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Home > Puma (Tdci) > Anyone else got puma bulkhead rust as bad
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20382

United Kingdom 
This is why you need internal Dinitrol or similar treatment.

That being said it's not a very popular job to do though due to £ and or being a messy and time consuming job to DIY.

These things should have been done since manufacture, but then LR had the RR folks to indulge bespoke hi spec finishing on.
Not for us ruffians. Whistle $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #770861 30th Apr 2019 11:55am
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kaney



Member Since: 01 Oct 2018
Location: Bolton
Posts: 232

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
Piece of mind for one thing helpful in the head knowing that something so expensive to repair has some protection
Post #770864 30th Apr 2019 11:59am
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Jamesgs



Member Since: 14 Apr 2015
Location: Altrincham
Posts: 4

England 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Bonatti Grey
It sounds as though you have somebody to do the work, I had similar issues put right very well by Alpine Restorations in Halifax. I have no link with them other than a satisfied customer. Its a bad feeling when you poke a hole in the bulkhead thinking it won't be anything ore than a rust spot from a stonechip !! Good luck !
Post #770925 30th Apr 2019 5:08pm
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kaney



Member Since: 01 Oct 2018
Location: Bolton
Posts: 232

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
Thanks James
Post #770926 30th Apr 2019 5:12pm
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kaney



Member Since: 01 Oct 2018
Location: Bolton
Posts: 232

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
Well just looked at two defenders one is a hard top on auto trader 2015 very little miles knocked about as door not sitting correctly and scratches here and there
Biggest thing I noticed was that the bulkhead looked hand painted on the what the old ones had vents and someone had done a dealer job between the bulkhead and window frame as well as that the passenger widow lug /bracket was sideways
Left the dealer after pointing out the problems without him giving me a price for mine after telling him what problems it had.
After that went to look at a utility 2009 at 21k cash that is and straight away I noticed blistering on the bulkhead I then looked at it inside and as on my pictures above in the corners I pushed the rust to reveal the rust flaking I then found the footwells stuck with insulation and couldn't investigate more without prising it up so I walked away from that too .
If you are looking at puma's please check the bulkhead look at my pictures above and scrape the inside between the dash and the two bolts for rust and look out for plates put over as they could be hiding the sins
I now know what is wrong with mine and was only looking at other defenders to try and save money thinking I am flogging a dead horse no offense but now I think I will crack on with this and make it last.
Post #772284 9th May 2019 2:29pm
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kaney



Member Since: 01 Oct 2018
Location: Bolton
Posts: 232

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
Yatesy wrote:
I’m also shocked at the amount of corrosion there, mine isn’t much older, how can there be such a big difference in similar aged vehicles? I hope you don’t mind me asking but what's the ball park figure for the repair only?

Still waiting for prices not ignoring your question
also thinking of using galvanised paint has anybody used this before as i think all the VW 's use it on there vehicles
Post #772291 9th May 2019 3:01pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
I'm not sure if this is the best place to mention this nor am I sure it's been mentioned before which rather surprises me if it hasn't as I'm sure it's a common probably which will certainly not be helping to prevent the corrosion of bulkhead and window blocks.

It's been raining quite a bit recently so decided to give the def a wash. While doing the windows I noticed water in the gulley below the window wasn't draining away where is should between the end of the gulley and the window blocks. The water not draining away at it should can't be a good thing so I suggest we all ensure this area is kept clean Thumbs Up
Post #776685 8th Jun 2019 1:57pm
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kaney



Member Since: 01 Oct 2018
Location: Bolton
Posts: 232

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
Hi Caterham
i have put dumdum all over the place to help i also have a problam with the roof just above where it joins the windscreen it seams to be splitting as its now getting in there only a tiny bit but enough for concern, i had Autoglass replace the screen and i think with pushing out and putting in it's disturbed the seam on the roof so when its dry i will rub down and use a silicon mastic then probley have the roof fully wrapped to cover up all the seams when i have sealled them all
As far as the bulkhead i have found someone (a bodyshop) to do the work in August just waiting on a cost
Post #776713 8th Jun 2019 4:40pm
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Roverrobbie



