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ChrisCM



Member Since: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Cornwall uk
Posts: 572

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
Winch install
I am about to instal a winch on the front of my 2010 Puma 110SW. Can anyone suggest a suitable, easy to access, earthing point near the front of the vehicle or should I just go back to the battery with the negative cable?

Thanks,

Chris 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black.
Post #618645 22nd Apr 2017 12:38pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8032

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
For best winch motor results go back to the battery, no question. It will pull better for longer and last longer. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #618649 22nd Apr 2017 12:44pm
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Daisy90



Member Since: 01 Feb 2015
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 845

United Kingdom 2001 Defender 90 Td5 SW Alveston Red
I second the above comment also Thumbs Up
Post #618715 22nd Apr 2017 7:10pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
positive wants to go right back to the battery.

the earth could go on the chassis next to the battery, electrically its little different to taking that right to the battery, but it only saves you about a foot of cable.
Post #618763 22nd Apr 2017 9:15pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
3rd above comments and to add I did not do this first time and ended up melting my handbrake cable solid and engaged... Not a fun afternoons green laning... Always direct to the battery/ies...
Post #618835 23rd Apr 2017 8:59am
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ChrisCM



Member Since: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Cornwall uk
Posts: 572

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
Thanks guys,

Back to the battery it is!

Now I have to find a decent new stud type terminal connector for the negative pole on the battery, there appears to be a lot of rubbish out there. I wonder why Land Rover fitted that weird clamp to the negative and an excellent bus bar type to the positive?

Chris 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black.
Post #618842 23rd Apr 2017 9:46am
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Devon-Rover



Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: South Devon
Posts: 916

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Aintree Green
Quote:

Thanks guys,

Back to the battery it is!

Now I have to find a decent new stud type terminal connector for the negative pole on the battery, there appears to be a lot of rubbish out there. I wonder why Land Rover fitted that weird clamp to the negative and an excellent bus bar type to the positive?

Chris



You're not the only one to think that over the years it is a rubbish idea ultility wise and probably the cheapest. Rolling Eyes

I've used the Durite ones in the past. https://www.devon4x4.com/battery-terminal-48164.html
Post #618845 23rd Apr 2017 9:59am
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ChrisCM



Member Since: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Cornwall uk
Posts: 572

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
Thanks for the Devon 4x4 link, that's the type I'm after, I suppose that these will be high quality compared to the eBay £2.99 jobbies!

Chris 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black.
Post #618847 23rd Apr 2017 10:04am
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Quote:
I wonder why Land Rover fitted that weird clamp to the negative and an excellent bus bar type to the positive?


Because you can connect to the other end of the neg lead where it joins the chassis, electrically it's the same as connecting to the battery terminal. And it saves them a fortune in manufacturing.
Post #618929 23rd Apr 2017 6:31pm
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pannawonica



Member Since: 21 Nov 2010
Location: Clackline Western Australia
Posts: 568

Australia 
That negative clamp POS, I chopped it off and replaced with a clamp from the Mobilecentre! Can't comment price wise but all the gear I have purchased from them has been top notch Thumbs Up I also increased the size of the earth too 53mm when I did my blue sea install similar too BP man! Thumbs Up
Post #619031 24th Apr 2017 6:58am
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
zsd-puma wrote:
Because you can connect to the other end of the neg lead where it joins the chassis, electrically it's the same as connecting to the battery terminal. And it saves them a fortune in manufacturing.


This is what I assumed would be ok on mine ... I sure made sure I cleaned up that spade on the chassis end of the earth cable and that the winch one went straight on top...

Positive I spent the time getting it to the battery itself. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #619046 24th Apr 2017 8:18am
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
ChrisCM wrote:
Thanks for the Devon 4x4 link, that's the type I'm after, I suppose that these will be high quality compared to the eBay £2.99 jobbies!

Chris


You don't have to spend a fortune on a battery terminal if you want to change it.

http://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-com...overs.html

Plenty there for around £3 and very high quality, they also sell the cable too and ring terminals.

I've bought a lot from Autosparks, i can't think of anything that was poor quality.
Post #619090 24th Apr 2017 11:24am
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roel



Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

Netherlands 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Caledonian Blue
I have 2 positive and negative cables. Twisted Evil

On the negative side I have one cable to the battery and one to the engine.

I also have 2 positive cables to my master switch. One from the battery and one from the altenator. Why? because about 100 amps come from the Altenator. Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)
Post #619225 24th Apr 2017 7:02pm
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Miggit



Member Since: 09 Mar 2017
Location: Milton Keynes
Posts: 72

United Kingdom 
If your going to make your own cables then this stuff is good quality.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232046811588?_tr...EBIDX%3AIT I've just used it on my RRC, and it is very heavy duty (35mm) I also used http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201618902641?_tr...EBIDX%3AIT and a blow lamp and rather a lot of solder!! finished off with some self adhesive heat shrink..

The biggest pain was getting the terminals to stay put for the solder treatment, in the end I found that a big pair of water pump pliers were the best thing to squish the terminal.... it was too big for my crimping pliers that go up to 25mm Sad I then heated up the eye end of the terminal and added solder at the cable end, eventually it all went silver... And the heat was only applied as needed, not constantly. I ended up with 3 leads that I needed for not much more than the cost of one Thumbs Up RRC 2.4 TD... it's either a stretched 90 or shrunken 110!!
ML 270CDI
Post #619226 24th Apr 2017 7:04pm
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Keen to learn from wiser folk but I was taught not to rely on solder for lugs, idea being that if it were to generate heat that the solder may soften and the connection get loose. The lug had to be mechanically sound (crimped with the appropriate tool) before solder were considered, but by then it was redundant... Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

Last edited by agentmulder on 24th Apr 2017 8:59pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #619249 24th Apr 2017 7:42pm
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