 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Which sound proofing? |
 
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1846  
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I'll defer to Steve on what to use to clean panels. Panel wipe possibly is better, but I've been giving a quick once over using thinners on a paper towel.
Rather than a hairdryer, I have a 'heat gun' - essentially the same thing obviously. When fitting silent coat on slightly colder days I've been just lightly warming both the panel and silent coat pad before fitting. Then using a soft roller to make sure it's stuck. Warming it helps it flex round bends etc. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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18th Apr 2019 7:24am |
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| turnah Member Since: 30 Sep 2018 Location: Lancashire Posts: 40  
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A few weeks ago I used 2mm silent coat and 6mm dodo liner to amazing effect. It was a little bit of a struggle to get the factory rubber back on over it though and no longer can pin it in using the same holes.
The driver's door requires a little bit of a heavier shut to close now; so it's on the cusp of the max size at the sides. To clean I just wiped down with white spirit, and then heated the mat with a heat gun before sticking. It ain't budging now. |
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18th Apr 2019 8:04am |
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| RANGER1312 Member Since: 04 Feb 2018 Location: Fylde Coast Posts: 125 
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A lot of the replies when referring to silent coat or other alternatives recommend then using soft cell foam over the top, do you still need to use the soft cell foam with Dynamat or is that an all in 1 product so to speak? |
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14th May 2019 5:49am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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No, Dynamat, Silent Coat, et al are all essentially the same product and all benefit from foam over the top. The Dynamat type products are designed to stop panel reverberation by adding mass whereas the foam absorbs airborne sound, so they compliment each other. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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14th May 2019 6:52am |
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| RANGER1312 Member Since: 04 Feb 2018 Location: Fylde Coast Posts: 125
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That makes sense Darren!
Researching it shows that people use different depth cell foams in different areas, is this recommended depths due to sound coming from those areas, more a case of what will fit in different locations or simply just people's preference? |
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14th May 2019 8:02pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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I think it's personal preference, to be honest. Some people also use thicker Dynamat, etc. Psychologically, more must be better but given the huge benefit the regular stuff gives, I think I'd be hard pressed to be able to tell the difference.
Personally, I've used 6mm everywhere that I thought it was practical to do so, which basically excludes the floors and wheel boxes. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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14th May 2019 8:16pm |
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| RANGER1312 Member Since: 04 Feb 2018 Location: Fylde Coast Posts: 125
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What did you use on the floor and seat boxes?
When you say seat boxes is that the exterior of the seat boxes or did you do inside too? |
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14th May 2019 8:34pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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I still used Silent Coat but didn't overlay with foam as I was concerned about it being too compressible. I also figured that carpet would perform a similar function.
I said wheel boxes, which are the arches in the rear load bay. I treated the interior only. When I get around to it, I plan to spray the underside of the wheel boxes with some sort of stone chip but the internal sound proofing has done such a good job that it's dropped way down the priority list. I haven't done the passenger floors or front seat box yet but I'll almost certainly just confine it to strategically placed Silent Coat, as I don't want to add too much thickness under the fitted rubber matting. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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14th May 2019 8:48pm |
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| RANGER1312 Member Since: 04 Feb 2018 Location: Fylde Coast Posts: 125
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Apologies Darren, I read it wrong.
I'm guessing it's a balancing act between being effective and still being able to fasten down carpet or fitted matting |
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14th May 2019 9:03pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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Yeah, there's always a compromise somewhere. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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15th May 2019 6:40pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20468
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I had the same mindset with mine too, and glad I did the same as you did as well because the fit is close to the door cards. In fact even then they rub, but I do have rubber matting and corner protectors too. When I did mine I did the exterior of the front seat boxes and front floor pan. Inside, I did the seatbox floor only but not over the seams on the inside as I like to be able to ACF 50 the seams for obvious reasons. How did you go about doing the doors?  No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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15th May 2019 8:41pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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The doors are something of a work in progress on this one. Basically, I've only done one rear so far, as I had to take it apart to fix a broken central locking wire. So, whilst in there, I added some Silent Coat to as much of the door skin as possible, which isn't a great deal on the rear doors:
 Click image to enlarge It's amazing the difference that even that small amount makes though. A lot more solid-sounding than the other doors. When I fitted new doors to my old 90, I followed the same principle, although the shape of the doors did allow for a little more material to be installed: Click image to enlarge It's very easy to go mad with these and strip the doors down to their component parts to access the upper panel. It's really not necessary though and is a good demonstration of how adding a relatively small amount of mass can make a huge difference. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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15th May 2019 8:51pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20468
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Thank you for the pics very helpful.
I can't see much benefit to Dynanatting the top upper panel section really anyway. Not to mention all the work involved just to get at it.
So really it's just a case of fitting it to the accessible lower area, that seems the location where most of the reverberation stems from. I suppose due to the semi hollow make up of the door with the steel frame stringest around the extremity and upper middle the lower middle hollow area was bound to be like it. I haven't done mine on the doors for one reason and that is I haven't got to the stage of needing to access them yet. I will shortly, likely this year for other work to be done but there isn't any point in taking it out, then putting it all back over and over anyway as the door cards don't take kindly to being removed too often with the fixing points etc.
**EDITED** On a slightly different note, the only reason I mentioned a hairdryer on previous posts originally was to avoid two risks from a heat gun. One, that it can be far too hot very quickly. Easily by accident Two, very easy to burn yourself on the metal section of one and or melt something else in the vicinity. Of course a heat gun is fine on the lowest setting, used with caution and probably heats up quicker but a hairdryer is a bit safer. The choice is up to who ever is installing and what they have to use but I'd exercise caution on using a heatgun because of the above. And of course keep away any flamables.  No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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15th May 2019 9:16pm |
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| PCM Member Since: 25 Jan 2019 Location: North East Posts: 877
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I added 3mm silent coat (black) to mine then added carpet (exmore trim premium job) to the lower bits and 10mm foam to the roof etc...
Only issue I had was closing the doors due to the seat box. Had to strip a slice of silent coat off the corners to claw back a bit of room. Now doors shut (ok, but still need a good solid Pell) and you can see where the doors run on the carpet below. Very very quiet inside up to 50mph then gets noisy again as wind noise just takes over. Also had to modify the carpet a bit as battery box access was a bit restricted. Click image to enlarge |
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15th May 2019 9:55pm |
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