Member Since: 06 Feb 2016
Location: Orkney
Posts: 17

2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
I sprayed a load of Bilt Hamber in the LH wiper holes with the grommets iremoved , removed the hinges and sprayed in there and up the door post from underneath. Should slow any corrosion at least. Bilt Hamber seems to stay on pretty well underneath. I would recommend it.
Post #776714 8th Jun 2019 4:45pm
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kaney



Member Since: 01 Oct 2018
Location: Bolton
Posts: 232

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
Having taken some of the dash away to prise in to look it's def repairable but when the job is being done if all the dash dos'nt need to come out it will save a lot of money and i could use a sprayer with long extention for putting the dintrol, buit ham etc in
Has anyone any details on how to take off the top etc I took the top off the speedo and under to slacken the very top of the dash above but do i just unscrew the other side ie passenger and center part over the radio and switches
Post #776716 8th Jun 2019 4:58pm
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Zagato
Site Supporter


Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5013

United Kingdom 
Joe the Plumber wrote:
Whatever you end up with, if you want to protect it with a cavity wax, Waxoyl uses only the very latest 1960s technology.


Rolling with laughter

Seriously. Sorry to hear of your woes "Kaney". I have seen and treated rust forming on bulkheads on 15 plates, even 150K Anniversary models! I hope that makes you feel better but yours is an extreme example to rot out like that, salt usually plays its part somewhere but then the chassis, rear tub cappings etc would also be rotten. Some parts including chassis used to be stacked up outside the factory open to the elements without protection, I wonder if some bulkheads were left upside down outside also.

If only owners would get their vehicles treated, it would safe so much cost and hassle. The chassis is coated in a porous black paint. The moisture just goes straight through and hits the metal underneath hence rusty rear crossmembers. A lot of the body has no protection at all, simply bare metal under the rear cappings for instance, A pillars, box sections etc, no wonder they rust through in no time! Buy a Dinitrol kit folks and get them treated... it comes with long extensions for your A pillars. Thumbs Up
Post #776723 8th Jun 2019 5:33pm
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kaney



Member Since: 01 Oct 2018
Location: Bolton
Posts: 232

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
Hi Zagato
I have had chassie wax oiled when i got it after inspecting itwhist having a reg service.Regarding the bulkhead because the previous had it re-sprayed the signs were not showing through on the paint work and because of my ignorance to knowing about this issue before hand even though having Defenders before i had'nt come accross i in the past.
When the job is done and i get my small but niggling engine leak sorted I will get a full under body doors etc job done. The footwells and other parts are in tip top condition and i did look at them and the chassie before parting with the money.
I will also keep reg checks on the work to the bulkhead whilst being done.
Just had the wheel bearings done this week, Roof next job then door hinges as one i have noticed has broke seems theres always something to spend the hard earned cash on fixing than having a nice bit of something to add as an extra that i want to get for it
Post #776745 8th Jun 2019 6:51pm
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Zagato
Site Supporter


Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5013

United Kingdom 
Good luck with the work Kaney, you would'nt get the same journey out of a Yaris!! Thumbs Up
Post #776761 8th Jun 2019 8:13pm
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kaney



Member Since: 01 Oct 2018
Location: Bolton
Posts: 232

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
If it was a Yaris I'd have scrapped it by now
Post #776773 8th Jun 2019 10:16pm
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j17



Member Since: 20 Jan 2019
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 59

United Kingdom 
Mine's in the body shop at the moment - 2013 USW. Paint corrosion warranty repairs, they are replacing windscreen frame, firewall, b pillars both sides.

I asked the body shop if they could galvanize but they said no - they said they prime by hand so hopefully the job will last and finish will be better than factory?
Post #776970 10th Jun 2019 8:26pm
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