 | Home > My Defender > Defender 90 puma low milage but was used on a farm. |
 
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| Landy addict Member Since: 03 Dec 2022 Location: Argyll Posts: 75  
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Thought it was time for an update not had as much chance to work on it as I would like as been working away most the time this year.
Some new parts 2x swivel ball kits & brake callipers to allow vented disks.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge made a start on painting some parts Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge made a start on the axles Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Aframe Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge rear axle on & brake lines made up Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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31st Dec 2023 10:38am |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2109  
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Looks marvellous- better than new 👍
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31st Dec 2023 12:29pm |
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| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3689 
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Great work
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31st Dec 2023 1:18pm |
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| Landy addict Member Since: 03 Dec 2022 Location: Argyll Posts: 75
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split the engine & gearbox to check the clutch glad I did as one of the springs had fallen out.
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge new Clutch kit from LOF Click image to enlarge engine & box in Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge front & rear anti rollbar Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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1st Jan 2024 9:55am |
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| LJMARSDEN Member Since: 08 Jun 2021 Location: Nottingham Posts: 342 
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wicked stuff
I have alives comfort springs but with fox shocks, theyre lovely. 4.0 V8 Defender 90 My Instagram |
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1st Jan 2024 4:18pm |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6112 
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Great work, lovely workshop!
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1st Jan 2024 5:39pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20576
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I’ve just caught up with this thread, very nice build and I love the attention to detail.
It’s great to know almost every nut and bolt as you go through each section with an eye for detail.
I cannot understand why LR dual skinned this area, when I was looking at mine a couple of years ago I noticed it, I would have thought it would have made sense to either use thicker plate, or box section with drainage if for captive wiring but a semi sealed dual skinned set up seems just like a corrosion trap for little reason to me.
Looks excellent.
Excellent again, surprised the corrosion was so bad in very specific places on it looking at it, but, very good in others. Evidently rust trap areas, probably best all of us keep an eye on. 
Really nice, I have the same on mine, something else to stick a grease gun on is always useful. 
Oh yes, been there done that before. Just out of interest was it a LR Gen clutch or perhaps you aren’t sure? Mine was just the same last year and it was a LR offering… My 90 has the Sachs Transit 4x4 clutch in now, I’ve very happy with it. This one I have and the LOF offering seems two leading offerings. LR’s offering I have my doubts about, so much so I didn’t feel like having another put in.
I think that the ARB lower link to ARB Stabiliser bar bolt is in the wrong way around, it looks a little on a skew, I could be wrong but I think the bolt goes through the ARB eye and the nut is on the link side. As I said I could be wrong but the WSM probably shows the orientation, if I’m wrong, I may well be but the bolt being placed through the ARB, and the nut on the link side I think means it sits a bit better I think. Happy to be corrected though if I am wrong. 
Plus the ARB eye tends to move / pivot more than the link. Nuts towards the centre of the axle, then the ARB eye pivots just behind the washer and neck of the bolt head just beyond the washer, on the shank of the unthreaded part of the bolt. Keep us posted on your build if you can, coming on really nicely so far, keep up the good work.
It must be so nice to have the workshop in peace and quiet too, without interference from others I.e. neighbours or limited room etc too. KEEP CALM AND Drill ON
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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1st Jan 2024 7:05pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3469  
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Great work. Great progress too.
Click image to enlarge I do not think that area is double skinned. However the aluminum is sandwiched between the seat belt anchor going to the chassis outrigger and the seat belt reel bracket. I had ordered a new pair of genuine brackets that go between the tub and the chassis outrigger, and surprise surprise, they were just bare steel, no coating whatsoever. No wonder they rust and cause the galvanic corrosion as seen here. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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1st Jan 2024 8:51pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1652  
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The other vehicles in it aren’t bad either  |
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1st Jan 2024 9:01pm |
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| Landy addict Member Since: 03 Dec 2022 Location: Argyll Posts: 75
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Thanks for the comments Steve as for the ARB I think it is the right way round going by the diagram below the bolt might be skew as it isn’t tight, I left them all slack just in case I needed to remove it. If anyone ells is reading this that knows the correct way can you please comment. Click image to enlarge It was original LR clutch Double skin on the bulkhead footwell I was thinking of drilling a small hole into the cavity & spray some Lanogaurd then put in some grommets to seal it off again. |
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1st Jan 2024 10:00pm |
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| Landy addict Member Since: 03 Dec 2022 Location: Argyll Posts: 75
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Thanks for the comments Dinnu, you are correct this is not a double skin area I think the reference was to the bulkhead footwell. I have ordered some replacement anchor points that are galvanised I will coat them with several coats of epoxy just to be safe. |
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1st Jan 2024 10:13pm |
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| Landy addict Member Since: 03 Dec 2022 Location: Argyll Posts: 75
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I was going to go for the Fox shocks but thought they might be too soft for me I was told these new Alive shocks developed with Bilstien to give an in-between hardness so thought I would give them a chance. |
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1st Jan 2024 10:17pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20576
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Landy Addict - Ah that explains it, I’ll have a look at mine tomorrow. I know they do sit skew wiff when not tightened up when I’ve had mine off before.
I know mine were bolted on the same way they were from the factory and I mirrored that when I have had to take them on and off. I might just be thinking it, the WSM is usually right, only it has been known that the WSM can have anomaly’s in it and some errors though rare there is the odd spec in it that has been found to be incorrect. I would lean to believe the WSM is correct now, seeing as you mentioned they weren’t tightened up and probably mine are the same way as yours are fitted and the WSM. It’s been known for the links to be accidentally fitted upwards too, easily done for sure. In some cases, it’s the poor diagram sketches or descriptions, there is a few mis matched torque settings too in there I believe. Damper washer orientation can be a troublesome one as well. 
With the double skin bulkhead parts, I thought about spraying rust proofing in there too but when I had it and the application straw I seem to remember it was difficult to get in there as the gap between the two was so small and obstructed in many places. I think there was small rubber bungs in places, similar to wiring blank grommets that are painted over. Which gives a bit of access, but, it’s very difficult to do a good job of rust proofing in there. Could it not be filled with a liquid rustproofing solution rather than aerosol spray? Not so good regards leakage down onto the floor though if it did. KEEP CALM AND Drill ON
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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1st Jan 2024 10:58pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1652
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3M do a good Creeping cavity wax if you want to try something between the panels.
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2nd Jan 2024 1:40am |
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