Home > Puma (Tdci) > Big clunk, but not what I thought..... |
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boxoftricks Member Since: 06 Feb 2019 Location: Home Counties Posts: 747 |
Ashcroft replacement box. I have one awaiting fitting that has the additional machined sleeving case. I'm also changing the output shaft and clutch for a LOF one as I've no idea the state of the current one so makes sense to change at the same time along with the crankcase oil seal.
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14th Jun 2019 2:58pm |
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Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3685 |
Having read your post, it would appear you have an issue with the gearbox, but before you shell out, One really simple thing to check, and one that nearly caught me out is the adjustment of the handbrake. If it is dragging it causes plenty of clunking and kangarooing.
There are 2 adjustment points: the first is on the back of the drum and is a piece of cake to adjust. With the hand brake off, you should be able to rotate the rear prop shaft a bit. Wind the handbrake adjuster clockwise until it bites. Once here, back it off 1.5 turns. The second adjustment point adjusts the movement of the handbrake lever itself. Check The lever movement before you make the adjustment to the drum and then after. If all of a sudden the lever moves a few more clicks before biting then your handbrake is likely to have been too tightly adjusted. For MOT the brake need to bite within 4 clicks I think. To get this back within 4 clicks without using the adjuster on the back of the drum is an absolute dog! The cable adjuster is sort of on the back of the seat box (google it for an image) and you need to have skinny arms and an ability to work completely blind to be able to adjust it. It is a pig and is the reason most MOt testers will take the easy way out and just wind be drum adjuster in a bit more. I adjusted mine properly and the clinking and kangarooing disappeared. Definitely work a check before you shell out on a new box |
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14th Jun 2019 6:00pm |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17467 |
It is also worth checking the condition of the rear axle "A"-frame balljoint before forking out for a new transfer box.
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14th Jun 2019 6:54pm |
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Gladys Member Since: 28 Nov 2015 Location: South Wales Posts: 36 |
Thanks for the suggestions. The handbrake and A-frame balljoint appear to be in order, so I think it will be an Ashcroft replacement.
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17th Jun 2019 1:14pm |
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nickhodgson Member Since: 08 Dec 2009 Location: Zambia Posts: 174 |
Hi
With the diff lock engaged and you turning the flanges in opposite directions I would say 40 Degree movement is normal. The collar that locks the centre diff has wide spaced teeth that allow such movement. Speak to Ashcrofts about your issue and see what they recommend. I would say your problem is elsewhere. Have you checked the triangular bushes at the front of the rear trailing arms. A good trick is to put the handbrake on and rock the rear wheels back and forward (with some gusto) and you will see any play or looseness in rear suspension bushes. Cheers 1995 300tdi Defender 90 P/UP 2011 Puma Defender 130 D/C 2000 300tdi Defender 110 P/UP 2015 Discovery 4 SDV6 HSE |
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20th Jun 2019 2:55pm |
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Pilgrimmick Member Since: 16 Nov 2015 Location: Highlands Posts: 582 |
Will be very unusual if the LT230 is the problem, it is one of the best things Land Rover have ever built! 80" 1948
Lightweight V8 Bowler Tomcat 130 Station wagon 90 300tdi (Santana PS10 pick up) Range Rover L322 (Ful fat) |
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20th Jun 2019 3:44pm |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17467 |
^^ Except for the input shaft splines, the intermediate gear bearings, the intermediate shaft seals and support, the diff, and the output seals!
Mind you, it's still probably one of the best things they've made and the best transfer box of its size that's easily available. |
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20th Jun 2019 4:23pm |
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Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3685 |
^^^ Some people are never happy!
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20th Jun 2019 5:24pm |
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Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6308 |
but that still makes it the best thing they made |
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20th Jun 2019 6:19pm |
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Gladys Member Since: 28 Nov 2015 Location: South Wales Posts: 36 |
...so I replaced the rear halfshafts with Britpart one-piece shafts and most of the noise disappeared. There still seems to be a bit of a clunk from the rear diff, but it isn't too bad at the moment, so I can live with it.
In fact things have become quiet enough for me to notice another noise (what on a Defender, surely not...?) from somewhere to the nearside of the gear lever. I can best describe it as a metallic jangling, and as far as I can tell it is there all the time. Whilst on the subject of noises, we have a couple of road humps on a fairly steep hill out of a local town. Driving over these uphill at about 20mph (it's a 30mph limit) seems to be the most comfortable speed and then I can hear a whirring noise as the front wheels reach the level road again, as though something is spinning. If I drive over the humps on the way downhill, or if I travel over humps on a level road, I don't hear the noise. If I had to place it, I would say this noise was in front of the driver's position. Without wanting to open up a discussion about general Defender noises, has anybody noticed this sort of jangling or whirring before? |
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12th Sep 2019 11:16am |
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nosnibod Member Since: 15 Aug 2007 Location: West Midlands Posts: 370 |
Jangling? Check the heat shields including the small one protecting the crank sensor. It’s really hard to get at the latter, but in my case it was the big one over the DPF broken in several places. I replaced it because it was too far gone to repair.
If it’s not those, check this forum for ‘clutch springs’ and pre-warn your wallet of an impending raid on its contents. Whirring - check the wear pattern on the front tyres because that sounds exactly like the same sound I have at low speeds under a little load. I bet you find alternating tread blocks wearing alternately - like a castle wall. I had had the tracking checked and as soon as the guy saw the weird pattern he pointed to it and told me that would be the noise and the tracking would be perfect - and it was. Dave Green Goddess - 1998 Defender 110 300tdi |
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12th Sep 2019 11:31am |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17467 |
The whirring noise will be the traction control (assuming you have ABS/TC) being woken from its slumber by the bump in the road. It can quite often happen if you are under power and cross a bump like this that the effect of unloading one or other or both front wheels can allow just enough speed differential to cause the TC to kick in. The modulator is in the engine bay directly in front of your seat which is why the noise comes from there.
It is entirely normal and nothing to worry about. |
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12th Sep 2019 12:00pm |
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Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5845 |
If the 'jangling' is a metallic, tinny sound, I had the same. Eventually found out that the handbrake drum was too tightly wound, so I was hearing the audible 'scuffing' every time I went into neutral. Got worse the faster I was driving, or with any kind of driving that would wind the drum on and tighten it a bit. If that is the sound, you'll know because you can normally stop it (or lessen it) by waggling the handbrake lever a bit whilst you hear the noise to shake the cable loose. If the noise reduces, voila simply adjust the drum/cabale a tad next time you can get under the Def. If not, it's something else. Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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12th Sep 2019 12:33pm |
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Gladys Member Since: 28 Nov 2015 Location: South Wales Posts: 36 |
Thanks for the swift replies. The Traction Control as the cause of the whirring noise makes absolute sense.
I don't think the jangling is the handbrake as I can hear it when the vehicle is at a standstill. However, as I have noticed a bit of a tapping noise before I depress the clutch, as well as the jangling, I think I had better order up the new clutch parts.... |
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12th Sep 2019 12:57pm |
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