 | Home > Technical > Waxoiling in Berkshire |
 
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| CyberCharlie Member Since: 01 Jul 2010 Location: Reading Posts: 140   
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Hi everyone,
I would like to waxoil my Defender, can you recommend a good professional near Reading area? thanks  |
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8th May 2011 4:00pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5006
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Dinitrol sell a kit for about £100 for a Land Rover 110 - tells you what to do, will take about 1.5 hours max
Look further down the page of this link where a Landy kit is listed 
http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/classic_cars.aspx Suggest researching Waxoyl and how it stands up to other products before you choose one. Dinitrol has a solvent in it so it doesn't slip down the sides leaving just a coat of oil or white spirits on a hot day, it won't re-drip on a hot day, it won't dry up and crack and it is vibration resistant. It's a hell of a lot easier to use from an aerosol also |
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8th May 2011 5:43pm |
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| Steve B Member Since: 22 May 2009 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 586 
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Wiltshire is not too far away  personally you couldn't pay me enough to do that job.
Rustmaster where mine was done is about an hour from you. Steve |
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8th May 2011 7:56pm |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5034 
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Personally I think waxoyl is better than drintol(reminds me of sheep dip)
Kits are ok, but you need nothing more than a brush although the aresol and compressor versions are good. You don't need to mix in meths...warming it does the job. It doesn't re-leak on a hot day after application if done properly and the creeping is good for coverage. Vibration isn't a problem. Drying out after 3 or 4 years isn't really a problem...but retreating at that period is good for max protection. Give yourself 3 days...make sure I reasonably clean and dry and top up a few days later Simples Ps I enjoy doing it and do it you don't get it everywhere Mike |
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8th May 2011 9:25pm |
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| chiefstoker Member Since: 11 Oct 2010 Location: Weston-super-Mud Posts: 897  
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Im glad i did mine myself- youre more thorough when its your own vehicle, besides it would have cost me a weeks wages to pay someone to do it in what took me about 4 hrs 2005 TD5 90 Hard Top
Beer 'n Sex 'n Chips 'n Gravy  |
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8th May 2011 10:44pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5006
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Mike we can see from past posts that you are very loyal to certain companies/products and very defensive of them (e.g. the past Adrian Flux thread!) but I would like to say that sometimes we are not always right and don't have to be. On this particular product it has been widely known for a long time that Waxoyl is not one of the better products on the market. 1. My feeling is you have to have had experience of both products before you can make a "qualified" judgement! 2. A brush is not good enough, you do need a minimum of a kit which has an aerosol with extension nozzle spraying 360 degrees to do the box sections, door pillars etc. I wouldn't advice putting meths in Waxoyl - white spirits yes. 3. Waxoyl is not vibration resistant, it is oil based and returns to a wax state once the oil ingredient has dried. Shrinkage causes cracking. At this point the product is useless anywhere near vibration. Original Waxoyl can also dry out after two years - as it says on the can it is advised to do it every two years. Dinitrol is solvent based with other additives so it sticks for good, does not dry out and does not not re-drip in hot conditions, thus it also vibration resistant. It also doesn't slide down the side living just a useless thin film of white spirit and oil in certain hot conditions! Waxoyl is not very well regarded by professional car restorers and knowledgeable DIY restores it is just the most marketed product and has been around for years, better products have been made over recent years. There are many tests and comparisons on the web which repeatedly show that Waxoyl comes out significantly poorer than others. Check out the Bilt Hamber site or Practical Classics test for starters or go to the NEC classic car show for instance have have a chat with the crowd, experienced amateur restorers - the word on Waxoyl hasn't been good for years. I am not espousing that Dinitrol is the miracle cure and I am sure there are better products out their (The Germans use stuff which out does them all apparently but i could never find out what it was!) I don't have to be right and am not being argumentative and don't want to win a war or words for the sake of it I just want to help people and point them towards a clearly better product. Two of the many tests showing you can do better than Waxoyl; Bilt Hamber comes out well for instance http://www.bilthamber.com/pro-introduction.php?cname=Corrosion Prevention&name=dynax S50
Practical classic test http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/Portals/0/docs/P...0%20v2.pdf Loads more on the internet showing the same result. I'm not having a go Mike. just want to point people in the right direction I understand that we all all have our favourite products, it doesn't matter if someone else doesn't use the same products - Autoglym for instance  Last edited by Zagato on 9th May 2011 8:14am. Edited 1 time in total |
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9th May 2011 7:36am |
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| ken Member Since: 18 Aug 2009 Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !! Posts: 4328
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I like beer and am willing to try any brand
Keepin a eye on this as I'm in Berks and thinkin the same re underbody treatment |
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9th May 2011 8:02am |
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| party monkey Member Since: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Oxon. Posts: 1311 
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Does anybody know if the Waxoyl Professional, as used by Rustmaster, is therefore any better than the Waxoyl for us mere mortals?
