 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Hot and....warm! |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17333   
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The nearside outlet on a Puma always blows hotter than the offside due to the quirky (i.e., poor) design of the heater box, there is really very little you can do about it. The fact that it was blowing warm with the heat control set to cold suggests that the heater valve is kaput, or the cable connecting the heater valve to the knob is out of adjustment or has detached itself. It does take a long time to cool down if you have had it on hot, though.
The heater controls are somewhat fragile, and although the Puma heater is years more advanced than any earlier Defender or Series heater, it was still about 30 years behind the cutting edge when introduced. It does at least give out heat, unlike most earlier ones. |
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22nd May 2021 9:56pm |
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| Race.it Member Since: 27 Aug 2019 Location: Algeciras Posts: 815  
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I have this with mine, found out if I want cold and somebody has turned the dial to hot, I need to open the bonnet to fully close the heater valve or the hot water sneaks in. Now I have not checked if it can be adjusted but as I like it cold that’s simple for me. Think some have mentioned zip tying it to the closed position in the past. Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.
5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details |
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23rd May 2021 8:26am |
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| Siwynne Member Since: 04 Nov 2016 Location: West lancs Posts: 578 
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 Click image to enlarge I had this and added a spring to return the valve to closed. Strong enough to return but not so strong to overwhelm the notches on the dial |
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23rd May 2021 12:17pm |
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| Siwynne Member Since: 04 Nov 2016 Location: West lancs Posts: 578
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Also check coolant level mine blew cold on drivers side when it was lower.
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23rd May 2021 12:19pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1979
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^^^^^^^^
That’s a very practical solution to getting the valve to close by that extra 1/4 , which seems to make all the difference. Do you have measurements for the spring and remember where you got it ? I was thinking of a little fabricated bracket on the heater motor housing to hold the spring, although your existing solution looks reasonably robust. |
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23rd May 2021 2:14pm |
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| Siwynne Member Since: 04 Nov 2016 Location: West lancs Posts: 578
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Sorry the spring was in a paper sweet bag of springs I bought from a proper old fashioned diy shop in Keswick when the return spring on the carb disappeared when I was there in my old Vw beetle.
I experimented a bit with length to get the amount of force just right. |
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23rd May 2021 5:17pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1913  
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Some great tips, thanks
So the spring fits to where the cable connection is and adds extra tension to keep the valve closed? Yeah first thing I checked was the coolant level, a little while ago I flushed the system through and filled up with fresh, all full and bled! 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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23rd May 2021 5:56pm |
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| Siwynne Member Since: 04 Nov 2016 Location: West lancs Posts: 578
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Yes the spring just gives enough pull to return the valve to closed. Looped over the pin that connects the control cable.
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23rd May 2021 8:45pm |
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| familymad Member Since: 13 Dec 2011 Location: Bucks Posts: 3481  
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Love threads like this. Designed by LR refined and made to work by owner ...
 1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI 1995 90 300TDI |
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24th May 2021 7:47am |
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| camelman Member Since: 27 Feb 2013 Location: Peak District Posts: 3367
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I get this issue occasionally on the puma. Appears to sort itself out if I put the air conditioning on briefly, wait for the cold air to start coming through and then knock the aircon back off. Haven't spent the time yet to work out why
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24th May 2021 8:58am |
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| Matt110 Member Since: 29 Jun 2014 Location: UK Posts: 677
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Can also be the heater duct not sealing to the blower unit. I did a thread on how to fix it a while back.
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24th May 2021 10:10am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17333
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If the heater matrix contains hot water, it takes a long time for the airflow to cool it down. Most vehicles now divert the air away from the heater matrix on cold to avoid this, but not LR on the Defender, so you have to wait for it to cool. Using the a/c briefly probably just accelerates the process.
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24th May 2021 10:20am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
^ post 07 only ^
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24th May 2021 10:33am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17333
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Yes, sorry I should have made it clear that I was talking specifically about the TDCi i.e., post '07. Comment are also true though for the Series 1 and 2 "fug stirrers", but I have no experience of anything in between.
I don't think heaters and climate control systems have ever really been Landrover's strong point. Hopefully they'be got it right at last on the prestige vehicles that are now their exclusive interest! |
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24th May 2021 11:13am |
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