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AndreB

Member Since: 23 Jan 2021
Location: Brielle
Posts: 11

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Galway Green

I Found it

I found it behind the instrument panel

Had:
Defender 90 TD5 2001 - 225.000 km
Defender 110 TD5 - 2000 - 120.000
Have:
Defender 90 Puma 2.4 2010 - 211.000 km
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/landrover_diary/

10th Jul 2023 9:45am

AndreB

Member Since: 23 Jan 2021
Location: Brielle
Posts: 11

Find it

Hello guys,

I experienced the same issue bu cranking and not starting. I want to try the solution with the shunt, i removed the connector but I am lost...
How can I identify the pins 2-3 ? Do I need to open up the connector?

Sorry but my technical knowledge is below average

Had:
Defender 90 TD5 2001 - 225.000 km
Defender 110 TD5 - 2000 - 120.000
Have:
Defender 90 Puma 2.4 2010 - 211.000 km
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/landrover_diary/

10th Jul 2023 10:16am

AndreB

Member Since: 23 Jan 2021
Location: Brielle
Posts: 11

Find it

I found the pins, now figuring out the shunt

Had:
Defender 90 TD5 2001 - 225.000 km
Defender 110 TD5 - 2000 - 120.000
Have:
Defender 90 Puma 2.4 2010 - 211.000 km
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/landrover_diary/

10th Jul 2023 11:06am

Landypuma

Member Since: 25 Oct 2023
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 3

2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black

Another Non Starting Puma!

Hey All; first time posting long time fixing! Bit of a fun issue drives me to the community!

So I have just had the same problem on my 08 2.4 Puma; was starting perfectly fine for months and then one random day (after the recent storm Babet!) my poor defender wouldn’t start. Tried all sorts to fix even bought a nanocomm to find out what codes were appearing! Through a process of elimination I checked the following:

1. Checked the Battery Voltage
2. Disconnected for 1 hour to clear down ECU
3. Checked and Reseated the Fuses
4. Checked and Reseated all the Relays
5. Checked the ignition barrel switch connections
6. Bought a Nanocomm
7. Checked all the 10AS configs
8. Resynced the ECU/10AS
9. All the DTCs pointed to Glowplug Relays

The symptoms definitely pointed to electrical as the engine would crank, fire and then die; the rev counter jumped on ignition then returned to 0. If you then tried the ignition again you would get nothing the only way to get the car to crank again was by locking and unlocking the central locking.

Long and short of it I landed on this thread and tried the pin 3 & 4 shunt with the speedo removed.

The puma starts first time; so it’s obviously the broken link within the speedo; I know i could cut the loom side wires and join them together to bypass however would like to avoid if possible.

So my questions i’m hoping for some help on:

1. Can you replace the whole speedo and dials with another second hand unit from another Puma or are they coded to the ECU / 10AS
2. If they are does anyone know of a decent repair service in the UK that can repair the broken circuit on the speedo board

Heres a photo of the “shunt” which allows the defender to start; and prove its nothing mechanical!

Click image to enlarge

1st Nov 2023 4:08pm

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1989

Martin, site owner can repair your Instrument cluster, just pm him.
https://www.defender2.net/forum/member-martin.html

Re changing over to another used instrument cluster, it can be done but requires a lot of work on saving data , eeprom replacement and programming etc to get mileage set correctly.

So far cheaper to get current one fixed by Martin.

1st Nov 2023 5:21pm

Landypuma

Member Since: 25 Oct 2023
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 3

Awesome I did think that is probably the case thank you I shall PM him directly.

1st Nov 2023 5:33pm

Landypuma

Member Since: 25 Oct 2023
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 3

Apparently you need to have posted 3 times to do direct messages so heres’s a third post just for fun! 🤪

1st Nov 2023 5:35pm

xmotor

Member Since: 17 Jan 2024
Location: la balme de sillingy
Posts: 19

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Barolo Black

Martin wrote:
If the rpm needle moves during cranking it probably isn’t the crank sensor.

The "shunt" is actually a bypass of the wiring of the immobiliser comms link through the instrument pack.

Land Rover did this themselves when the 2.2 was introduced.

You need to access the instrument pack connector, remove it and make a temporary link between pins 3 and 4 with the likes of a straightened out plain metal paper clip.

