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v8bobber Member Since: 26 Aug 2012 Location: pembrokeshire Posts: 449 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
There’s another similar thread on the go at the minute. It was lack of decent preload on mine which made the wheels wobble.
If everything else is in good order I wouldn’t say there’s much point in doing any more that sorting the shims. Unfortunately the chrome ball was a bit worse for wear on mine so I did everything 🙄 |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17722 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Agree. If everything looks sound but the preload is light, try reshimming. Only if there is evidence of other defects, or there are no shims left, should you need to replace the pins and bearings.
One handy thing about reshimming is that generally you have to dismantle very little, you can support the swivel housing on a jack, take out the top pin, remove the thinnest shim, replace the pin, and release the jack then feel the preload. If you're lucky the job is done. |
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pannawonica Member Since: 21 Nov 2010 Location: Clackline Western Australia Posts: 568 ![]() ![]() |
Thanks for the heads up!👍 the chrome balls look in very good fettle, and truth be know how the where originally set up at the factory! I have found previously loose hub stake nuts! Is there a preferred torque to set them up other than the factory setting?
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17722 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Do you mean the swivel preload or the hub nut? |
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pannawonica Member Since: 21 Nov 2010 Location: Clackline Western Australia Posts: 568 ![]() ![]() |
Swivel preload, thank you! I should have been more clear!
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dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 ![]() |
Slot the brake pipe bracket post 2004 brake hose fix in place spring clips
Last edited by dorsetsmith on 22nd Aug 2018 8:50am. Edited 1 time in total |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17722 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Swivel preload - if possible use a spring balance to set to the factory setting. However if you are simply removing shims (as mentioned above) you can't really do this since to set as per factory spec you have to remove the swivel housing oil seal and also strip the stub axle etc off the swivel housing. If you don't remove these, you will set the preload lower than it should be due to the friction and inertia of the seal and stub axle giving you a false high reading on the balance.
If I am doing a quick shim job I do it as I posted earlier and set the preload so it feels "right" with the seal etc still in place, in other words it should be a little stiff to move but not too stiff. It's easy when you've done a few but almost impossible to describe. If you can't turn the steering at all when you've finished, it's too tight! As Dorset says, while you're at it slot the brake pipe brackets to make caliper removal easy in the future. |
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pannawonica Member Since: 21 Nov 2010 Location: Clackline Western Australia Posts: 568 ![]() ![]() |
Once again, thank you for the information given!
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pannawonica Member Since: 21 Nov 2010 Location: Clackline Western Australia Posts: 568 ![]() ![]() |
Anyhow I got busy today and attacked the swivel bearings! Funny thing is when I got it on the hoist I tried the 12 o’clock six o’clock and 3 and nine 9 . Nothing so the easy one first driver side, disconnected the steering and without anything else the hub slopped around without anything like the torque required to set WSM style! Anyhow played around a bit removing shims and as BW said it can be done without the full strip down. So I removed progressively until I added shims back! Anyhow it was beer o’clock so I will test out and report tomorrow! Hardest part was removing the bolts front the top swivel bearing was worried they would snap off in the hub with land rovers glue on them!
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pannawonica Member Since: 21 Nov 2010 Location: Clackline Western Australia Posts: 568 ![]() ![]() |
Swivels and death wobble sorted!
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