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pannawonica



Member Since: 21 Nov 2010
Location: Clackline Western Australia
Posts: 568

Australia 
Swivel pins
Just had the tyres looked at and balanced and still getting a little wheel wobble! My 2011 2.4 defender is just short of 100KKMS . Had it up on the ramps and every usual suspects look good, panhard, track rod ends and steering box and link!i have not yet checked the swivel preload! My question is if I find that it’s incorrect is it worth correcting with shim removal or do I need to replace everything associated? Thumbs Up
Post #724523 21st Aug 2018 8:33am
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v8bobber



Member Since: 26 Aug 2012
Location: pembrokeshire
Posts: 448

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Java Black
There’s another similar thread on the go at the minute. It was lack of decent preload on mine which made the wheels wobble.

If everything else is in good order I wouldn’t say there’s much point in doing any more that sorting the shims.

Unfortunately the chrome ball was a bit worse for wear on mine so I did everything 🙄
Post #724534 21st Aug 2018 10:01am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17458

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Agree. If everything looks sound but the preload is light, try reshimming. Only if there is evidence of other defects, or there are no shims left, should you need to replace the pins and bearings.

One handy thing about reshimming is that generally you have to dismantle very little, you can support the swivel housing on a jack, take out the top pin, remove the thinnest shim, replace the pin, and release the jack then feel the preload. If you're lucky the job is done.
Post #724544 21st Aug 2018 10:56am
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pannawonica



Member Since: 21 Nov 2010
Location: Clackline Western Australia
Posts: 568

Australia 
Thanks for the heads up!👍 the chrome balls look in very good fettle, and truth be know how the where originally set up at the factory! I have found previously loose hub stake nuts! Is there a preferred torque to set them up other than the factory setting? Thumbs Up Very Happy just noticed the other similar thread! Thumbs Up
Post #724548 21st Aug 2018 11:14am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17458

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
pannawonica wrote:
Is there a preferred torque to set them up other than the factory setting?


Do you mean the swivel preload or the hub nut?
Post #724596 21st Aug 2018 3:09pm
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pannawonica



Member Since: 21 Nov 2010
Location: Clackline Western Australia
Posts: 568

Australia 
Swivel preload, thank you! I should have been more clear! Thumbs Up I intend too sort it at the weekend and slot the brake pipe bracket at the same time ! Thumbs Up Very Happy
Post #724735 21st Aug 2018 11:43pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

Slot the brake pipe bracket post 2004 brake hose fix in place spring clips

Last edited by dorsetsmith on 22nd Aug 2018 7:50am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #724742 22nd Aug 2018 7:06am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17458

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Swivel preload - if possible use a spring balance to set to the factory setting. However if you are simply removing shims (as mentioned above) you can't really do this since to set as per factory spec you have to remove the swivel housing oil seal and also strip the stub axle etc off the swivel housing. If you don't remove these, you will set the preload lower than it should be due to the friction and inertia of the seal and stub axle giving you a false high reading on the balance.

If I am doing a quick shim job I do it as I posted earlier and set the preload so it feels "right" with the seal etc still in place, in other words it should be a little stiff to move but not too stiff. It's easy when you've done a few but almost impossible to describe. If you can't turn the steering at all when you've finished, it's too tight!

As Dorset says, while you're at it slot the brake pipe brackets to make caliper removal easy in the future.
Post #724747 22nd Aug 2018 7:32am
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pannawonica



Member Since: 21 Nov 2010
Location: Clackline Western Australia
Posts: 568

Australia 
Once again, thank you for the information given! Thumbs Up I didn’t realise to do it factory the oil seal etc had too be removed! However I will do it without by degree, test and go back if required! Complete rebuild, bearings and oils seals if doing it factory. It would be the correct way when stripping right down to that degree I think if this does not improve or Rectify the problem! Thumbs Up Very Happy
Post #724973 23rd Aug 2018 1:06am
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pannawonica



Member Since: 21 Nov 2010
Location: Clackline Western Australia
Posts: 568

Australia 
Anyhow I got busy today and attacked the swivel bearings! Funny thing is when I got it on the hoist I tried the 12 o’clock six o’clock and 3 and nine 9 . Nothing so the easy one first driver side, disconnected the steering and without anything else the hub slopped around without anything like the torque required to set WSM style! Anyhow played around a bit removing shims and as BW said it can be done without the full strip down. So I removed progressively until I added shims back! Anyhow it was beer o’clock so I will test out and report tomorrow! Hardest part was removing the bolts front the top swivel bearing was worried they would snap off in the hub with land rovers glue on them! Thumbs Up Laughing
Post #726613 1st Sep 2018 10:32am
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pannawonica



Member Since: 21 Nov 2010
Location: Clackline Western Australia
Posts: 568

Australia 
Swivels and death wobble sorted! Thumbs Up Laughing.All it took was the removal of one of the fat shims on each side! As I was adjusting and testing I will go back tomorrow and loctite the top swivel bearing bolts as factory. They where difficult too remove with the factory blue stuff on them, worked up quite a thirst! Rolling with laughter
Post #726734 2nd Sep 2018 8:45am
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