If it now fires, your problem is the immobiliser link and you have two options:

Send the instrument pack for repair of the soldering of the socket to the PCB (I can do this for you through my business) - or do it yourself if capable

Alternatively dismantle the connector and remove pins 3 and 4 (light green and grey wires to both) and join them permanently. Or if you like, cut the light green and grey wires where they enter the connector and join the loom sides together permanently, bypassing the cluster.

This makes the comms link between the 10AS alarm/immobiliser and the ECU a single wire without the instrument pack in the circuit (as per the 2.2).

The instrument pack will now log a fault if diagnosed as it does not see an incoming signal from the immobiliser, but this does not affect the instrument pack or vehicle operation whatsoever.

Also I feel this is NOT a security issue as the immobiliser itself is not bypassed, and this factory design of "in and out" wiring via the instrument pack only means that the engine won’t start if the instrument pack is missing.

However a missing instrument pack would be no problem for a thief as bridging 3 and 4 (on the now easily accessible connector) restores the link, which is clear from the wiring diagrams.

I fixed a 2010MY basic spec Puma with this issue last week. It would crank, and the RPM needle moved, but an signal tester showed the ECU wasn’t firing the injectors at all. Bridging 3 and 4 allowed it to start straight away

Hello Martin,

I made your modification on my defender 2.4 TD4 which won't start. But the result is worse. It still won't start and I don't have the engine light and warm-up light anymore.

I replaced the engine of the defender 2.4 TD4. New injectors, new spark plugs, etc...
When it's time to start it, I plug the battery back in and turn on the ignition. The engine starts to run. I stop right away because the oil pump is not primed. I disconnect the 30A fuse under the passenger seat. And I start priming the oil pump to the starter. Once the oil pump is primed, I put the fuse back on and it won't start. I don't know to do.

31st Jan 2024 4:17pm

xmotor

Member Since: 17 Jan 2024
Location: la balme de sillingy
Posts: 19

Sorry for the previous post. I had forgotten to put fuses back on. So that's OK but it still won't start. Is there a technique to purge the injectors?

what should be the pressure from the injection pump to the starter motor (non-rotating engine). I have 130 MPa. I think that's too much?

Thanks for your help

Olivier

31st Jan 2024 5:35pm

xmotor

Member Since: 17 Jan 2024
Location: la balme de sillingy
Posts: 19

Hello
I still haven't been able to start my defender 2.4 TD4.
Do we still have the DTC 1602-31 at the nanocom when we shint pins 3 and 4?
My courtesy lamp works, as does the remote control but I think there are air bubbles in the injectors.
I brought in the fuel with the special tool. I unhook the tool and try to start but the engine won't start

2nd Mar 2024 11:32am

Jerrydi

Member Since: 08 Mar 2024
Location: Tidworth
Posts: 1

I have this same problem. My puma start and immediately cut out, the alarm light keep flashing and the fob doesn't seem to respond

8th Mar 2024 1:46pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20300

New battery in the fob, press it multiple times fast to sync it.

Does it then work? ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️

8th Mar 2024 6:31pm

xmotor

Member Since: 17 Jan 2024
Location: la balme de sillingy
Posts: 19

xmotor wrote:
Hello
I still haven't been able to start my defender 2.4 TD4.
Do we still have the DTC 1602-31 at the nanocom when we shint pins 3 and 4?
My courtesy lamp works, as does the remote control but I think there are air bubbles in the injectors.
I brought in the fuel with the special tool. I unhook the tool and try to start but the engine won't start

Hello,

How to do to synchronise ECM ans AS10 via nanocom?
I still don't have an injector control. Is it the AS10 that's blocking?
Thanks for your help

8th Mar 2024 10:15pm

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1989

I explained how to do it 4 days ago with my last post on your original topic on the subject https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic90991.html

On the Nanocom it’s called EMS resync and I believe it is the last option on the menu once you have selected defender, Puma, defender Puma 2.4.

see the Nanocom emulator for details https://emulator.nanocom-diagnostics.com/

8th Mar 2024 10:26pm

jeremy1

Member Since: 08 Mar 2024
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 1

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Fuji White

Zixxer wrote:
Have you tried replacing the crank sensor

I’m trying to diagnose my puma not wanting to start properly, it’ll crank rev for a second or two then die. OBD reader is saying it’s due to the glow plug in cylinder 4 but by the sounds of it, it might be the immobiliser. I’ve got a video of it starting but clearly can’t post them on here.

8th Mar 2024 11:23pm

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