DefenderOfTheEarth wrote:

Unless some goon has put road tyres on a Defender, pretty much all will cope pretty well in snow and ice.

Got out of several sticky situations in ours that anything else would have failed in last year - two occasions required extreme care and selection of difflock/high range (low slips too much on ice IMO) but got there in the end. I was amazed how good it was TBH - and the ONLY vehicles on the road (this is rural Cornwall) when it got really bad were Defenders.

You would have all been proud!

robpenrose wrote:

DefenderOfTheEarth wrote:

Unless some goon has put road tyres on a Defender, pretty much all will cope pretty well in snow and ice.

Got out of several sticky situations in ours that anything else would have failed in last year - two occasions required extreme care and selection of difflock/high range (low slips too much on ice IMO) but got there in the end. I was amazed how good it was TBH - and the ONLY vehicles on the road (this is rural Cornwall) when it got really bad were Defenders.

You would have all been proud!

Try low 2nd or 3rd to pull away in, should be better than 1st High and shouldnt slip. You also wont need any revs either so that should help.

DefenderOfTheEarth wrote:

robpenrose wrote:

DefenderOfTheEarth wrote:

Unless some goon has put road tyres on a Defender, pretty much all will cope pretty well in snow and ice.

Got out of several sticky situations in ours that anything else would have failed in last year - two occasions required extreme care and selection of difflock/high range (low slips too much on ice IMO) but got there in the end. I was amazed how good it was TBH - and the ONLY vehicles on the road (this is rural Cornwall) when it got really bad were Defenders.

You would have all been proud!

Try low 2nd or 3rd to pull away in, should be better than 1st High and shouldnt slip. You also wont need any revs either so that should help.

Cheers Rob.

Tried that exiting a 2ft "ramp" made up of near solid ice. 2nd wouldn't go (it was directly onto an icy road with no room forwards - like a sort of T junction) partly because I had to get onto the road very slowly. 1st high did it on the 2nd go - I was literally sliding completely sideways on my first three attempts. Great fun!!

robpenrose wrote:

DefenderOfTheEarth wrote:

robpenrose wrote:

DefenderOfTheEarth wrote:

Unless some goon has put road tyres on a Defender, pretty much all will cope pretty well in snow and ice.

Got out of several sticky situations in ours that anything else would have failed in last year - two occasions required extreme care and selection of difflock/high range (low slips too much on ice IMO) but got there in the end. I was amazed how good it was TBH - and the ONLY vehicles on the road (this is rural Cornwall) when it got really bad were Defenders.

You would have all been proud!

Try low 2nd or 3rd to pull away in, should be better than 1st High and shouldnt slip. You also wont need any revs either so that should help.

Cheers Rob.

Tried that exiting a 2ft "ramp" made up of near solid ice. 2nd wouldn't go (it was directly onto an icy road with no room forwards - like a sort of T junction) partly because I had to get onto the road very slowly. 1st high did it on the 2nd go - I was literally sliding completely sideways on my first three attempts. Great fun!!

In those situations like you say, a little forward motion before the ramp will help enormously.

I spent three seasons living in the Apls during the winter, so everyday was fighting against the elements.

I once drove to the Alps (Alpe d'Huez - know a lot of people there) with the wife in a (new at the time - pre chav) Saxo VTR. Seemed a good idea at the time and TBH, the drive was rather fun. However I didn't use the car for almost three weeks once there and when we had to leave to catch our ferry across the Channel, the car was iced in. Spent a lot of time (which we didn't have) freeing it using foot mats and brute force. Then had to drive down the 21 hairpins, all iced up. Flipping scary! Finally got to "normal" roads and had to hammer it for nine hours stopping "pit stop" style for fuel and made the ferry with a mere 20 minutes to spare -YIKES!

Methinks the 110 we now have would have been a little more capable!

Character building stuff. As long as you stay alive.

Anyhow now WAY off topic - any progress with the 110 Scottish?! Defender 110XS SW gone... now VW California 180 4 Motion.

DefenderOfTheEarth wrote:

robpenrose wrote:

DefenderOfTheEarth wrote:

robpenrose wrote:

DefenderOfTheEarth wrote:

Unless some goon has put road tyres on a Defender, pretty much all will cope pretty well in snow and ice.

Got out of several sticky situations in ours that anything else would have failed in last year - two occasions required extreme care and selection of difflock/high range (low slips too much on ice IMO) but got there in the end. I was amazed how good it was TBH - and the ONLY vehicles on the road (this is rural Cornwall) when it got really bad were Defenders.

