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Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3667

Wheel Spacer watch out

Had fitted wheel spacers recently and got a bit of a wobble after fittingfrom the fronts. Turns out that it is the drive member nuts that were catching the alloys as the wheels went on now that they are 36degrees out. I was going to take them out (probably still will) and re torque them and hope the flats can line up better so that they don’t catch the alloy but I had a stinker of a day and snapping a drive member bolt off would have been the icing on the cake!!

Thought it worthy of sharing to save anyone making the same mistake.

17th Dec 2018 6:45pm

Badger110

Member Since: 06 Feb 2018
Location: South hams
Posts: 1039

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Buckingham Blue

17th Dec 2018 7:13pm

rallysteve

Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2222

2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green

You would be better swapping out the drive flange bolts for capheads.

Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread

17th Dec 2018 8:03pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17314

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

This is an age-old problem with 30mm spacers and Boosts, the (permanent) solution is to replace the drive flange bolts with hex socket head capscrews (widely and incorrectly known as "Allen bolts").

Edit: simultaneous post!

17th Dec 2018 8:04pm

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3667

Great call. Are they M10?

17th Dec 2018 8:22pm

rallysteve

Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2222

M10x1.5 45mm length. Either grade 10.9 or 12.9 will do the job nicely. Loctite and tighten to 65Nm.

Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread

17th Dec 2018 8:42pm

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3667

Cheers Steve, much appreciated.

17th Dec 2018 8:46pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20275

Mine are 12.9 and you can use a spring washer instead of Loctite, much less risk of bolt breakage for mainentence and they won't go anywhere..

17th Dec 2018 9:36pm

rallysteve

Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2222

We will have to diagree here. Lock spring/split lock washers are pretty useless.

If not using loctite you might as well just torque them up, you will stand a better chance of getting near the target preload without a lockwasher. Also a standard lockwasher designed for a Hex Head bolt/set screw is too large diameter for a Socket Head capscrew and is possible that it will interfere with the alloy in the same way that the current bolts do for the OP

Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread

17th Dec 2018 10:36pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20275

The spring washers I used were the exact dia of the hex cap head bolts I used.

Perhaps you are thinking of a different type to what I am?
Blackwolf I believe uses the same set up as me with no problem and alleviates the issue that the OP had originally complained about.
(In fact recommended this set up to me, and does indeed work well.)

Bear in mind there are different types of washers, and I used 'spring washers' and not 'lock washers'.

17th Dec 2018 11:12pm

miker

Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1762

Diameter excepted, I am also fairly convinced that spring washers do very little, based on the research I've done.

17th Dec 2018 11:24pm

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7983

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

Nord locs work well. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

18th Dec 2018 6:56am

rallysteve

Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2222

We seem to be over-complicating matters here. The most important thing here is to ensure that the bolts acheive as close to optimum preload as possible. This is done by using a torque wrench in this application (which itself is massively innacurate and dependant on so many factors).

Vibration loosening shouldnt really be an issue on the rotation of the hub, your wheel nuts dont use any form of supplementary locking means and they are a little more critical.

Drive flange bolts usually break as they have been over or under torqued or because someone has just wedged some rusty bolts back into a rusty thread still full of old threadlock and jammed them in.

Just run an M10 tap through the holes, use some nice new bolts with or without threadlock and torque them to 65Nm.

Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread

18th Dec 2018 8:00am

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7983

Possibly, but we found as you ran larger tyres 37, 40s and 44s that if drive member bolts werent wired or nord locked then they came undone, was just passing on a solution. it worked for us. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

18th Dec 2018 12:56pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20275

JST- I was going to me mention your solution but I couldn’t remember who it was that used the Nordlocs.
Of course this was yourself.

So there are multiple solutions possible for the OP to decide what they might like to chose to do

18th Dec 2018 2:45pm

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