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| 110 Iain Member Since: 11 Nov 2019 Location: Scotland Posts: 82   
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110 starting issues
New to defender hoping for some help regarding starting issue. On first turn of key get half crank then click nothing on second turn of key She usually fires right up and is ok starting when warm so far have done earth cable Changed relays under seat problem is slowly getting worse as it gets colder Worried it going to pack in completely any help would be great |
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11th Nov 2019 7:59pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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First thought is battery condition, as you say it's getting worse as the weather gets colder. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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11th Nov 2019 10:19pm |
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| 110 Iain Member Since: 11 Nov 2019 Location: Scotland Posts: 82
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Sorry forgot to mention replaced batterie 3 attempts this morning on first couple of turns can hear sort of squeaking noise
perhaps starter solenoid ? |
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12th Nov 2019 9:11am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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Hmm, if it's trying to crank then probably starter motor rather than solenoid. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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12th Nov 2019 9:31am |
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| 110 Iain Member Since: 11 Nov 2019 Location: Scotland Posts: 82
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Hi its strange on maybe second or third attempt it starts normally spins up fine and starts ok once warmed up its only
after she is left for a few hours or overnight first couple of turns is like a drained batt ie half a crank at most it has been doing it since i got her 4 months ago could starter motor play up only when cold ? its a ex utility so no fobs alarm etc to interfere |
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12th Nov 2019 9:42am |
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| boxoftricks Member Since: 06 Feb 2019 Location: Home Counties Posts: 747 
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There seem to be a lot of issues related to the ignition barrels. If your battery, relays and earth connections are ok I'd suspect it may be the barrel switch becoming problematic.
I'd suggest changing and my advice is only to use genuine Land Rover replacement. They sell with door barrel locks so you keep one key. |
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12th Nov 2019 1:52pm |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6611 
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You can change just the switch and so not have to change the entire keyset.
 1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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12th Nov 2019 2:28pm |
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| 110 Iain Member Since: 11 Nov 2019 Location: Scotland Posts: 82
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Thanks for all advice so far will change ignition switch next
Got a britpart one will do to test hope this sorts it And I can get back to all the other issues leaking roof dodgy door Seals etc etc ah the joys still love the beast every journey is an Adventure Endeavour To Persevere |
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12th Nov 2019 6:26pm |
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| 110 Iain Member Since: 11 Nov 2019 Location: Scotland Posts: 82
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How easy is it to change just the switch part an I access
Side of barrel to remove ok ? Endeavour To Persevere |
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12th Nov 2019 6:55pm |
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| skidrov Member Since: 06 Oct 2013 Location: Melbourne Posts: 56  
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What I did, on a MY10 110. I bought a pattern switch, for about $AU 40 delivered.
- Disconnect battery. - Remove upper column shroud. - Remove instrument binnacle. - The switch is at the end of the lock assembly, remove small screw retaining it. - Note which wire goes where, remove the (probably) 4 wires on the switch assembly (tight work space, and that harness doesn't have much slack). - Might need to lightly tap out the old switch - tabs protrude to allow this. - Rinse and repeat, noting that it is fiddly to line the switch up in the correct spot, as it's a tight fit with limited work space - it has to go a certain way. Finally, I used blu-tac on the end of a screwdriver to refit the small screw so I didn't loose it. My guesstimate is a 1 to 2 hour job, go to stop. Not the worst task. |
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12th Nov 2019 9:26pm |
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| 110 Iain Member Since: 11 Nov 2019 Location: Scotland Posts: 82
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So changed ignition switch with the help of a grinder to
Get old one off but still got starting problem start on3rd Time first couple of cranks not even half a crank Followed by squealing noise. May bite the bullet and change starter looks a pig to do Are there any other earth points I should check or Could it be a poor positive connection? Endeavour To Persevere |
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14th Nov 2019 11:26am |
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| KelvinB Member Since: 17 May 2018 Location: Crickhowell Posts: 24  
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Agree with Anorack - Sounds like the starter motor to me. Had a similar thing a few months ago and was getting progressively worse until it failed completely. |
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18th Nov 2019 10:34pm |
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| nicholas2012 Member Since: 28 Jun 2012 Location: lanarkshire Posts: 193  
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Alright Iain I would have a guess at starter too.
I see you say you have a ex utility with no fobs one of my pals has the same. His got stolen a couple of weeks ago in daytime by breaking the ignition barrel and was driven away, was very lucky to get it back after being found hidden in woods. So might be worthwhile getting your immobiliser turned on and maybe a few other bits of security |
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19th Nov 2019 12:56am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8085  
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whats the voltage in the battery prior to a cold start and what does it drop to when you apply load to the starter? Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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19th Nov 2019 9:33am |
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