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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
If it were me, I'd keep the black arches, but I'm a traditionalist Cool Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #830756 12th May 2020 7:03pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3407

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
JOW240725 wrote:
It's difficult decision whether to keep 100% original or modernise a little with colour matched arches. Personally on my Ninety I colour matched arches, grille and light surrounds and white rims, and I'm really pleased with the result. But mine wasn't very orignial to start with after a CSW V8 conversion.

Either way it is going to look amazing!


I had read your post, and your motor looks cracking. I envy that your original colour was Slate Gray. Makes it look a bit extra modern. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #830761 12th May 2020 7:17pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3407

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
CarMan wrote:
Bow down

Similar age and colour (actually Arles or Windjammer) with Wolf's and gives an idea for you Thumbs Up


Click image to enlarge


Love the looks as well. Seems like I'm back in a cross road more than ever. I like original, I like the modenised look as well. I think I need to find a compromise. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #830764 12th May 2020 7:20pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3407

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
LandRoverAnorak wrote:
If it were me, I'd keep the black arches, but I'm a traditionalist Cool


I think the County range started to have colour coded arches (or maybe just an option) when the Defender name was introduced, but stand to be corrected. Of course mine is not a Defender. Whistle 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #830766 12th May 2020 7:24pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3407

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Recent photos, front end in progress. The 19J helped to preserve the front part of the chassis, plus needed a lot of scraping of old waxoil that I liberally applied some 25 years ago.


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With a bit of cleaning it turned out quite good actually.


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Both mudgards are ready from painting. Mudguards re assembled, but keeping out of the vehicle until the engine is re conditions, and painting of bulkhead and front side of the chassis.


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Engine almost ready to come out.


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 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #830770 12th May 2020 7:49pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2637

Scotland 
Coloured arches were on County-specified models long before the Defender name came in.

Might have been station wagons that got them as standard and maybe County hard tops had black arches?
Post #830771 12th May 2020 7:49pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3407

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Front / Radiator panel ready. Some time ago I ordered the ’LandRover 90’ decal to go on the front. I ordered it through an ebay seller, and at time of ordering did not pay enough attention. I am now disappointed as found that the size is not correct, and the 90 font is different, correct font should have the 9 and 0 joined together. I might order a new one, this time I am more careful.



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Mock up to see how it looks.


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 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #831407 16th May 2020 3:43pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3407

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Attention now turns to the bonnet. Had already decided that the frame has to come off for a proper job.. and I now think that the frame will get galvanized. Maybe the frame will be taken to a sandblasting shop to remove the paint, but I am concerned that they might warp it. Other option is paint remover and a lot of elbow grease. Frame only has surface rust, but that is easily removed by the acid at the galvanizers.

Once all the rivets were removed, the frame can only slide back so far, so a bit of a struggle to pop the frame out from one of the rear corners. I did not want to damage the skin. Once one corner is off, then it slides out.


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 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #831514 17th May 2020 7:53am
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HK07



Member Since: 15 Dec 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 746

England 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Cairns Blue
Amazing work, love this thread.

How do you make your own DIY zinc plater please?

Look forward to the next update. 2007 90 Puma - Love it - Best car I have ever owned.

1989 Ninety 200tdi - Love it - Second best car I have ever owned.

1951 80" Series 1 - Love it - Third best car I have ever owned.
Post #831542 17th May 2020 10:25am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3407

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
For Zinc plating I use white vinegar and Epsom salt, ratio is 1lt vinegar with 100g Epsom salt. Epsom salt chemical name is Magnesium Sulphate. Before I started plating, I left some zinc to dissolve in the vinegar to 'load' the vinegar with zinc ions. I get zinc from boat supplies shops, they are used as anodes.

For power supply, I use a battery charger. Very important is the polarity.... the red lead (positive) goes to a zinc bar, while the blue/black lead (negative) goes to the part you want to plate. My battery charger is an old fashioned one, the newer electronic ones might not work. Mine also have the 6volt option and a high/low setting, which is useful to contol the current. As an extra current control, I also vary the distance between the zinc bar and the part. There are scientific research on how much current you need per area of part you are plating, but I just go by the bubbling rate. My bath is about 12liters, which is more than enough to get the small brackets plated. Larger parts can be done in 2 steps. For the smaller parts, I usually hang them in the bath by a very thin strand of copper wire.

