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K.M



Member Since: 28 Apr 2016
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 300

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
Interior light not working - Post Dealer Warranty Work
Evening all!

Looking for a bit of hand-holding guidance if you’d be so kind!

After THREE MONTHS at an ‘approved bodyshop’ for some minor corrosion warranty (long story) I’ve finally gotten Dolly back! On the drive back from the bodyshop I noticed the clock was wrong and the radio not tuned which I thought was a little odd but didn’t read too much in it.

This evening I found the interior light not working when I opened the door... after flicking the toggle on the unit, I still couldn’t get anything to light up.

Am I looking at a blown fuse or a missed connection when they dropped the front headliner?

The clock is now working fine and radio stays tuned.
Post #819193 11th Mar 2020 9:14pm
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PCM



Member Since: 25 Jan 2019
Location: North East
Posts: 874

United Kingdom 
Check the Interior light fuse (F29) has not blown. 15 amp. Hope it's just as simple as that.
Post #819206 11th Mar 2020 9:40pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
Hmm, having been through this at the weekend, if the clock and radio are working then it's not the fuse, as they're shared with the interior lights.

Where was the work that it had done located, as that might give a clue where to start looking? Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #819234 12th Mar 2020 8:28am
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90 Dreamer



Member Since: 13 Jul 2019
Location: Oop North
Posts: 2161

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
depending on the exact work done then have they simply forgot to connect it back up??
Post #819241 12th Mar 2020 9:01am
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K.M



Member Since: 28 Apr 2016
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 300

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
the front A-frame was replaced due to corrosion which would have meant the front headerliner dropped (I'm assuming)?

The rest of the work was around the doors, rear door hinge, lower sills and B-pillar...
Post #819265 12th Mar 2020 12:25pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20382

United Kingdom 
I'd check behind your A pillar trims. Easy access and you might have a trapped wire.
If nothing is found, it's an easy place to start, nothing ventured nothing gained. Thumbs Up $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #819267 12th Mar 2020 12:57pm
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macfrank



Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 1076

Germany 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Did you check the rear light? If it's working it might be the front light's plug/bulb/switch/whatever.

If the rear lamp is dead, too: both lamps branch off 1 meter behind a plug above the door.
So it's somewhere before that branch, including the plug and the harness behind the A pillar trim as steve suggested.

Post #819285 12th Mar 2020 2:53pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20382

United Kingdom 
It’s fairly easy to put a screw though a wire on those trims too if not taking care.
I could be barking up the wrong tree but it’s possible in the circumstances.

There is also the frame of the lighting fixture that should be grounded.
IIRC there is a captive threaded stud and a lock but on there for that, and also the connections for the power supply to the fixture.
And the ground switched door connections.

The plus side is, all are easy to check on and easily accessible but a Multimeter maybe useful to you as well if you have one.
If all your fuses are in-tact then it will likely be a grounding issue which will need to be traced. Seeing as it’s not your fault though, I wouldn’t be very happy rectifying their mistake myself. I have been in a similar position myself in the past and decided like you it was less hassle just to fix myself. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #819288 12th Mar 2020 3:09pm
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