Home > Puma (Tdci) > Anyone else got puma bulkhead rust as bad |
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familymad Member Since: 13 Dec 2011 Location: Bucks Posts: 3481 |
The constant worry about rot is right up there with security worries in Defender ownership.
They were built poorly and down to a price. I believe the metal thickness/quality has reduced over the years. My S1 from 1951 is still on its original x member where as my various 1984/85 V8’s were dust. Would have been so easy to have galv’d the chassis and bulkhead at the factory 1951 80" S1 2.0 1995 110 300TDI 1995 90 300TDI |
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11th Jun 2019 7:12am |
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kaney Member Since: 01 Oct 2018 Location: Bolton Posts: 232 |
I'm guessing they may have been worried abou them coming back from being galvanised distorted as many are from what i have read
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11th Jun 2019 8:07am |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17391 |
I imagine that many would have been distorted before they were sent for galv too, going by the build quality!
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11th Jun 2019 4:07pm |
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Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013 |
I did write a whole lot on Galv bulkheads, distortion, etch priming, paint peeling, galv just being a sacrificial layer not a magic cure etc etc but deleted it as I didn,t want to add to your worries Kaney but it looks like you have come across it yourself now with research.
Familymad is quite right the early Series up to early Series II's had a better build quality with some components even being galvanised later Series II's on into Series III's... Leyland were not so good, with thinner metal (on the axles for instance going down from 3mm) and other shortcuts. One of the worst jobs ever must have been to show visiting groups around the Defender factory floor. A clear warning was given to groups saying that they would not enter into discussions about build quality issues.... it always came to it though! The same is true of the current LR range, they are all corroding somewhere underneath from new... it's no excuse but vehicles are only designed to last 7-12 years depending on the manufacturer and country sold! You have to treat Defenders of any age like classic cars... you cannot stop the rust in many areas just slow it right down. Just to add a more positive note I have finished rust prevention work on a 65 plate Defender today and the only corrosion is on the sill seam under the rear side door trims where they usually go but few realise (my client didn't) BUT the rear crossmember is as new, no corrosion around the windscreen which is rare, false window blocks still good, hinges good, cappings all good, rivets, engine bay brackets, interior fasteners apart from footwell all good etc etc and it has just come back from Morocco and stands outside not undercover. It has been helped along with Dinitrol and ACF-50 from new however. His wiper spigots are also rusty but now treated, plus rad bracket surround... OK I will stop now!! |
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11th Jun 2019 5:11pm |
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