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Home > Puma (Tdci) > VCV Replacement Photos

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Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4149

VCV Replacement Photos Thought some photos might be of use for anyone doing this in the future. I didn't get any pics of removing the old one because I was too busy swearing, but if you view these in reverse order you'll get the idea For this job, tool selection is crucial. Getting the right lenth extension on the hex key is vital. I used a 3/8" ratchet and extensions. This one for the rearmost bolt Click image to enlarge And this one for the front one Click image to enlarge It's a great help to remove as much stuff out of the way as possible. I disconnected the bracket securing the wiring loom and fuel pipes to the inlet Manifold, this is important as it let's you push the fuel pipes about to get to the bolts. I also disconnected the pipe from vacuum pump like so Click image to enlarge Once the old VCV is off, you need to remove the old steel gasket, and o-ring. The o-ring came out with the VCV, but I needed to use a little flat balded screwdriver to prize the gasket off. Click image to enlarge Next, insert the new o-ring Click image to enlarge This new VCV came with guide pins which make lining everything up easier. I just screwed them in a turn or so to make taking them out as easy as possible. Click image to enlarge Next, put the new metal gasket in. I had some long surgical tongue things which helped greatly. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Next put the new VCV in, being super careful not to get any dirt on the bit that goes in the pump Click image to enlarge Remove the guide pins and then cut your hands to shreds refitting the bolts. Mine didnt come with new bolts, but the instructions had torque settings so make sure to use your best calibrated wrist on the ratchet and shout click when it feels tight. Click image to enlarge Go for a drive marvel at the smooth tockover and improved throttle response. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS

22nd Jun 2024 5:52pm

jim4244 Member Since: 13 Apr 2014 Location: Bedfordshire Posts: 725	Shout “click!” When it feels tight
22nd Jun 2024 6:34pm

kmac Member Since: 07 Oct 2009 Location: Middlesex Posts: 1301	Nice guide - those pics make it seem like the VCV is really accessible.....
23rd Jun 2024 10:00am

Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4149	Never trust anything you see on the Internet! 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
23rd Jun 2024 1:26pm

custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20115

I just was looking though old photos I had and found one of mine that might be useful too: Click image to enlarge That’s a ball ended hex key, useful to lightly wind in the socket screws before sorting out the torque settings after that or removing the old one. I seem to remember spraying the part under the VCV with aerosol brake cleaner before removing it, as just under it a lot of detritus tends to gather, and it’s much better to clean before taking the old VCV out than after. Alcohol wipe on the surface before the gasket. Obviously allow to evaporate on both instances. The guides are a good idea for sure. I think when I installed mine, I think the seal I put on the VCV before fitting but don’t quote me I can’t remember exactly in perfect detail. I seem to remember I didn’t disconnect the vac pump in my case. I think the EGR is a more of a pain of a job to do. NEVER SURRENDER! ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧

23rd Jun 2024 11:39pm

bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1909

Great write up, looks easy in those pics. i managed to do mine a few times without removing anything and using small swivel socket extensions, I've got big hands too, will think about removing the fuel lines next time  2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)

24th Jun 2024 6:58am

mwestcrew Member Since: 09 Dec 2019 Location: South Warwickshire Posts: 234	Where did you get the VCV from. Never seen the guide pins before and I’ve changed a good few of these now. 2011 130 Utility Body 2005 110 Van
27th Jun 2024 10:05am

hornet Member Since: 04 Jan 2010 Location: Western Europe Posts: 357	Stick to DENSO DCRS300260
27th Jun 2024 11:07am

Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4149	mwestcrew wrote: Where did you get the VCV from. Never seen the guide pins before and I’ve changed a good few of these now. It was a Denso from LR Centre Ltd. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
27th Jun 2024 1:20pm

Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4149	hornet wrote: Stick to DENSO DCRS300260 I believe that's what is was. Click image to enlarge 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
27th Jun 2024 1:28pm

Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4149

So this was my 2nd VCV failure in my ownership. I dismantled the valve that time and found discolouration, scoring on the piston. This time same thing you can possibly see the discolouration and faint scoring in this pic. Click image to enlarge To me this looks like a precision ground and polished part with a very precise fit in the bore. It's possible this minute damage is enough to cause the piston to bind slightly in the bore and thus the valve loses the precise control over the fuel pressure. Just a guess. As the root cause, your guess is as good as mine. Dirt/moisture in the fuel? Who knows? 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS

27th Jun 2024 1:46pm

custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20115

That’s the same as mine was pretty much, as Blackwolf mentioned previously who has much more knowledge on this than me, water contamination can be one of the causes of killing a VCV. I believe that as well, as my VCV went the next day after filling up with fuel at an independent fuel station I don’t use and haven’t done since. I suspect there was some contamination there, possibly from their underground storage tanks. I have a suspicion the CHT sensor could do with changing on mine, but I’m reluctant to change something without needing to. If it isn’t broke, don’t fix it springs to mind. I guess testing it would be the way to go, but that’s okay if you have a brand new part to test it and compare it to anyway. Unless there is a table to show the details of what the readings should be for it. Only if the CHT has failed, little happens other than running richer on fuel than it should and using more fuel than it should. Periodic cleaning on MAF and MAP sensors are useful, but I think bi-annual cleaning of those is fine not too often. The VCV I have fitted now, runs on exclusively standard diesel and millers diesel additive. The original VCV had ran for a time on standard diesel only, so it will be interesting to see what difference it makes if anything. The extra lubricant agents in the fuel additive may make a difference, maybe not but diesel techs do tend to suggest that engine internals and injectors etc are often kept in far better condition and it runs better. The scoring of the VCV piston exterior is a common feature though, presumably the blueing of them is heat related? There is also the outer bore that maybe scored as well. It is a real pain that there are many knock offs and re-engineered ones out there though. NEVER SURRENDER! ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧

27th Jun 2024 2:02pm

Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4149	The blueing will be due to it being heat treated before it is ground and polished. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
27th Jun 2024 2:10pm

custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20115	That makes sense.  NEVER SURRENDER! ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
27th Jun 2024 2:12pm

andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 409	Bluest wrote: The blueing will be due to it being heat treated before it is ground and polished. Could be but my experience of heat treating metal is the colours are easily removed.. Any grinding or polishing a heat treated steel removes the colours... Even by polishing.. If its blue through heat that's more likely comes from overheating in use..
27th Jun 2024 3:58pm

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