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steveww

Member Since: 05 Jan 2022
Location: Uppingham
Posts: 569

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Bronze Green

Tip - Greasing the prop shafts

I have an air powered grease gun which helps. No flexible pipe required.

Put the transfer box in neutral
Jack up one wheel on the rear axel, leave the wheel on.
Wriggle under the Defender.
You can turn the prop shaft to expose the grease nipple.
Pump in some grease until the old dirty stuff is pushed out and clean grease comes through.
Wipe up as much of the old grease as you can.
Lower the rear axel
Jack up one wheel on the front axel.
Same as for the rear prop shaft...

Don't forget to put the transfer box into gear or you'll be rather confused when you try to drive later.

27th Apr 2022 6:55pm

DSC-off

Member Since: 16 Oct 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 1426

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green

Don't forget to chock the wheels either when jacking it up with the transfer box in neutral.
The handbrake will not be operational, nothing to stop it moving or running away.

27th Apr 2022 7:07pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17434

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

If you want to do a more thorough job, unbolt the flange at one end (at least, both ends is better) of the propshaft so that you can articulate the joint fully while greasing. It only takes a few minutes and significantly improves grease migration through the joint as well as allowing you to assess the condition of the needle-rollers. It also avoids any problems getting the connector onto the nipple between the yokes if you are using the original-style propshafts.

27th Apr 2022 7:25pm

steveww

Member Since: 05 Jan 2022
Location: Uppingham
Posts: 569

DSC-off wrote:
Don't forget to chock the wheels either when jacking it up with the transfer box in neutral.
The handbrake will not be operational, nothing to stop it moving or running away.

Good point, well made. Fortunately my workshop floor is dead flat.

27th Apr 2022 9:08pm

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