 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear Half Shaft Replacement |
 
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5804   
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Thanks Joe.
Update (sorry I have hijacked the thread) on my noise etc. Basically on driving it today, the jolt and noise are most apparent on moving from static in 1st, or from 1st to second. Note that this can be almost entirely negated by feathering the clutch. Seems to emanate from the rear, or at least that is where the slack seems to be picked up. Repeating yesterday, when driving at 90km if I lifted gently and reapplied gently, no clunck, making me think yesterday was more just about hearing things that weren’t there and some rough driving style. Also, throughout the exercise there were no defined bangs (as opposed to gentle slack clunk), if I feathered the clutch, and this included accelerating, bends, hairpins, etc. This makes me wonder if either the A-frame ball joint or damper bushes are to blame as surely these noises would be apparent in any movement of the rear quarters? I’ve been testing with the window open and music off!! Also, with regard to the diff, how quickly/suddenly can they fail? I changed the oil only six months ago and the removed oil had no filings in it that might indicate wear? Any further thoughts? Would feather overcome the flange wear/slack? Could this be a dud clutch? What signs if there were transfer box problems. Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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5th Mar 2019 4:00pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2414  
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I would suggest you drive (not to fast, straight) with central diff locked. If you have a major improvement then I would blame the central diff (but not only). Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later Last edited by MK on 5th Mar 2019 6:20pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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5th Mar 2019 4:19pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20348 
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Can you pin point a specific scenario on road it does it or is it sporadic? Sometimes, downhill, uphill or flat road with different leadings front to rear can make a difference. Damper bushes normally cause a shunt-shunt-shunt knock and goes if you gently accelerate or brake.
Driveline tends to be a single knock on braking or acceleration, A frame at low speed moving off etc. Rear halfshaft spline wear I found causes the hand brake to allow excessive body movement once handbrake engaged especially on an incline of any orientation. UJ wear is best detected by prop removal in my opinion, I checked mine many times in situ and showed no sign but it did straight away when removed. Output adaptor shaft wear would likely be in all scenarios if hade thought even in in-gear over run. Although I’m no expert abd don’t profess to be. Many others hate more knowledgable than me here by far but I’ve found these things many a time to be bushes rather than other things. But there are exceptions of course. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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5th Mar 2019 4:34pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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I think you're over-thinking it. It's far more likely to be a shock bush or ball joint. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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5th Mar 2019 6:57pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8024  
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rear half shaft Disco 1/2 and Defender 90 were the same. 110 had salisbury so different rear shafts
with Puma 110 onwards and P38 rear diff i think you will find that Disc 1,2 90 and 110 rear shafts are now the same. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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7th Mar 2019 12:26pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2414
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It would be interesting to know the rating of those one piece shafts. Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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7th Mar 2019 12:28pm |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5804
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I could be. Finally looked at the bush, clearly gone. 
 Click image to enlarge Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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7th Mar 2019 5:16pm |
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| Bluericky Member Since: 26 Jun 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 647 
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That could be the culprit. I imagine if you have one like that then it would be sensible to overhaul all the shock bushes ! I would https://www.instagram.com/hustynminepark/
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7th Mar 2019 6:02pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20348
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Does anyone have any tips for changing those top bushes at home properly or is a press a necessity?
I ought to check mine soon too thinking about it.  $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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7th Mar 2019 6:40pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372 
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No press needed, some washing up liquid as lube helps. It's an easy job.
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7th Mar 2019 6:47pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20348
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So a vice then and sockets similar to the process of swapping the prop UJ's I assume.
I tried Poly once, never ever again! $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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7th Mar 2019 7:15pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372
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I vaguely remember using a G-cramp to squeeze the new ones in, but I've renewed mine several times and never had any difficulty. It's easier than doing a propshaft uj.
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7th Mar 2019 7:33pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20348
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Yes, I've heard of that before.
$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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7th Mar 2019 7:39pm |
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| Bluericky Member Since: 26 Jun 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 647
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As Blackwolf says. They’re very easy to change , no sockets needed !
Frankly Grenadiers will drop out ! https://www.instagram.com/hustynminepark/ |
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7th Mar 2019 7:39pm |
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