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Waka56



Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 161

Germany 
Rattle under load (sorted, injector problem)
Hey hey,
I have a rattle on my puma 2008 2.4 with 200.000kms

Injectors seals and bolts are new
MAP&MAF new
Oil, filter (Air and diesel) new
Actuator new

I had a Code P0234 error that seems to be gone since the new MAF but it could come back.Noise did not change. I am gonna change the EGR once I get some new tools, could not untight the bottom 10mm bolt. (I do not get the chug chug chug noise). Also planning on getting the injectors tested. They were really clean when I changed the seals, so either they've been cleaned before, or they are doing ok.. The rocker cover was really oily on the outside, nothing since the rocker seals were changed. The car does not smoke (except with really cold starts the first minutes). With negative temperature it always started directly (which actually surprised me haha). It also Idles fairly nice between 795 and 805 rpm (info from ODBII).

Rattle comes especially once the engine gets warmer around 1800 rpm till I don't know because I do not want to push the car until I know what's up. As soon as the accelerator is released, the noise is gone (last seconds of the video). When there is no p0234 error, the engine pulls nicely.

I bought this car with the noise, not much history.

https://youtube.com/shorts/RJq_kzsN3jk Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)


Last edited by Waka56 on 4th Apr 2024 12:04pm. Edited 2 times in total
Post #1021622 18th Jan 2024 9:33am
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Waka56



Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 161

Germany 
I see people are scared to tell me my engine is toast 😅
Edit: more info, noise might get louder with higher RPMs, but the frequency of the rattle seems to stay the same.
Edit 2: reading the info given, could it be a simple Turbo heat shield rattle? 🙃 Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
Post #1021637 18th Jan 2024 11:03am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20347

United Kingdom 
Probably is turbo heat shield, is the exhaust rubbing anywhere? $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #1021649 18th Jan 2024 12:45pm
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Waka56



Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 161

Germany 
Not that I have seen. I was so 100% sure it was the injectors that I kinda disregarded any other possibilities. I just never saw videos with heat shield sounds. Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)

Last edited by Waka56 on 19th Mar 2024 7:41pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #1021650 18th Jan 2024 12:49pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20347

United Kingdom 
Possibly gearstick rattle? $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #1021652 18th Jan 2024 12:51pm
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Waka56



Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 161

Germany 
That's also a thing?! Haha, I'll check how to diagnose that.
The sound comes from the engine bay also for this gear rattle? Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
Post #1021657 18th Jan 2024 1:37pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5695

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
If you think it is more engine then it maybe the VCV valve over fuelling. When mine went sounded almost bottom end knocky rather rattling
Post #1021662 18th Jan 2024 2:20pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20347

United Kingdom 
Gearstick rattle originates from the base of the gearstick, so frontal central transmission area.

You ought to take a look at the area you think it’s coming from and just give tinny metal parts such as heat shields a little tap with something like a screwdriver or very light hammer. Then see if it sounds similar. Move bits by hand and see if there is anything loose, especially from underneath.

Things that make a noise are usually heat shields, exhaust tubing and things like that as they can resonate.

P.s. The error code you have there is turbo over boost, I would lube your turbo actuator’s two piviot points with a light oil.
This is normally caused by a sticky actuator mech, which can create over boost.
This is located next to bd connected to the turbo actuator which is the black box adjacent to the turbo with the electrical connector on it.
You don’t need to disconnect anything, simply clear the OBD2 code and put a bit of light oil like 3in1 on the two pivots of the actuator rod periodically.

LR use a high temp, likely ceramic grease (expensive as well the part no for it).
Personally I think grease of any kind is too thick and sticky for it, especially in cold weather until hot.

Don’t get any lube on the actual turbo, so I wouldn’t use excess spay lube as the turbo obviously gets VERY hot and would be a fire risk.
Ensuring the purpose actuator is free, is vital as it has a massive impact on performance and responsiveness.
They can be known to be a squeaky actuator as well… Laughing

The vanes in the turbo can get stuck, or the electronic actuator fail. Often the vanes can be manually freed up and the EA replaced as a stand alone singular part.
Unless super high mileage the turbo often doesn’t need to be replaced as a whole unit which is very expensive but sometimes it is needed but you know it depends on which part.

A rattle however, can sometimes be the turbo heat shield, check just behind it in case a bonnet release cable or brake pipe is against it rattling on this area is known for rattles which is between the turbo and cab. Though if yours is a LHD it maybe different.

You should be able to find it eventually, but the turbo issue I’d defiantly have a look at and ongoing don’t forget to lube it periodically just like you would using different products for door hinges, prop shafts clutch pivot etc etc. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #1021663 18th Jan 2024 2:33pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20347

United Kingdom 
landy andy wrote:
If you think it is more engine then it maybe the VCV valve over fuelling. When mine went sounded almost bottom end knocky rather rattling


That is true, definitely causes a very poor idle that’s for sure but cutting out was the death knell I found when it was finally time to replace.
Though in sub zero weather diesels always are a bit rough until warm. Very Happy $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #1021664 18th Jan 2024 2:35pm
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Waka56



Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 161

Germany 
Ok ok, I'll check all that. My actuator seemed to move easily when I checked but I did not disconnect any parts so it just moved a millimeter or so. I think I'll take off the heat shield and take the car for a ride to see what it does. I would love to check where the sound comes from, but it only comes under load.
Did you check the sound on the video? I don't know if I should describe it as a rattle or a knock haha, sure thing is first thing I thought when I first heard it was an injection noise, but no smoke, idling really good, so before I get the injectors checked I'll look at the rest to. Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
Post #1021690 18th Jan 2024 6:22pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20347

United Kingdom 
You can normally tell a lot about the injectors by the pressures they are producing when electronically checked on diagnostics vs what they should be.
Beyond that is getting very technical which is beyond my scope of knowledge.

Bear in mind not all noises actually come from where you think, might be worth checking your prop UJ’s and A frame as well.
Props are known to make noises at a certain speed or RPM, and UJ’s can be difficult to check as well.
Long shot, but you never know.

There is pulley bearings as well of course. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #1021696 18th Jan 2024 7:00pm
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Mother superior



Member Since: 05 Aug 2013
Location: Surrey
Posts: 504

United Kingdom 
I had major rattle under load, turns out that one of the injectors was massively over fuelling to the point that the injector bloke was surprised that there wasn't a hole in number 4 cylinder.
One set of shiny new set of Denso's later and she's running like a sewing machine.
My rattle was affected by external temperature and where the engine was in it's temperature/fuelling cycle and you could sort of "drive around it". That said you could tell that the noise was coming from the top of the engine.
Hope this helps

Wes Oh woe, oh woe
My crusty old landrover,
It will not go.
Post #1021755 19th Jan 2024 10:33am
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Waka56



Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 161

Germany 
I removed the heat shield, made no difference. The rattle evolved since I changed the oil it seems tho. It appears higher in the RPMs and on some gears it is totally gone. P0234 still there, gonna check the actuator.. in fact, I already looked a bit. Can anyone tells me what is this work of art on the picture? 😅


Click image to enlarge
 Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
Post #1021758 19th Jan 2024 11:28am
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2414

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
Shocked

With some help on the throttle you should watch if the lever moves as designed, I reckon. Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #1021760 19th Jan 2024 12:34pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17372

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
It's very unlikely that you'll get any turbo actuator movement unless the engine is under load.
Post #1021761 19th Jan 2024 12:36pm
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