 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear Half Shaft Replacement |
 
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| JPE Member Since: 19 Nov 2018 Location: South West England Posts: 337   
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I'm planning to change the rear half shafts on my puma 110 on Saturday. I've gone for the one piece shafts from Britpart.
In my mind its all going to go really smoothly and take no more than a couple of hours, including tea breaks & afterwards there will be zero slack. If anyone has any advice or gotchas I should watch for that would be appreciated. A couple of particular things: 1. Haynes manual says jack it up on the chasis, presumably rather than axle. Does it matter? 2. I'm presuming if I jack up 1 wheel at a time & change that shaft then I don't need to empty the oil out of the diff? Any thoughts appreciated. |
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28th Feb 2019 9:29pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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I can't see why you'd want to jack the chassis rather than the axle for this particular task. How would you get the wheel off?
Swapping the half shafts is really very easy. Just make sure that the mating surfaces are clean and, when I did mine, I used a smear of grease to hold the paper gaskets in place whilst offering up the shaft.  Click image to enlarge Bolts should be tightened to 65Nm and I also took the opportunity to fit some galvanised 10.9 cap head bolts and matching spring washers. Click image to enlarge Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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28th Feb 2019 10:15pm |
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| JPE Member Since: 19 Nov 2018 Location: South West England Posts: 337
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Thanks, I'll leave the oil for now.
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28th Feb 2019 10:15pm |
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| JPE Member Since: 19 Nov 2018 Location: South West England Posts: 337
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Thanks Darren, really appreciate your advice & pictures too. It's reassuring to hear its a simple job.
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28th Feb 2019 10:17pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3653 
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there is a risk of snapping the bolts on removal, they are loctited in so go steady removing them, start with a breaker bar rather than an impact gun. also make sure you have a torque wrench and some loctite when refitting, lots of people change the bolts to cap heads, Ive reused mine several times but I dont off road or give it a lot of stick.
and as others have said if you jack off the axle there is no issue doing one at a time and not draining the oil. be careful removing the old shaft and refitting the new so not to damage the rear hub seal, unless of course you are planning on replacing or removing them as some people have. DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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1st Mar 2019 6:24am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17598 
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Personally I would no longer even consider using threadlocker on the drive flange bolts, and would also always ditch the hex head bolts for socket head caps, which are cheaper, much easier to obtain, and can't damage your wheels.
I have never had a correctly-tightened non-threadlocked flange bolt come loose and it eliminates the risk of shearing them in the hub. By the way, a couple of hours should be more than enough time, even including getting the tools out and putting them away. 15 minutes per side should be plenty!  |
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1st Mar 2019 9:17am |
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| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 672  
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I didn't even take the wheels off to do mine but maybe that is benefit of wolf wheels vs alloys?
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1st Mar 2019 10:17am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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Yes, alloys cover the hub. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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1st Mar 2019 10:23am |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
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This may seem obvious, but bear in mind that the halfshafts are long. Mine hit the garage wall on one side so I had to do one side, then reposition the car, then the other side.
I also ran a tap through to clean out the threads. |
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1st Mar 2019 3:20pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1852 
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^^^^^^ That is obvious - but no less useful a comment because of that! That would be just the sort of thing I'd fall foul of, so when I get round to this, I'll try and remember....
 Donald
1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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1st Mar 2019 6:43pm |
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| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3694 
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Did exactly that! Got it jacked up, bolts out before it dawned on me! |
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1st Mar 2019 6:57pm |
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| JPE Member Since: 19 Nov 2018 Location: South West England Posts: 337
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Thanks for all the advice, I'll let you know what goes wrong & how many days it takes me...
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1st Mar 2019 7:38pm |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5878  
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On another thread some of you may have noticed I have some drivetrain slack. Thinking of changing the half shafts, any general feedback on the Britpart versions? Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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1st Mar 2019 7:48pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2448  
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Same question. Any experience stressing those bpart halfshafts? Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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1st Mar 2019 8:22pm |
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