You would have all been proud!

Try low 2nd or 3rd to pull away in, should be better than 1st High and shouldnt slip. You also wont need any revs either so that should help.

Cheers Rob.

Tried that exiting a 2ft "ramp" made up of near solid ice. 2nd wouldn't go (it was directly onto an icy road with no room forwards - like a sort of T junction) partly because I had to get onto the road very slowly. 1st high did it on the 2nd go - I was literally sliding completely sideways on my first three attempts. Great fun!!

In those situations like you say, a little forward motion before the ramp will help enormously.

I spent three seasons living in the Apls during the winter, so everyday was fighting against the elements.

I once drove to the Alps (Alpe d'Huez - know a lot of people there) with the wife in a (new at the time - pre chav) Saxo VTR. Seemed a good idea at the time and TBH, the drive was rather fun. However I didn't use the car for almost three weeks once there and when we had to leave to catch our ferry across the Channel, the car was iced in. Spent a lot of time (which we didn't have) freeing it using foot mats and brute force. Then had to drive down the 21 hairpins, all iced up. Flipping scary! Finally got to "normal" roads and had to hammer it for nine hours stopping "pit stop" style for fuel and made the ferry with a mere 20 minutes to spare -YIKES!

Methinks the 110 we now have would have been a little more capable!

Character building stuff. As long as you stay alive.

Anyhow now WAY off topic - any progress with the 110 Scottish?!

Well, i found a 110 xs county station wagon for 19,995. Its a 07' with about 55k miles, but the guy isn't coming off the price on it.. He is willing to tax it for 6 months though ! Im going to work on this guy and see where i can get, but no one that i know has ever paid the full asking price on a car (at least no one i know). I recon i can get him down to at least 19K, but it will take a bit of good talking and patience i think.... Other than that, im still looking for the same type of spec or newer around the same price range

scottish110 wrote:

Well, i found a 110 xs county station wagon for 19,995. Its a 07' with about 55k miles, but the guy isn't coming off the price on it.. He is willing to tax it for 6 months though ! Im going to work on this guy and see where i can get, but no one that i know has ever paid the full asking price on a car (at least no one i know). I recon i can get him down to at least 19K, but it will take a bit of good talking and patience i think.... Other than that, im still looking for the same type of spec or newer around the same price range

Green Machine wrote:

scottish110 wrote:

Well, i found a 110 xs county station wagon for 19,995. Its a 07' with about 55k miles, but the guy isn't coming off the price on it.. He is willing to tax it for 6 months though ! Im going to work on this guy and see where i can get, but no one that i know has ever paid the full asking price on a car (at least no one i know). I recon i can get him down to at least 19K, but it will take a bit of good talking and patience i think.... Other than that, im still looking for the same type of spec or newer around the same price range

Scottish - bear in mind that some people do set prices where they should be and are not prepared to negotiate. I have never paid the initial asking price from a main dealer, but I did for my Defender from a good independent. Why? Because the vehicle was obviously worth what he was asking for it. Personally, I would rather deal with someone who has set the value of the vehicle correctly rather than wasting time haggling over a few quid. It always surprises me that we have this obsession in the UK motor trade with having to knock the price down. I don't go to buy milk and a paper and expect to pay less than the marked price, so why do we with vehicles? I think it has become something of a 'tradition' that has just become the expected norm. I understand that everyone would want to buy a vehicle for as little as possible, but doesn't that just mean that you distrust the seller because he is 'trying to rip you off', and he resents you because he wants more for it. It never seems a very good way to do business to me. Perhaps I'm just not as shrewd as some!

My point is - don't overlook an ideal vehicle because you didn't manage to negotiate the price. Sellers know that if they have a good vehicle to sell, they don't need to negotiate. Someone will come along and pay what they're asking. Of course, if they know it's a heap, they might try to get away with a bit more and be prepared to knock a fair bit off just to get shot of it.