Parts need to be clean. I do not have a sandblaster, wish I do, but usually wire brush on a grinder/driller is doing the job well. I like the brushes on the driller, because I can reverse the rotation of the driller, that way keeps the bristles on the brush straight and do a better job.

The finish I get is not shiny, but more of a dull mat grey finish, which I actually like as I think it gives a better grip for the etch primer before painting. I did polish out some parts with scotch brite, and they turn out really nice as well.

I do this more as an extra level of corrosion resistance. I have tested some plated parts by wetting then in a water/salt solution, and they stood up really well.

But other stuff that will not get painted, and that were originally galvanized by LandRover are still going for hot dip galvanizing. I find galvanizing relatively cheap for the performance you get back. Over here they charge about 1euro/kg. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #831551 17th May 2020 11:01am
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Lodelaner



Member Since: 04 Feb 2010
Location: Lambourn
Posts: 631

United Kingdom 1988 Defender 90 V8 Petrol ST Shire Blue
Dinnu wrote:
Thank you all for your positive feedback.
Colour is Shire Blue, LRC392. As I searched about the color, it looks like it was only offered for about two years, in late 80s.

I tried to do a cheap photo editing with white wolf wheels, but I did not like it too much.

I am also not sure about the wheel arches, if I should colour match or keep mat black. I am so unsure, that I purchased an extra set of wheel arches, one will be blue and the other will remain black, and have the option to switch Cool


Shire blue with Wolfs and colour coded arches Smile


Click image to enlarge


With hard top...

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Tornado Alloys


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and finally Rostyles!


 JB

@Lodelaner Instagram

Youtube greenlaning and other LR related content
Post #831569 17th May 2020 12:36pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3407

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Nice 90 there Widget Thumbs Up . Have you considered colour coding the rims too? Colour coded arches look nice. I guess those were factory finished like that being a County. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #831586 17th May 2020 2:40pm
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Lodelaner



Member Since: 04 Feb 2010
Location: Lambourn
Posts: 631

United Kingdom 1988 Defender 90 V8 Petrol ST Shire Blue
Yes, the arches were coded on the CSW. As you say there was a very limited production life of Shire Blue, its my favourite and I've had these two 1988 models. (the top 2 pics are the same E reg, and the bottom 2 are the same F Reg)

I did think about coding the Wolfs on the 4C, but have decided to get rid instead. I have a set of Tornado alloys and a set of rotsyles awaiting tyres to go on. JB

@Lodelaner Instagram

Youtube greenlaning and other LR related content
Post #831593 17th May 2020 3:27pm
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Mike c



Member Since: 11 Aug 2017
Location: Maldon, Essex
Posts: 928

England 2004 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Belize Green
Love that fantastic standard 90 CSW V8, very rare these days Cool
Post #831595 17th May 2020 3:35pm
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red zepplin



Member Since: 26 Mar 2015
Location: Never far from a brew (Lancashire)
Posts: 196

1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Rioja Red
Widget wrote:
Dinnu wrote:
Thank you all for your positive feedback.
Colour is Shire Blue, LRC392. As I searched about the color, it looks like it was only offered for about two years, in late 80s.

I tried to do a cheap photo editing with white wolf wheels, but I did not like it too much.

I am also not sure about the wheel arches, if I should colour match or keep mat black. I am so unsure, that I purchased an extra set of wheel arches, one will be blue and the other will remain black, and have the option to switch Cool


Shire blue with Wolfs and colour coded arches Smile


Click image to enlarge


With hard top...

Click image to enlarge


Tornado Alloys


Click image to enlarge


and finally Rostyles!




Nice collection there Jonathan Thumbs Up
Simon WHAT COULD POSSIBLY GO WRONG
My sky lantern petition
http://chng.it/HJXmZC47
Post #831606 17th May 2020 3:56pm
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