 | Home > Td5 > Steering wobble and suspension ideas |
 
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| markb110 Member Since: 22 May 2010 Location: Guildford Posts: 2643   
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Steering wobble for me a couple of years back in that speed range you mentioned was the swivel pins.
At the same time i had the Gwyn Lewis drop arm kit installed. Both of which really tighten up the steering . I don't use anti roll bars, and it sounds like you want the polar opposite to my suspension set up so hopefully someone else can help you with that. Hope that helps in some way. |
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19th Mar 2024 9:04pm |
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| 110Matty Member Since: 20 Apr 2023 Location: Somerset Posts: 129 
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Thanks, I heard good things about Glyn Lewis. My problem, as a novice, means I could change every joint, bush etc chasing simple enough faults. Thinking of going to a specialist for a once over. I’m looking for recommendations for local specialists to me in Somerset (ideally central county) but not essential if good value. Cheers.
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19th Mar 2024 9:12pm |
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| MarkBrown Member Since: 03 Oct 2022 Location: Mid Wales Posts: 474  
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Second the swivel pins, 45 to 55. Shook sone then drove through it, worse on corners and over bumps.
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19th Mar 2024 9:14pm |
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| 110Matty Member Since: 20 Apr 2023 Location: Somerset Posts: 129
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Sounds like a good place to start. Is it a DIY fix or at least diagnose?
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19th Mar 2024 9:27pm |
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| andylee Member Since: 29 Jun 2016 Location: South East Posts: 94
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I have recently updated all my shocks to Old Man Emu and including the steering damper and replaced the springs with OEM standard factory ones (pricy but worth it) as they were sagging. I wouldn’t describe the ride as softer as its fairly choppy over pot holes and speed bumps as its a 90 but it sits firmly planted to the road and corners without much lean but I do also have front and rear roll bars as its a CSW. Overall the handling and ride is joyfull and so much improved than before.
From 4x4 works M01SU10394A Old Man Emu 60037 OME Nitrocharger Sport Shock Absorber OM01SU10395A Old Man Emu 60038 OME Nitrocharger Sport Shock Absorber From Rimmer Bros for 90 CSW NRC9447 - COIL SPRING GENUINE NRC9448 - COIL SPRING GENUINE NRC9449 - COIL SPRING GENUINE NRC9446 - COIL SPRING GENUINE |
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20th Mar 2024 9:57am |
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| 110Matty Member Since: 20 Apr 2023 Location: Somerset Posts: 129
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Thanks Andy, very useful.
I've had a quick look underneath and although it's a bit mucky, i could see at least one of the shocks was Monroe and all the springs were black. Having quickly googled it and seeing the prices, it looks as though they are at the lower end of quality, not wishing to do them down, i'm sure they are perfectly functional, but it might explain some of my feelings about my set up and characteristics? Another vote for OME, thank you. |
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20th Mar 2024 10:13am |
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| andylee Member Since: 29 Jun 2016 Location: South East Posts: 94
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No problem, I did a lot of research before committing so am aware of just how much conflicting information is available.
Just to add, when you do re doo your suspension I would recommend replacing the front Turrets with galvanised uprated parts and stainless/galv spring mounting hardware all available from YRM or Gwyn Lewis. |
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20th Mar 2024 11:44am |
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| Chris86 Member Since: 15 Jul 2014 Location: South Yorks Posts: 789 
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Do the easy things first.
- Are you 100% certain that your tyres are balanced well and wheels not buckled tyres bulged etc- if not get them balanced or borrow a set of wheels from someone see if it resolves the issue. - If the Ball joints have play- just replace, they are cheap and relatively easy to do. If the above doesn't resolve the issue, First port of call for me would be the swivels, followed by the panhard rod bushes. Chris |
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20th Mar 2024 2:34pm |
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| Chicken Drumstick Member Since: 17 Aug 2020 Location: Near MK Posts: 751
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What sort of wheels/tyres are you running? big offset and fat large tyres can make things worse, although should be fine with everything in good condition. The pitman arm drop link ball joint is a likely cause, or the swivels. But check all the ball joints. Mostly this is all simple maintenance. But certainly worth checking your wheels are balanced too. As for suspension upgrades. This depends on a lot. Softer springs will ride better, but carry less. Good damping is also important. You can also look at changing the bushes. Polybush (the brand) offer a 'comfort' grade of bush replacement. Do you have a 90 or 110? Suspension will always be a compromise. Softer will mean more roll and wollow in the corners. Early Range Rovers are lightly sprung compared to a Ninety, despite being a bigger heavier vehicle. But this allows them to ride softer. But they are known for a lot of lean in the corners and used a self levelling unit on the rear to allow them to haul and tow safely. |
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20th Mar 2024 3:39pm |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 940  
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Strongly recommend OE or genuine springs for a smoother ride. I also chose to isolate the springs using the Disco 2 upper spring isolator instead of the steel Defender one. I also used the older Disco 1 isolator on the bottom of the front springs . The rear on a 110 are larger diameter and the Toyota Tacoma rear spring isolators fit to isolate the rear springs.
All this really smooths the ride of a 110 CSW. Same effect could be a achieved on a 90 using the Disco one front spring isolator top and bottom on rear springs. Also for a really smooth ride consider RRC springs. Consider checking panhard rod bushes for your wobble. There should be zero play or movement. Also radius arm bushes wear with higher mileage and are hard to assess. There should also be zero movement. Good luck Springs resource and detailed information 👇🏻 http://www.red90.ca/rovers/springinfo.html D2 spring isolator RBC100111 D1 spring isolator ANR2938 poly isolator for front springs 110 & 90 👇🏻 https://expeditionexchange.com/shop-all-pr...-ome80pf10 110 rear spring isolator👇🏻 https://expeditionexchange.com/shop-all-pr...-ome80pr10 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris) 2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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20th Mar 2024 4:22pm |
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| 110Matty Member Since: 20 Apr 2023 Location: Somerset Posts: 129
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Hi, despite my name tag it’s a 90 so I know as a short wheelbase, the ride would be compromised by design. The alloys are KN Predators fitted with Cooper Discoverer ST Pro’s (265/80/r17). I’ll hardly be towing, so comfort is more important than load lugging capability/stability. If I do go for new springs / shocks / bushes as a comfort set up, would anti-roll bars help with controlling the lean? I’m thinking of having all joints and pins etc checked / replaced also. |
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20th Mar 2024 7:43pm |
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| 110Matty Member Since: 20 Apr 2023 Location: Somerset Posts: 129
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 Click image to enlarge |
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20th Mar 2024 7:44pm |
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| 110Matty Member Since: 20 Apr 2023 Location: Somerset Posts: 129
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Thanks Chris, I’m not at all sure if the wheels / tyres are balanced, I’m still fixated on the excessive play in the steering shaft meeting the steering box. The uj’s seem ok to me at first glance, but the entire shaft rotates several degrees in the steering box and at the other end at the other side of the uppermost uj. It doesn’t seem right and I thought it was the obvious place to start, but didn’t want to mess around too much if it’s normal for there to be such play. |
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20th Mar 2024 7:52pm |
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| 110Matty Member Since: 20 Apr 2023 Location: Somerset Posts: 129
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Other thing of note, all tyre pressures were around 28 psi, I guess they were set a while ago, all at 30? I’ve read 30 for the fronts and 35 on the rears (when running light).
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20th Mar 2024 8:07pm |
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