As a sales guy myself i know what it is like to put a price on something as you are setting that price on not only the vehicle but the quality of service that the customer gets. I ALWAYS put a high price and i ALWAYS expect them to come back and ask for a discount (EVEN IN A MULITI BILLION POUND OIL INDUSTRY) , this is part of business. Its not cause i want something for nothing, its simply because i dont have that extra grand to throw at it as it is a cash sale which should be more appealing to the sales guy cause he doesn't have to muck about trying to get rid of the customers trade in. Obviously your not going to haggle over milk and a paper which will set you back a couple quid, but when you are talking about 20,000 pounds of savings going into the deal then you expect a certain type appreciation from the seller that your about to throw a load of money right his way. With 3 kids to take care of its not been easy at times, but now finally im getting to buy something for myself and if that means bargaining for something that i really want then so be it and if i dont get it then i have to just keep looking... Some people (sounds like yourself) have enough money to just hand over and be happy about it, but for the other half it is not always like that. I pay for everything in cash, my cars and my house,no credit, if i cant buy it right then and there then i dont have it as i see to many people get themselves into debt way over there head. Anyways, thats my take on it, but everyone to there own opinions i guess !

scottish110 wrote:

Green Machine wrote:

scottish110 wrote:

Well, i found a 110 xs county station wagon for 19,995. Its a 07' with about 55k miles, but the guy isn't coming off the price on it.. He is willing to tax it for 6 months though ! Im going to work on this guy and see where i can get, but no one that i know has ever paid the full asking price on a car (at least no one i know). I recon i can get him down to at least 19K, but it will take a bit of good talking and patience i think.... Other than that, im still looking for the same type of spec or newer around the same price range

Scottish - bear in mind that some people do set prices where they should be and are not prepared to negotiate. I have never paid the initial asking price from a main dealer, but I did for my Defender from a good independent. Why? Because the vehicle was obviously worth what he was asking for it. Personally, I would rather deal with someone who has set the value of the vehicle correctly rather than wasting time haggling over a few quid. It always surprises me that we have this obsession in the UK motor trade with having to knock the price down. I don't go to buy milk and a paper and expect to pay less than the marked price, so why do we with vehicles? I think it has become something of a 'tradition' that has just become the expected norm. I understand that everyone would want to buy a vehicle for as little as possible, but doesn't that just mean that you distrust the seller because he is 'trying to rip you off', and he resents you because he wants more for it. It never seems a very good way to do business to me. Perhaps I'm just not as shrewd as some!

My point is - don't overlook an ideal vehicle because you didn't manage to negotiate the price. Sellers know that if they have a good vehicle to sell, they don't need to negotiate. Someone will come along and pay what they're asking. Of course, if they know it's a heap, they might try to get away with a bit more and be prepared to knock a fair bit off just to get shot of it.

it is a cash sale which should be more appealing to the sales guy cause he doesn't have to muck about trying to get rid of the customers trade in.

scottish110 wrote:

..pay for everything in cash, my cars and my house,no credit, if i cant buy it right then and there then i dont have it as i see to many people get themselves into debt way over there head. Anyways, thats my take on it, but everyone to there own opinions i guess !

If you can pay cash for a house then fair play to you - wish I could  John

http://www.hampshire4x4response.co.uk

2011 Tdci 110 CSW XS

JSG wrote:

scottish110 wrote:

..pay for everything in cash, my cars and my house,no credit, if i cant buy it right then and there then i dont have it as i see to many people get themselves into debt way over there head. Anyways, thats my take on it, but everyone to there own opinions i guess !

If you can pay cash for a house then fair play to you - wish I could

Odin wrote:

That sounds like a fair price for the vehicle, particularly up here. Good luck to you if you get a discount but I'd be cautious of bargaining too hard - you'll know the concepts of opportunity cost and lost time, and you'll certainly lose several hours finding another at that spec and cost and proximity for the sake of a few hundred quid.

Good luck.

Green Machine wrote:

Scottish - I wasn't accusing you of wanting something for nothing. I know absolutely nothing about you or your personal circumstances, I wasn't saying anything about you personally. I was just making a more general observation. There are some people that I know personally who absolutely have to 'do a deal' or 'strike a bargain' and sometimes end up missing out because the seller wasn't prepared to haggle.

As a yorkshireman I certainly don't go around throwing money away, but if I can see that something is fairly priced, compared with what else is available, I would be prepared to pay that price if the seller said they weren't prepared to negotiate on it. I suppose it all depends on how keen the seller is to move something on, and how keen the buyer is to get exactly what they want. Which is essentially what business is all about at the end of the day isn't it?

Anyway - I wish you all success with the search and hope you find what you want, at the right price.

No worries, i wasn't taking it that way mate. Iv taken on board what everyone has said on here and after thinking about it im just going to pay the asking price. Its not like im buying a ford focus here and i guess im paying for the fact that its an excepionally great motor (Not to say focus's aren't ). So with that being said im going to call the guy today and put down the deposit ! Thanks for your advice