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Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
are you sorted bp ? 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up. |
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landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5813 ![]() ![]() |
I thought you just had to pull the relay out and connect two terminals?
This shows the terminals http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=71364 Andy |
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diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6138 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
So that the air flow keeps the resistor cool... it's a huge great aluminium clad wire wound, dropping the 13 or so volts down to about 6v to dim the lights, so gets quite warm/hot. not really safe (read: cool enough) to be behind the dash.
^^^ You're correct. just make up a link to short the 2 main cables together. Then it totally bypasses the system. |
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bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 ![]() ![]() |
Jamie, when we meet on the plains, maybe you could show me
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diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6138 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
No probs.
I'll get some pics of the bulkhead on the project90, so you can see the relay in question. I meant to post the party number a while back, as there is a proper "relay" (which is just an empty box with the link inside it) to bypass the dim-dip. |
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bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 ![]() ![]() |
cheers Jamie. so to be clear, I found the pink relay behind the clocks on the dash-dials. The other link/url suggests a wire link between a couple of the terminals (red/blue wires), the relay has about 7 or 8 connectors on it .. I did not try and open it... nor could I see any red/blue wires.
cheers steve |
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diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6138 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Yes, that's right.
See picture below, my 90 bulkhead before I put the dash trim in place, you can see the pink "relay" on the RH side, with the blue/red wires going into it. ![]() Click image to enlarge If you pull said relay out, you should have 7 terminals on the relay base. you need pins 8 & 2, both blue with red trace. This is the main feed in (pin 8, from the off/side/main column switch, via ignition fed relay) then out to the headlights via fuses 22 & 23. All the other 5 pins of that relay relate to the dim-dip stuff. So, short the 2 pins out, and you'll bypass it all. But use decent sized connectors to slide into the socket, or get the correct "bypass" unit (part number to come later when i go out and get it! probably tomorrow now) or get an old relay that fits, remove the lid and guts and solder in a nice sized piece of cable across the 2 terminals) |
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bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 ![]() ![]() |
cheers Jamie, I'll take a look tonight.
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bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 ![]() ![]() |
took the ICE defender out yesterday to visit the dealership because the 300's headlights stopped working altogether. standard switch costs £50, copy part £9.99
pulled the dash apart and found the pink D/D relay, did some searching on the web and made the jumper lead - i thought it's worth a try, plugged in and hey-presto ... no dim-dip, side lights, headlights and full beam all working ![]() don't even need the switch... |
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