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Careless Dave



Member Since: 28 Jun 2024
Location: London
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 
Drilled wiring harness
Hi, new member here. Or should I say idiot.
I recently bought a stainless steel kit for my Defender 110. When replacing the bolts which hold the rear bodywork to the crossmember the one directly above the tow bar was seized solid. I eventually drilled it out, tapped it and put the stainless steel bolt in.
Noticed next day that my right hand indicator keeps blowing the hazard light fuse.
Removed the bolt and stuck an inspection camera down the hole...

Click image to enlarge

Damaged 3 cables Big Cry

Looking for how I should go about repairing this. Please don't tell me I have to drop the fuel tank!
Hoping that I can unplug the right hand indicator, cut the cables ties and then pull it out through the left hand side? Although just tugging at it it feels like the cable is somehow secured within the crossmember too?
Post #1038674 28th Jun 2024 8:42pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8037

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Cable goes to inside chassis, there may be enough flex if your lucky to pull it through but I don't think so.

Does it work now bolt is not shorting the three wires?

Ideally get in there seperate wires, and repair.

Even if tank has to be dropped.

Worse case. If it works now then non conductive glue over top of all three. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #1038687 29th Jun 2024 8:05am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20392

United Kingdom 
If you can get close enough to it, hot glue would work.
Do one conductor at a time, otherwise you may glue two or more together.
You can do that lightly after the individual ones have cooled.

Hot glue is non conductive and weatherproof and is similar to the sheath if set properly on the conductor.

Is the damage just one spot? And is it just to the sheath or are the wires underneath mangled? $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪


Last edited by custom90 on 29th Jun 2024 3:29pm. Edited 2 times in total
Post #1038693 29th Jun 2024 8:53am
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Careless Dave



Member Since: 28 Jun 2024
Location: London
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 
Still shorts out with the bolt removed -looks like one copper strand from each of the 2 cables has broken and they’re shorting out on each other. Perhaps I may be able to separate them and put them back in place with a very thin screwdriver or needle.

Just seen that you can buy ultra fine long nozzles for hot glue guns too so if I can do the above then the hot glue gun would work.
Thanks for the advice.
Post #1038697 29th Jun 2024 9:31am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20392

United Kingdom 
Possibly put a little solder on it if you can get the strands to meet, easier said than done though I do know. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #1038714 29th Jun 2024 3:27pm
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Careless Dave



Member Since: 28 Jun 2024
Location: London
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 
Ok keyhole repair attempt was very much unsuccessful. Just can’t see what I’m doing.
Looking underneath I do think there is enough space to disconnect the right hand indicator, pull the wiring harness through with its connector - only thing is there’s 3 cables ties (I think) clipping the harness to the crossmember which are very hard to get to.

Click image to enlarge


Just need to think of a way to remove these cable ties without damaging the harness Confused
Are they by chance this style of cable tie in which case I can just use a long screw driver and lever them off?

Click image to enlarge
Post #1038718 29th Jun 2024 4:22pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8037

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Yep they will lever off Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #1038719 29th Jun 2024 4:30pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20392

United Kingdom 
That’s the ones and you can buy replacements if needed.

It might pay for you to run new wiring externally just for now, quicker and faster and then repair the original. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #1038729 29th Jun 2024 6:56pm
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MadTom



Member Since: 10 Sep 2013
Location: Olomouc
Posts: 623

Czech Republic 1999 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Baltic Blue
For long time stable repair, you have to pull the harness out, find all damaged wires, cut and solder new piece of wire and cover with some heat-shrink tube with glue inside. Do not jus hot glue old cables, this can be used just for temporary repair, but it will not work in long time.

Those cable ties can be cut through to get enough space, than cut short and place new cable tie through opening in the old one. A bit simpler solution, than replacing whole. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo Smile
Post #1038738 29th Jun 2024 7:21pm
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Careless Dave



Member Since: 28 Jun 2024
Location: London
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 
I’ll have a go tomorrow, hopefully can pull it through and get it done 👍
Post #1038740 29th Jun 2024 7:26pm
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Careless Dave



Member Since: 28 Jun 2024
Location: London
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 
Current state of play

Click image to enlarge

However only upon getting this far did I then notice that the harness branches off back along the chassis towards the fuel tank I think. Inaccessible regardless.
Looks like I have to drop the fuel tank. Although the above was not a total waste of time as I do need the extra play to properly repair it.
So far I’ve just soaked everything that needs to come off in plusgas. The tank is 3/4 full of diesel. Might order a pump, don’t particularly feel like sucking diesel.

Trying to put a positive spin on it, the rear crossmember looks quite crusty, maybe this will give me an opportunity to properly clean it, apply some rust converter and seal it.
Ah can’t even justify it, feel terrible.
Post #1038768 30th Jun 2024 11:46am
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Careless Dave



Member Since: 28 Jun 2024
Location: London
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 
Hi does anyone know the part number for the 4 bolts which secure the fuel tank strap? (Part no. 12)
https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...2.2tdci#12
Can't seem to find it.
Post #1038995 2nd Jul 2024 10:22pm
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Will@LRW



Member Since: 04 May 2019
Location: UK
Posts: 179

 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
They have been missing from the diagrams, so i've added them:

https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...2.2tdci#24

I believe they are M8 and the other bolts in the diagram are 20mm or 16mm and could relate to the strap mounting also, so i've added YYP500100 as the part code. Here are some photos of a factory installation, which seems to match:


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
 LR Workshop
Find a Defender's history and spec: https://defender.lrworkshop.com
Post #1043344 20th Aug 2024 6:28pm
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