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Siwynne



Member Since: 04 Nov 2016
Location: West lancs
Posts: 587
England 
That’s interesting. I will build with the new one I have and investigate the different pump options for a future swap.
Post #972851 29th Nov 2022 6:43pm
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Siwynne



Member Since: 04 Nov 2016
Location: West lancs
Posts: 587
England 
Had a couple of hours at it. And crank is back in with pistons and bottom end buttoned up. Head has been cleaned of massive amounts of carbon. The egr is getting blanked and deleted. Valves have all been cleaned and lapped. If this doesn’t make a huge difference to performance I’ll be surprised. New oil pump is in. Citroen makers mark, last one was fomoco.

Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge
Post #973341 3rd Dec 2022 8:08pm
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Screbble



Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2108
United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
Great progress - and probably very therapeutic…

As you anticipate, you’ll notice the difference when it’s all up and running.

Watch the Magpies don’t steal those valves👍
Post #973356 4th Dec 2022 9:17am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3430
Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Good progress Thumbs Up

Siwynne wrote:
The egr is getting blanked and deleted.


I was under the impression that the DPF works in conjunction with the EGR amongst other things. But glad to be corrected. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #973358 4th Dec 2022 10:17am
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Siwynne



Member Since: 04 Nov 2016
Location: West lancs
Posts: 587
England 
I will speak to a remap co tomorrow but Ive rebuilt a couple of engines in the past but never one with an egr. The carbon was unbelievable. If it can go it’s going
Post #973360 4th Dec 2022 11:01am
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Siwynne



Member Since: 04 Nov 2016
Location: West lancs
Posts: 587
England 
The instructions with the new pump say to fill it with a heavy gearbox type oil to ensure it primes. I intend to do this upside down via the pick up tube then put the sump on and turn it back over to avoid spillage. Can anybody foresee an issue doing this way
Post #973367 4th Dec 2022 1:33pm
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Siwynne



Member Since: 04 Nov 2016
Location: West lancs
Posts: 587
England 
Cleaned and refitted the inlet manifold last night. The carbon and junk in there was so wrong. It took an hour and a half with bottle brushes and over cleaner then pressure washing to get it near clean.
Egr is definitely being blanked and mapped out having spoken to a number of tuning companies it is common practice
Post #973597 6th Dec 2022 12:05pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410
United Kingdom 
I am a big big fan of this Lucas oil stabiliser for assembling components like this.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lucas-Oil-10001-H...B000AS1XYO

It is slightly sticky so provides that instant lubrication on startup, it also has the added advantage of not dripping on you if you are underneath it or spilling over your worktop.

The equivalent is the Lucas assembly lube. Both work well.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lucas-Oil-10152-A...&psc=1
Post #973614 6th Dec 2022 1:41pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410
United Kingdom 
Siwynne wrote:
Cleaned and refitted the inlet manifold last night. The carbon and junk in there was so wrong. It took an hour and a half with bottle brushes and over cleaner then pressure washing to get it near clean.
Egr is definitely being blanked and mapped out having spoken to a number of tuning companies it is common practice


Ha I know how you feel. I recently cleaned out the inlet manifold on my Freelander 2 TD4 and blimey as with yourself absolutely caked on in there... Blanked off the EGR at the same time and would you believe it the combination of a clean inlet manifold and no EGR gasses and the engine starts better and is more perky Thumbs Up
Post #973615 6th Dec 2022 1:44pm
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Siwynne



Member Since: 04 Nov 2016
Location: West lancs
Posts: 587
England 
geobloke wrote:
I am a big big fan of this Lucas oil stabiliser for assembling components like this.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lucas-Oil-10001-H...B000AS1XYO

It is slightly sticky so provides that instant lubrication on startup, it also has the added advantage of not dripping on you if you are underneath it or spilling over your worktop.

The equivalent is the Lucas assembly lube. Both work well.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lucas-Oil-10152-A...&psc=1


I regularly rebuild air cooled Vw engines so have a similar assembly lube to hand. Similar to smooth strawberry jam. This is taking significantly longer than the Vw ones take me
Post #973667 6th Dec 2022 6:11pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410
United Kingdom 
In which case i shall not offer you any more eggs to suck... Rolling with laughter Rolling Eyes
Post #973674 6th Dec 2022 7:14pm
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Siwynne



Member Since: 04 Nov 2016
Location: West lancs
Posts: 587
England 
This arrived today so that’s tonight’s job. Hope the turbo is not beyond repair.

Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge
Post #973692 6th Dec 2022 8:05pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3430
Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Siwynne wrote:
The instructions with the new pump say to fill it with a heavy gearbox type oil to ensure it primes. I intend to do this upside down via the pick up tube then put the sump on and turn it back over to avoid spillage. Can anybody foresee an issue doing this way


Seems to match what was said on the site I linked in an earlier post regarding the vane pumps, where there is a 10minute oil drain limit, whereby it can potentially air lock and not build pressure if the pump is not re submerged in oil.

So I guess after priming with heavy oil, and putting in the sump, as soon as you rotate right side up, better fill up with oil. Just don’t forget to keep it always upright! 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #973710 6th Dec 2022 8:56pm
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Siwynne



Member Since: 04 Nov 2016
Location: West lancs
Posts: 587
England 
geobloke wrote:
In which case i shall not offer you any more eggs to suck... Rolling with laughter Rolling Eyes

All comment and advice appreciated
It may be something I’ve missed and that would be galling if it doesn’t work when it goes back in
Post #973736 6th Dec 2022 9:47pm
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Siwynne



Member Since: 04 Nov 2016
Location: West lancs
Posts: 587
England 
Dinnu wrote:
Siwynne wrote:
The instructions with the new pump say to fill it with a heavy gearbox type oil to ensure it primes. I intend to do this upside down via the pick up tube then put the sump on and turn it back over to avoid spillage. Can anybody foresee an issue doing this way


Seems to match what was said on the site I linked in an earlier post regarding the vane pumps, where there is a 10minute oil drain limit, whereby it can potentially air lock and not build pressure if the pump is not re submerged in oil.

So I guess after priming with heavy oil, and putting in the sump, as soon as you rotate right side up, better fill up with oil. Just don’t forget to keep it always upright!


Pump primed. And plenty of assembly lube used everywhere else. Hope it’s enough to keep everything slippy
Post #973757 7th Dec 2022 6:28am
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