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roche1800



Member Since: 07 Apr 2020
Location: derbyshire
Posts: 334

MAF and MAP sensors plus Temp Gauge not working
I have an issue with a hiccup from the air intake side.

I have done some reading and so far I have had a workshop do a diagnostic (nothing obvious but needs further investigation), the MAF has been cleaned and likewise with the MAP.

The MAP was put back and after about 5 mins a light appeared on the dash, pic below.

At the same time the water temp was removed to look for anything obvious and put back.

Any pointers would be appreciated.


Pic of Dash Light (come on after MAP and Water Temp sensors removed)


Click image to enlarge



Pic of MAF:



Click image to enlarge



Pics of MAP:


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Pics of Water Temp Sensor:


Last edited by roche1800 on 24th Aug 2024 3:35pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #1043744 24th Aug 2024 1:20pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2029

United Kingdom 
The amber light on the dash is a DPF warning light, it means you need a passive or active DPF regeneration NOW. So you need to go on a 60MPH plus journey for 30 - 60 minutes.

The DPF amber light will come on if you have done lots of short , slow speed, start stop journeys. If that’s not the case you need to check your DPF differential pressure sensor, the pipes to it from the DPF or wiring or connectors to it. Also faulty EGR or Glow plugs can impact active regeneration of the DPF.

Have you any diagnostic trouble codes ?

PS. That green sensor looks like an air charge sensor, not a water temp sensor.
Post #1043746 24th Aug 2024 2:11pm
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roche1800



Member Since: 07 Apr 2020
Location: derbyshire
Posts: 334

Thanks for the reply. Is it a coincidence the DPF light has come on?

Cheers for the correction with the water temp sensor:

I went with this image -



Click image to enlarge



Where as I need to check or replace this, I think -



Click image to enlarge
Post #1043747 24th Aug 2024 2:18pm
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roche1800



Member Since: 07 Apr 2020
Location: derbyshire
Posts: 334

It had a diagnostic check yesterday, nothing showing with results. I am just trying to do anything I can before it has to gob back …😢
Post #1043748 24th Aug 2024 2:20pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8050

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
I am a bit lost. What's the intake hiccup, it doesn't run? And what up with the water temp gauge, it just stopped? Or shows wrong temp? Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #1043750 24th Aug 2024 3:14pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2029

United Kingdom 
Part 11 in the diagram ( LR041442) is the coolant temp sensor for a Puma 2.2 https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...es_2.2tdci

Part LR041442 https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/LR041442

Without a lot more info it’s hard to confirm whether the DPF light is coincidental, although the ECU may take account of coolant temp readings when instigating an active regeneration and if the coolant temp sensor or it’s feed to the ECU is in error it may prevent active regeneration taking place, causing the DPF to fill, and then causing the DPF differential pressure sensor to trigger a warning light.


Last edited by Ianh on 24th Aug 2024 3:36pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #1043753 24th Aug 2024 3:27pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8050

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
I am a bit lost. What's the intake hiccup, it doesn't run? And what up with the water temp gauge, it just stopped? Or shows wrong temp? Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #1043754 24th Aug 2024 3:30pm
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roche1800



Member Since: 07 Apr 2020
Location: derbyshire
Posts: 334

1. Wednesday - Driving back from purchase (200miles). There is a hiccup when driving intermittently out of air intake (3000rpm) and a judder/lag (2000rpm).

2. Friday am - Diagnostic check = no error codes at reputable workshop.

3. Friday pm - Cleaned MAF seemed better round the block

4. Saturday am - drove round block and heard hiccup

5. Saturday pm - cleaned MAP set off round block, orange DPF fault light came on. Came home immediately (is this a coincidence?)

The Defender has had a new engine, new turbo, new injectors, new glow plugs, new clutch just before I bought it and done circa 3500 miles. It’s was used on a sheep farm on Wales. One owner from new.
Post #1043755 24th Aug 2024 3:32pm
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roche1800



Member Since: 07 Apr 2020
Location: derbyshire
Posts: 334

The temp gauge wasn’t working when I bought drove it home, I’d likely to be the sensor. What’s the most cost effective route to start with.
Post #1043756 24th Aug 2024 3:36pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2029

United Kingdom 
Check temp sensor wiring and sensor. Change sensor if faulty. Then take vehicle on 60 minute 60mph run to clear amber DPF light, if light does not clear, or worse goes red, then you will need a forced static regen via diagnostics tools.

Second diagram down shows wiring to test from coolant sensor to engine ECU https://www.lrworkshop.com/wiring-diagram/...e-controls

Ps . “Used on a sheep farm in wales” ...that could mean the engine has been running and not getting to DPF regeneration temp for a lot of its life, which could cause DPF clogging and cause hiccups as exhaust gasses will be struggling to get out of the engine.
Post #1043757 24th Aug 2024 3:46pm
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roche1800



Member Since: 07 Apr 2020
Location: derbyshire
Posts: 334

Thanks for taking time to reply.

Will get the wiring checked before buying a new sensor.

I agree it could be the life it’s lived, but I do know anything that’s been needed has been done because I spoke with garage who did all the work before the purchase. Would the life it’s had then driving back 200 miles add to the DPF issue fault light.

The hiccuping (3000rpm) is from what sounds like the air intake and there is a lag/judder (or feels like loss of power/missing) at 2000rpm
Post #1043762 24th Aug 2024 4:50pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2029

United Kingdom 
On the 200 mile journey, which I assume involved quite a bit of circa 70mph for circa 1 hr elements, a passive / active regeneration should have burnt off the soot in the DPF.
The fact you have got a amber DPF light come up therefore concerns me. It may be because the ECU can’t read the coolant temperature so prevented an active regeneration, however it would not prevent a passive regeneration.

Alternatively the indi that replaced the engine may not have connected up the DPF monitoring elements up correctly, or the temp sensor, or damaged the wiring.

So fix the temp gauge not showing first and we can then check out the DPF issue.
Post #1043768 24th Aug 2024 6:06pm
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roche1800



Member Since: 07 Apr 2020
Location: derbyshire
Posts: 334

Thanks for the input. Looks as though it needs further diagnosis, if I start buying sensors its a bit of “needle in a haystack”
Post #1043775 24th Aug 2024 7:02pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2029

United Kingdom 
Just looking at your original pictures of the MAF and the green Air charge sensor . Both are VERY oily , have a look at your breather hose as I suspect there is a fair bit of oils coming from it for some reason.
Post #1043890 26th Aug 2024 11:01am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20437

United Kingdom 
What type of air filter is fitted in may I ask? The MAF looks like it could be contaminated by an oiled air filter. (Possibly). $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #1043903 26th Aug 2024 12:53pm
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