 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Drilled wiring harness |
 
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8033   
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Cable goes to inside chassis, there may be enough flex if your lucky to pull it through but I don't think so.
Does it work now bolt is not shorting the three wires? Ideally get in there seperate wires, and repair. Even if tank has to be dropped. Worse case. If it works now then non conductive glue over top of all three. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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29th Jun 2024 8:05am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20382 
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If you can get close enough to it, hot glue would work.
Do one conductor at a time, otherwise you may glue two or more together. You can do that lightly after the individual ones have cooled. Hot glue is non conductive and weatherproof and is similar to the sheath if set properly on the conductor. Is the damage just one spot? And is it just to the sheath or are the wires underneath mangled? $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 Last edited by custom90 on 29th Jun 2024 3:29pm. Edited 2 times in total |
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29th Jun 2024 8:53am |
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| Careless Dave Member Since: 28 Jun 2024 Location: London Posts: 6
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Still shorts out with the bolt removed -looks like one copper strand from each of the 2 cables has broken and they’re shorting out on each other. Perhaps I may be able to separate them and put them back in place with a very thin screwdriver or needle.
Just seen that you can buy ultra fine long nozzles for hot glue guns too so if I can do the above then the hot glue gun would work. Thanks for the advice. |
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29th Jun 2024 9:31am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20382
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Possibly put a little solder on it if you can get the strands to meet, easier said than done though I do know. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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29th Jun 2024 3:27pm |
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| Careless Dave Member Since: 28 Jun 2024 Location: London Posts: 6
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Ok keyhole repair attempt was very much unsuccessful. Just can’t see what I’m doing.
Looking underneath I do think there is enough space to disconnect the right hand indicator, pull the wiring harness through with its connector - only thing is there’s 3 cables ties (I think) clipping the harness to the crossmember which are very hard to get to.  Click image to enlarge Just need to think of a way to remove these cable ties without damaging the harness 
Are they by chance this style of cable tie in which case I can just use a long screw driver and lever them off? Click image to enlarge |
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29th Jun 2024 4:22pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8033
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Yep they will lever off Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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29th Jun 2024 4:30pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20382
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That’s the ones and you can buy replacements if needed.
It might pay for you to run new wiring externally just for now, quicker and faster and then repair the original. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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29th Jun 2024 6:56pm |
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| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 623  
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For long time stable repair, you have to pull the harness out, find all damaged wires, cut and solder new piece of wire and cover with some heat-shrink tube with glue inside. Do not jus hot glue old cables, this can be used just for temporary repair, but it will not work in long time.
Those cable ties can be cut through to get enough space, than cut short and place new cable tie through opening in the old one. A bit simpler solution, than replacing whole. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo  |
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29th Jun 2024 7:21pm |
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| Careless Dave Member Since: 28 Jun 2024 Location: London Posts: 6
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I’ll have a go tomorrow, hopefully can pull it through and get it done 👍
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29th Jun 2024 7:26pm |
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| Careless Dave Member Since: 28 Jun 2024 Location: London Posts: 6
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Current state of play
Click image to enlarge However only upon getting this far did I then notice that the harness branches off back along the chassis towards the fuel tank I think. Inaccessible regardless. Looks like I have to drop the fuel tank. Although the above was not a total waste of time as I do need the extra play to properly repair it. So far I’ve just soaked everything that needs to come off in plusgas. The tank is 3/4 full of diesel. Might order a pump, don’t particularly feel like sucking diesel. Trying to put a positive spin on it, the rear crossmember looks quite crusty, maybe this will give me an opportunity to properly clean it, apply some rust converter and seal it. Ah can’t even justify it, feel terrible. |
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30th Jun 2024 11:46am |
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| Careless Dave Member Since: 28 Jun 2024 Location: London Posts: 6
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Hi does anyone know the part number for the 4 bolts which secure the fuel tank strap? (Part no. 12)
https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...2.2tdci#12 Can't seem to find it. |
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2nd Jul 2024 10:22pm |
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| Will@LRW Member Since: 04 May 2019 Location: UK Posts: 179 
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They have been missing from the diagrams, so i've added them:
https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...2.2tdci#24 I believe they are M8 and the other bolts in the diagram are 20mm or 16mm and could relate to the strap mounting also, so i've added YYP500100 as the part code. Here are some photos of a factory installation, which seems to match: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge LR Workshop Find a Defender's history and spec: https://defender.lrworkshop.com |
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20th Aug 2024 6:28pm |
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