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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2642  
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It’s possible the clutch fork has broken and that’s why your pedal has gone solid. You will be able to see when you remove the slave cylinder.
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14th Dec 2023 10:57am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414  
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As said above, if the pedal went solid, most likely the fork has ruptured through its ball pivot point.
If so, then can already prepare for a new reinforced clutch fork, and while you are there, perhaps a clutch kit. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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14th Dec 2023 2:41pm |
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| cykoh85 Member Since: 25 Apr 2022 Location: Selangor Posts: 143  
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Dear Retroanaconda and Dinnu Thank you for your response. So how do we know the clutch fork has broken if already remove the bottom slave? If really the clutch fork issue, is it have to take out the whole gearbox only able to fix it? Thank you. |
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15th Dec 2023 3:48pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414
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You would see the fork is all the way to the back side of the bellhousing.
Yes, either engine or gearbox+transfercase. When mine failed I decided to take out the engine as there are not a lot of wiring, pipes etc like a modern engine. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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15th Dec 2023 4:16pm |
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| cykoh85 Member Since: 25 Apr 2022 Location: Selangor Posts: 143
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alright Dinnu.
I will remove the slave cylinder and see tomorrow. Hoping is the slave issue only. Ok, meaning cannot DIY for this part if remove engine or gearbox. Anyway, thanks Bro! |
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16th Dec 2023 1:16pm |
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| cykoh85 Member Since: 25 Apr 2022 Location: Selangor Posts: 143
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Dear all
Quick Update: Today, I replaced the slave cylinder, but the clutch pedal still feels the same (unable to engage when the engine starts), although there's a slight improvement in stiffness compared to the day when there was no pressure at all. When I removed the old slave cylinder, the push rod was visible, and when I pulled it out and put it back, it seemed normal. Should the push rod be in the middle position when placed at the back? (When I checked the push rod, I hadn't installed the new slave yet). Please refer to the photo for your references. The pipe in the photo was leaking when I initially installed it. Afterward, I fixed it by using white tape, which stopped the leaks. If the pipe moves when I press the pedal (I took a video, but not able to upload here, right? please see attached photo-pipe), does it mean the fork is functioning normally? In any case, I'll attempt to bleed it again tomorrow. Thank you. |
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17th Dec 2023 1:18pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414
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Adding a link from Britannica Restorations to what could have been the problem for more understanding.
https://britrest.com/my-heavy-duty-clutch-fork/ I also note that the original slave bleed nipple was mounted the other way round. Bleed nipple should be at the top to let the air out during bleeding. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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17th Dec 2023 3:43pm |
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| cykoh85 Member Since: 25 Apr 2022 Location: Selangor Posts: 143
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Hi Dinnu
Ok, thank you. Aiks, I mounted wrongly as I followed the original slave position, looks like I have to re-do it. and forgot to upload photo for previous post. thank you.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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18th Dec 2023 1:04am |
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| cykoh85 Member Since: 25 Apr 2022 Location: Selangor Posts: 143
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UPDATE: Identified the issue with the clutch fork and clutch plate. Everything has been resolved. Thank you all  |
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24th Dec 2023 12:52pm |
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| cykoh85 Member Since: 25 Apr 2022 Location: Selangor Posts: 143
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Hi Dinnu
Thought everything was resolved, but eventually, the clutch biting point became very high, making the car immovable. After stopping for a while, I tried moving again, but soon faced the same issue. It got towed to the workshop for the second time, and the mechanic mentioned the flywheel wasn't in good condition (photo attached). Despite installing a new one, the same problem reoccurred (only once during my recent test). Luckily, I managed to return home without needing a tow for the third time. My question is: could this be due to the top clutch pump? (I didn't change it as it was already replaced last year.) I only changed the bottom clutch pump because it was broken due to the clutch fork issue that day. Is it typically necessary to replace both pumps at the same time? thank you. Click image to enlarge |
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30th Dec 2023 1:30pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414
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Its not necessary to replace the master and slave cylinders at the same time.
What do you mean with biting point too high? Does it mean that the clutch releases as soon as you start to press the clutch pedal? If yes, it could be an adjustment on the master cylinder. The push rod on the MC should be free when the clutch pedal is released, so that any residual pressure in the hydraulic system can be released into the reservoir. Note that you could have re surfaced the flywheel, although there is a minimum thickness spec for the flywheel. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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30th Dec 2023 3:42pm |
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| cykoh85 Member Since: 25 Apr 2022 Location: Selangor Posts: 143
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Hmm...Typically, when engaging first gear, releasing the clutch halfway allows the engine to move, right? However, in my situation (sometimes), the vehicle only moves when the clutch pedal is almost fully released, and at times, there's no movement at all even when releasing the pedal completely.
The mechanic just replaced the flywheel. I won't be sending the car back to them in the future. Fed-up. thank you. |
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30th Dec 2023 10:51pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414
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So that means there is already pressure on the thrust bearing and pressure plate effectively disengaging the clutch before you do. Driving like this risks burning the new clutch and damaging the flywheel from the excessive heat.
I would remove the slave cylinder and check for 2 things. 1. When removing the slave cylinder, there is no excessive force pushing the slave cylinder out. There should be only a little push and you should be able to push the slave cylinder against the clutch cover by hand. 2. Withe the slave out, check that there is clearance on the clutch fork, that is you can feel some play when pulling out and pushing it in. Edit: The company I work for has an assembly plant in Shah Alam. I hear a lot of horror stories with repair shops over there since my colleagues know I am a bit of a petrol head, so they share their worries. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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31st Dec 2023 6:04am |
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| cykoh85 Member Since: 25 Apr 2022 Location: Selangor Posts: 143
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So, are you suggesting to check the fork? (as shown in the attached photo)
Oh I see...Yup, the workshop here really terrible. Early last year, I sent it to Batu Caves for an overhaul, but they didn't use the gasket and just sealed it with RTV, causing minor leaks in a few spots. Additionally, they didn't screw the power steering pump bracket properly, leading to misalignment between the alternator and power steering pump positions. Finally, I did it myself and repositioned everything back to normal. Now it's happened again, but at a different workshop in Taman Dato Hormat. They charged me for labor again, but I managed to negotiate a lower price. If this time really the fork issue and have to remove engine again, I am going to report to Tribunal. Anyway, thanks bro. Happy New Year to you! Click image to enlarge |
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31st Dec 2023 6:38am |
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