 | Home > My Defender > "Kermit" My 110 Hardtop |
 
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230  
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Well, in the words of Ron Burgundy: "That escalated quickly".
I ordered a whole new dash in an attempt to resolve this: 
and a new firewall mat/pad in an attempt to resolve (things like) this: Click image to enlarge So, with those ordered, I finished my working day and then after work (and dinner!) I set about getting the interior stripped, ready for the new dash. Not bad for a couple of hours work Click image to enlarge Now I just need to get the heater matrix out so that I can get the new Firewall mat in in one piece. Few interesting finds when the dash was out, discovering where wires had been spliced historically (splices removed when we got the car): Heater Matrix Plug (no idea what the blue and black are, assuming black is earth)
Rear Window Wash Plug (no idea why, or what white with green trace is)
Instrument Cluster Plug - believe this wire is Speed transducer
Stereo Plug - Assuming for ignition live?
I also found a relay, which, judging by the pins in use, isn't doing anything? I may utilise this for a DRL Loom if i can find a decent quality one that turns them off with the headlights. |
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17th Aug 2023 7:26am |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10765 
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Good to see your mojo is back
Sorry can't help you with the wiring but a great bit of work with taking the dash out  1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.
Keeper. Clayton. |
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17th Aug 2023 6:40pm |
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230
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Thanks mate, good to have it back to be honest. I’ve been in a rut for a while with various bereavements and work commitments so it’s nice to have my enthusiasm and desire to work on him again 🙂
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17th Aug 2023 7:32pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10765
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I know what you mean and looking forward to the progress on Kermit
1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.
Keeper. Clayton. |
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17th Aug 2023 7:35pm |
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230
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It’s going to be a bit of a slow burn for a while, but a slow burn is better than no progress at all! 🙂
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17th Aug 2023 8:03pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1627  
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Being ex utilities, I’d guess for reverse beeper and maybe speed limiter at some point on the wiring. Normally it’s a how cheap and quick can you do it job on them.
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17th Aug 2023 9:15pm |
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230
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Quite possibly, hadn’t considered the fact it might be ex utilities as it doesn’t have the roller shutter sides and there is no signs of it being SVO.
If anyone has any advice on how to insulate the exposed copper cores of wires in all ears. I’ve used insulation tape for the time being. Had hoped to get them as tidy as heat shrink but no such luck as I can’t get it over an end easily. Maybe I just settle for the tape, knowing it’ll be hidden behind the dash? |
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17th Aug 2023 9:22pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1627
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Liquid electrical tape or snip it solder and glue filled heat shrink. Nail polish works in a pinch.
The solder filled heat shrink however is a no no in my book. |
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17th Aug 2023 9:31pm |
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230
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Yeah. I,m not a fan of “solder sleeves” - was hoping to avoid cutting and soldering again if I could. I might look into the liquid electrical tape though if it will give a heater finish than standard insulation tape!
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17th Aug 2023 9:35pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17414 
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As a full HT unless always a private vehicle it is likely to have had a tacho fitted so it can tow commercially, which might explain some of the oddball wiring.
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17th Aug 2023 9:37pm |
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230
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Seems you are correct @blackwolf. Don't ask me how I have never noticed that sticker before....
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18th Aug 2023 7:48am |
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230
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So, no pics on this update but:-
After having been gifted a Bearmach seal (in exchange for a donation to my local air ambulance) by Co1, my leak was still not fixed and my passenger footwell was still filling up every time it rained. The seal didn't fit great so I had made an assumption that this was where the water was coming in. Fed up with chasing this leak I booked in to have a genuine seal fitted by Land Rover in Boston (Duckworth) thinking they would be able to do a better job than me at fitting it - being the professionals. Took it home and there were creases in the seal at the dog-leg (as LR call it) of the door frame, and still leaking when I hosed it down. Took it back to LR and told them it was letting water in, and from what I could see, from the seal. They were adamant it wasn't the seal and so took the car and blasted it with a pressure washer. Turns out it was from the join between the roof and the windscreen surround. So, we went home, ripped out the roof lining and hosed it down... you cant see the water coming in due to the shape of the windscreen surround but it was quite clear from the top of the A pillar that water was seeping onto the top of the seal and then running along and dripping onto the door and down. *AS A QUICK FIX* we used Bathroom sealant to fill the gap which was visible (it looked to have been sealanted before and this has perished in a couple of places). Whilst we were there we noticed a crack in the windscreen surround as well as a couple of dodgy bits of damage so I intend to replace this panel after I have had a galvanised bulkhead, so the sealant shouldn't cause any issues with repainting. When I redo this panel, I will also be looking down the route of a pop-top so hopefully the company fitting it will be able to seal the joint properly. Now, I just need some rain (or a session with the hose) to make sure that this has finally caught the leak. I am hopeful, as the internal side window "hinges" despite not leaking themselves, are surrounded with a patch of rust, as is the corner of the bulkhead where it recedes to create the footwell, and the brackets to hold the bulkhead sound deadening to the car are rusted to sh*t. At this point though, I have everything crossed. I did think the roof electrics would have shorted, but actually the shape of the windscreen surround protects them somewhat. TL;DR:- I thought my door seal was the problem. Turns out it was some perished sealant at the roof joint. I have slapped on some sealant to seal the gap and am waiting to see if it worked. |
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4th Sep 2023 9:55am |
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