I hope it is as I've got a fair few quids worth of it stuck on the bottom of my 110  I say stuck.... I bloomin' well hope it is for a while, otherwise back down to Hatfield under guarantee
Don't fancy having Karate kid protection on the bottom of the motor....... Wax on.... Wax (fell) off
Going forward, think I'll have a go myself or perhaps just bribe Zag with beer vouchers to come and sort it for me  Jon - 110 td5 [sold]. Currently Defenderless. |
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9th May 2011 8:06am |
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| mrandmrsh Member Since: 31 May 2010 Location: Huddersfield Posts: 692 
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I am with you there Ken but as with the suggestion re Waxoyl I do find that certain beers, after prolonged use, can leak out of me although am happy to confirm this is unrelated to the ambient temperature.
I am waiting for some kind of forum service to have your car Zagged with all his tweaks and touches, maybe with the optional security add ons too to stop alarms being disabled, bonnet catches from being released, bonnets and doors from being stolen. There's a definite market there. Back on topic though, does Dinitrol need the same level of prep as Waxoyl does anyone know? One thing that worries me about DIY is I have read threads that say for Waxoyl you should have it properly steam cleaned etc etc. With my recently departed 1987 110 these concerns meant that for years I ummmed and aaahhhhed and in the end never did anything but watch the door bottoms fall out and bulkhead corners gently turn to dust. Reading Dinitrol's website it says it "is capable of good penetration into crevices and joints, preventing further corrosion even on damp or dirty surfaces." which makes me feel more comfortable that if there is less than perfect preparation (due to not having the tools to do it) but careful and thorough application it will provide cover. Craig |
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9th May 2011 10:08am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5006
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Jon, your Waxoyl should be fine in the box sections unless you go wading frequently
You may just have to spray/slap some more on the outside areas depending on what Waxoyl they have used e.g. stone chip, original etc. I don't want to worry anybody, there is nothing wrong with Waxoyl it's just that better products have been developed since which also have the bonus of being easier to apply. For instance you don't have to worry about thinning it down by 10% with white spirits as is suggested on the can to get it to spray out of the extansion nozzle from the can or stick it in a bucket of hot water and it doesn't matter if you get it on rubber, plastic or your precious tarmac driveway - it wont make anything bubble up or wrinkle out of shape I have heard the Waxoyl aresol cans are next to useless but that may have been down to the users but unlikely  I'ts probably more to do with the wax/white spirit etc mix. I wonder if they still sell the extension nozzle with a nail in the end for spraying 
Craig I thought of the same business opportunity myself I would love to go right through someones new vehicle and make it a sealed and sound product. With regards to any cavity wax or under-seal you really should clean off all the crud in the first place otherwise you are just sealing in the moisture that is held in the mud and dirt. It then needs to dry properly. I wouldn't think putting it on a damp surface would be a good idea. Then it would then be better to treat any rust with an acid based rust stopper then spray in your cavity wax and paint or spray on the outside stone chip/wax etc.
