have time next week to look into but if anyone has any insight or ideas in the meantime I’d be most grateful.
Post #1028493 18th Mar 2024 3:39pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
As a starter for 10 I would take off the valve cover and check that all is as it should be. Pay attention to the rockers/valves and if the timing chain is still tensioned.

Good luck Thumbs Up
Post #1028506 18th Mar 2024 5:12pm
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Inguz



Member Since: 06 Sep 2020
Location: In the wild
Posts: 101

Took the cover off this morning and found one of the guide rails is cracked. I'm guessing this is the problem, or least I hope it's nothing more serious. I will swap it out and may do the chain while I'm at it. I see mixed reports that the chains don't need to be done and they should be done at 200k. Anyone have any more info on this?
Post #1028595 19th Mar 2024 7:31am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
Bingo mate... Thumbs Up Right, since the rocker arm has broken that suggests something has applied a lot of force on it. As a minimum I would be removing the injectors and using an endoscope to check the pistons and valves. You can pick them up pretty cheaply, but just make sure you get one that will fit into through the injector hole first. Failing that it should be a head removal to check the pistons and valves. I hate to say it but I wouldn't be surprised if one or more pistons have impacted on the valves. It will be very very obvious if this is the case.

As to the timing chain, it is dealers choice. As you have found some say yes some say no. If in doubt inspect it and the guides for wear and replace as necessary. My TD5 has well over 200k miles and the guides and chain are in fine fettle, but others with less than 100k miles may have had premature failures.

Sorry for your troubles... But it is best to thoroughly examine the engine for damage before throwing parts at it.
Post #1028598 19th Mar 2024 8:18am
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Inguz



Member Since: 06 Sep 2020
Location: In the wild
Posts: 101

The rocker arms are fine, I meant one of the timing chain guide rails is broken, most likely from just wear.

I've ordered a new one and hope to fit it without removing the head or sump.
Post #1028614 19th Mar 2024 9:43am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
Ah ok well that would also make a lot of noise. IIRC there was so early TD5s that suffered from timing chain guide failure. Just one warning though, check the timing marks are in the correct position when you install the new chain and guides. Also, check that the engine turns over by hand cleanly before starting it for the first time. Thumbs Up
Post #1028636 19th Mar 2024 1:31pm
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Inguz



Member Since: 06 Sep 2020
Location: In the wild
Posts: 101

I’m almost done with taking the timing chain cover off. I’ve got the stump off but the long bolt on the cover the goes into the head is preventing me from finishing the job.

It’s looking like I have to remove the head, which I don’t want to do. I seen a few reports of people doing this without removing the head, does anyone know how? Can that bolt be removed?

Click image to enlarge
Post #1029043 23rd Mar 2024 9:15am
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Inguz



Member Since: 06 Sep 2020
Location: In the wild
Posts: 101

Answering my own question here for future viewers. I looked on LR Workshop and the part number shows a double threaded bolt.
Post #1029048 23rd Mar 2024 9:36am
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1081

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
A double threaded bolt? AKA a stud?
Post #1029096 23rd Mar 2024 6:44pm
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Inguz



Member Since: 06 Sep 2020
Location: In the wild
Posts: 101

Yes a stud
Post #1029119 24th Mar 2024 4:39am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17441

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I was given a box of large socket head capscrews some years ago, surplus to requirements, which turned out to be genuinely double-threaded, - they had twin-start threads. I have no idea what they were bought/made for.

They only use as far as I can tell are for practical jokes.
Post #1029129 24th Mar 2024 9:41am
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sasdiscos



Member Since: 22 Jul 2023
Location: UK
Posts: 151

 
Some masonry bolts are double threaded. Direct into concrete.
Post #1029137 24th Mar 2024 11:10am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17441

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Indeed. What makes my SHC unusual is that they have conventional thread forms, so the pitch, profile and dimensions match conventional single start threads, but being twin start no conventional nuts fit them (I can't offhand remember the size, but they are big, something like M20). They are very strange, and I really cannot imagine what they were made for. They must have cost someone quite a packet, but are now useless except as novelty items.

It took me quite a while to work out why nuts didn't fit!
Post #1029139 24th Mar 2024 11:47am
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