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Landymad90

Member Since: 19 Nov 2020
Location: South Coast
Posts: 4

2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Aintree Green

2008 2.4 tdci Radical loss of power

Really hope someone out there can come up with a few ideas to help me out, My 2008 Defender 90 SW 2.4 tdci has a peculiar fault.

The car starts and drives as sweet as a nut for between 3 and 4 miles then within the space of about 200 yards has a very strong loss of power to the point that it will struggle to do 5mph in 1st on the flat. If I pull over it will tick over just fine, no erratic tick over problems . If I leave it parked and come back two hours later it will do another few miles before doing the same thing again. When the fault is on with the vehicle parked, if I put the accelerator to the floor I can maybe get up to 1500 rpm but the second I lift the clutch...no power. It's a totally standard car. I do not get any warning lights and they are all working.

So far I've done the following:

Checked for fault codes - none present
New EGR valve.
Fuel filter changed, huge amount of gunge in the one that came of!
New fuel vapor temperature Sensor (I think some call that the VCV?)
New Air filter
Several times after the fault has come on I've undone the fuel filler cap and there isn't any sign of a vacuum in the tank.

After each of the above jobs I've test driven it and found (when using the exact same route) that it always fails within about 500 yards of the last time so the fault symptoms have remained exactly the same.

I'm thinking about removing (one by one) a sensor or two, can anyone suggest which ones can be removed and the car can still be driven. Doing that might give me a few clews?

Thanks very much!

3rd Dec 2020 7:55pm

Bluest

Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4209

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black

I believe it will run with the MAF disconnected. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS

3rd Dec 2020 9:32pm

Landymad90

Member Since: 19 Nov 2020
Location: South Coast
Posts: 4

Thank you Bluest will try that one first.

3rd Dec 2020 10:35pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17372

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

I don't know what you mean by "fuel vapor temperature Sensor" but if it isn't the Volume Control Valve then I'd certainly change the VCV.

3rd Dec 2020 10:59pm

Landymad90

Member Since: 19 Nov 2020
Location: South Coast
Posts: 4

Thanks blackwolf. I had seen on another post you had suggested this to someone else who has similar problems. The part I changed is LR009837 see pic, is that it? It fits into the back of the fuel pump.

Thank you!

Click image to enlarge

4th Dec 2020 12:27pm

Johan H

Member Since: 12 Oct 2017
Location: Helsingfors
Posts: 36

I might be totally off here, but I had a similar problem and it turned out the vanes inside the turbo were sticking, try moving the actuator rod on the side of the turbo. You can undo the c-washer and move it all the way. Sometimes it moves freely when cold and sticks when hot.

When I had this problem I just moved the rod back and forth, sprayed WD40 all over
it until it started moving freely again.

4th Dec 2020 12:38pm

Landymad90

Member Since: 19 Nov 2020
Location: South Coast
Posts: 4

Thanks Johan I will take a look at that!

4th Dec 2020 12:43pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17372

Landymad90 wrote:
Thanks blackwolf. I had seen on another post you had suggested this to someone else who has similar problems. The part I changed is LR009837 see pic, is that it? It fits into the back of the fuel pump.

Thank you!

Click image to enlarge

Yes, that's the thing. It actually controls the flow of fuel from the LP side of the fuel pump to the HP side (hence the name, Volume Control Valve), and by so doing is how the common rail pressure is regulated. It is a very fragile component and is usually destroyed by dirt or water in the fuel.

4th Dec 2020 2:31pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20351

And if the VCV fitting goes anything like mine it’ll be fine and straight foreword and won’t need any programming either after. I would however disconnect the battery when you change it though.
(General safety procedure).
Mine came from PF Jones, couldn’t fault it running like a dream now. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

4th Dec 2020 3:48pm

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