Getting mud out of all the crevices is difficult and near impossible from inside the chassis which is why it is important to do it from new if you are planning on keeping it long term. It maybe look nice waxed from the outside but the rot starts from the inside particularly around the weld joins. The outside has a chance to dry out whereas the inside and crevices e.g. rear cross-member, doesn't so much so it's the places you can't see or get a paint brush into that need a really good clean, dry and thorough spray of your chosen product. Chris Last edited by Zagato on 9th May 2011 1:16pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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9th May 2011 12:44pm |
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| stevie d Member Since: 09 Nov 2009 Location: Bishops Stortford Posts: 342 
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Dinitrol is really easy as long as you have a compressor.
By far the biggest job was getting the vehicle clean. I used predominately brown cavity wax 3125 and only used the black 4941 under the arches. You could easily spray the chassis inside and out and rear cross member and all metal components in a couple of hours - virtually no mess on me or the ground. I just used a couple of sheets of cardboard and moved then around for ground protection. I used about 2.5 tins of the brown 3125 and less than 1 tin of the black. Getting into bulkhead and doors takes a little bit more work - probably 3 to 4 hours if done properly. The silver spray gun that comes with the kit is very good, the spray head has excellent adjustment. I used the red (cheaper gun) for the cavities - worked very well, no blockages!! but has no spray adjuster so only sprays fairly thickly. (I sprayed the outside of the chassis with this before I realised the other gun was better), I have not bothered to over spray the chassis with the harder black 4941 as there doesn't seem much difference between the texture of the two. I decided to do it myself and bought a good compressor and some air tools as well as all the Dinitrol for about £450 and for this I will be able to do both landies and the Alfa - all for the price of having one vehicle done professionally and I am left with the compressor!! Hope this helps, Steve Defender 90 TD5 Station Wagon
Discovery 3 HSE BMW 330i Coupe |
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9th May 2011 1:09pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5006
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Wish my compressor worked
 but I used the aerosols, very easy no mess or blockages but maybe should have worn a mask. Much cheaper buying the cans that fit onto a compressor gun Think I will have to invest in a decent compressor they are so useful around the workshop  |
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9th May 2011 1:20pm |
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| party monkey Member Since: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Oxon. Posts: 1311
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Don't get me wrong Chris, I'm very pleased with the Rustmaster Waxoyl treatment. They had her for 3 days for prep,drying and well applied wax treatment to the underneath and from what I can tell, the cavities too. 6 months on and the underside coating is still in excellent shape. Granted no wading or offroading usage of any note in that time. I simply wondered if anyone knew if the professional version that they used, addressed some of your concerns over the retail product. Jon - 110 td5 [sold]. Currently Defenderless. |
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9th May 2011 2:00pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
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I've 'done' a lot of LR's and cars over many years and know that regardless of your product of choice to get the stuff into cavities and awkward areas some form of compressed air supply and suitable spray gun plus extension probe with 360 spray head makes the job so much easier. Failing that aerosol cans of your chosen goop come a reasonable second. DIY applicators like the things available from Waxoyl are just about ok for single vehicle use but can be temperamental at the best of times (even if you heat the fluid or add white spirit). A paintbrush will only enable to to get some coverage on easily accessible areas.
With regards Defenders, the whole process gets easier once you've done a few vehicles as with experience will show you the quickest way to thoroughly get the job done. There are lots of little shortcuts and tricks of getting the stuff where it's needed - and like I say once you've done a few vehicles you are a bit further down the road to knowing what and where they are. Doing clean new vehicles is relatively straight forward but those that are covered in crap and road salt are something else. Corrosion prevention of Land Rovers must be one of the most discussed topic on many forums over the years and there have been some very heated debates over the rights and wrongs of this or that product or this or that company. There is heaps of 'how to' info already both out there and on this forum - this really is nothing new Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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9th May 2011 2:16pm |
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