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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3677

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
This is new. Bad news?

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Post #855652 12th Sep 2020 2:42pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4212

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Crankshaft seal leaking. Looks very minor. Mine has done it for years, but only occasionally does it actually leave a spot on the ground. I’ll change the seal when clutch is due. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #855656 12th Sep 2020 3:12pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3677

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Cheers. It’s in for service in a couple of weeks so I’ll see what they say. Clutch is 75k miles old and a bit rattly now. This one might be expensive!
Post #855660 12th Sep 2020 3:29pm
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CallumB



Member Since: 22 Sep 2018
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
My local Land Rover specialist here in North Norfolk (D&C Roberts) charged me £380+VAT to fit a new crank seal and a new clutch kit (which I supplied). I didn't think that was too bad, although I appreciate that there's loads of owners here that would think it's a relatively easy bit of DIY but I wasn't brave enough. Make sure whoever does it put some extra silicon on the crank seal bolts or it'll still weep without!
Post #856519 17th Sep 2020 3:40pm
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MJN110



Member Since: 18 May 2015
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 380

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 Landmark LE Montalcino Red
Co1 where do you take yours for a service in North Yorks? 2016 Defender Landmark 90
2005 Defender CSW TD5 90XS
Post #856609 18th Sep 2020 4:38am
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3677

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Madison 4x4 near Thirsk. Very food and local to work so ideal. Black paw 4x4 just south of York are good as well.
Post #856610 18th Sep 2020 4:55am
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Fat Cog



Member Since: 19 Mar 2012
Location: Oxfordshire & Devon
Posts: 502

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
My daughter has a Freelander 2 (great car in my opinion) & her mechanic added a seal softener to stop such an oil leak, I'd never heard of seal softener but he's a really good very experienced mechanic & unbelievably it worked a treat. What he told me was that the over the counter stuff was generally rubbish but the trade stuff was excellent. Not sure what the trade stuff is but this is an example.

https://www.forteuk.co.uk/product/seal-conditioner/ Since 1973...S1, Air Portable's, Defender's, but only my Wolf TUL HS GS remains
Post #856624 18th Sep 2020 7:34am
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3677

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
I think that by the time you get to the seal to apply the softener the hard work is done, and you might as well just replace it?

Ignore that, just seen that you add it to the oil. Is that correct?
Post #856658 18th Sep 2020 1:00pm
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Fat Cog



Member Since: 19 Mar 2012
Location: Oxfordshire & Devon
Posts: 502

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
I've got to be honest when he said he was going to use it my initial thoughts were 'what a load of rubbish' BUT after leaving it overnight the leak (which was worse than your picture) was fettled...it was one of those 'well I never' moment's! Since 1973...S1, Air Portable's, Defender's, but only my Wolf TUL HS GS remains
Post #856665 18th Sep 2020 1:26pm
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Fat Cog



Member Since: 19 Mar 2012
Location: Oxfordshire & Devon
Posts: 502

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
As I understand it, yes! Since 1973...S1, Air Portable's, Defender's, but only my Wolf TUL HS GS remains
Post #856667 18th Sep 2020 1:39pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3677

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Right then, might be getting worse! Had it serviced a few weeks back and since then I’m seeing clean oil as per the pics. Still no tell takes on the drive, but it’s filthy so hard to tell!! You can now see runs of drips in the sump and droplets by the drain hole.



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Post #862841 21st Oct 2020 3:53pm
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Scotm



Member Since: 28 Feb 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 666

Scotland 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey
I had a similar leak when about 18months old - took LR a couple of attempts to cure it - think it related to the sump ladder gasket whatever that is!
Post #862848 21st Oct 2020 4:26pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1845

 
TBH, I think it would pay you to get underneath with some degreaser, or even 'wonder wipes' or whatever to get the grime off that.

It does look like it's coming from the bellhousing drain, but perhaps it could also be coming from elsewhere - like the back of the sump - and a wee clean up would make that more obvious. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #862849 21st Oct 2020 4:29pm
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seriesonenut



Member Since: 19 Nov 2014
Location: Essex
Posts: 1211

United Kingdom 
That's good advice, I had something similar and it turned out to be a weep from above tracking down. I degreased the whole engine then checked with torch after a long run and spotted the source. 2010 XS USW
1957 Series One 88 diesel
1958 Series One 88 4x2
Post #862852 21st Oct 2020 4:40pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3677

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
So, got underneath yesterday morning and degreased the area. Did 60 miles yesterday and checked again and there were 3 decent drops sat there, so not good news! The clutch is rattling and has done 75k so might as well do that while the seal gets done so booked in for both.

While the transfer box is off I’ll get the output shaft checked and replaced if it is worn, but the plan was to replace with genuine rather than uprated. The genuine one is two piece, which I know is where some people see accelerated wear, but the fact it is two piece in my eyes takes up any misalignment during install. The fact that it has lasted 75k suggests my alignment is good, no? Additionally I am concerned that fitting a 1 piece HD unit will transfer any possible misalignment somewhere else. Is that logic correct?
Post #863132 23rd Oct 2020 5:17am
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