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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Wipac Crystal Halogen headlamps and better bulbs - worth it?

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miker

Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1768

I changed from (murky old) quadoptics to decent wipac crystals on standard bulbs. The difference was quite literally night and day. I'll probably get some osram nightbreakers in there too.

Definitely a good idea to upgrade the loom, I will be sorting out mine with a relay feed at some point, same for main beams.

I don't honestly believe the LED bulb replacements can be "right". A halogen reflector is designed to reflect the light outputted by a linear bulb filament, not 2 (or more) Cree XP-L LED's, which are pretty much a point source. I'd also be interested to know how many LED's are on each "bulb". Looks like 2, one for dipped, one for main. A Cree XPL is only good for 10W @ 1100Lumen....

Personally I don't like the cool colour temperature for driving. The warmer, higher CRI light output of a halogen is much kinder on my eyes than the harsh white of current High output LED's.

8th Sep 2016 10:33pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20546

Stacey007 - Stainless headlight bezels do nothing bar prevent corrosion issues which as standard they are prone to rusting out.
Photos:

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge
(Poor quality photo sadly, sun was a bit bright!)

Veetee - Yes, that sounds about right. I'm 99% sure LR are flogging a generic 'Lucas' headlight switch as genuine for a LOT higher price. (Maybe I'm wrong?)
Does the switch take current for the headlights only or for sidelights etc too?
If just headlights that's fine but if sidelights too mine would be reduced a little by running LEDs.

Miker - I have a similar mindset to you as well on those.
Only thing that has put me off going for LED headlights is cost.
And ice issues, but that is so unlikely and such a small problem / issue its not worth dicussing unless you went to cold countries.

8th Sep 2016 11:00pm

Dave T

Member Since: 07 Jun 2013
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 490

One of the biggest differences is made by modifying the wiring to the lights, adding in relays to take the power rather than the switch. It resulted in the voltage at the bulb on mine going from 10 volts to 13 volts. Can be bought from Paddocks for under £30, I bought the equipment and did my own

http://www.paddockspares.com/boomslang-per...-loom.html 2015 RRS Autobiography SDV6
1994 Def 90 300tdi

9th Sep 2016 6:10am

MartinK

Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2665

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey

Quote:
One of the biggest differences is made by modifying the wiring to the lights, adding in relays to take the power rather than the switch. It resulted in the voltage at the bulb on mine going from 10 volts to 13 volts. Can be bought from Paddocks for under £30, I bought the equipment and did my own

Assume the upgraded headlight loom isn't as important with LED (I have trucklites) as the draw is lower than "normal" bulbs? Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)

9th Sep 2016 6:56am

Dave T

Member Since: 07 Jun 2013
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 490

that would depend on how old your switch was when you fitted the I suppose. Simple test is measure the voltage at the back of the headlight compared to back of the alternator or battery, wherever you would choose to take the power feed from. 2015 RRS Autobiography SDV6
1994 Def 90 300tdi

9th Sep 2016 7:20am

BuckBlu110

Member Since: 19 Apr 2014
Location: in the pub
Posts: 716

1994 Defender 110 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel CSW Buckingham Blue

I was under the impression that although the led bulbs may be e marked, they are illegal to fit into a light housing that was designed for filament bulbs.
Before my I changed to led, I had osram night breakers, wipac crystals and an upgraded loom. The difference to standard was unbelievable and makes you wonder why it wasn't done as standard.

9th Sep 2016 7:28am

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20546

Operating voltage with alternator charging should be around 14.2v direct at the battery.

At the headlights on mine it's 12.1v.
However, I think I checked that with ignition on only.

However, they do vary in voltage at the lights!

9th Sep 2016 9:29am

Stacey007

Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3776

Custom90

Thanks for the pics, Given I have the bulbs, the wipac clears seem to be the way forward

Rather do it now while weather not too bad..

9th Sep 2016 9:42am

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20546

They look a lot more modern too and being Polycarbonate less prone to breakage.

9th Sep 2016 11:43am

Lew-M

Member Since: 04 Apr 2016
Location: North West
Posts: 95

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Keswick Green

Anyone have a link for where to get the stainless bezels from?

Thanks,
Lew

9th Sep 2016 12:43pm

MartinK

Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2665

I have the mobile centre ones...
https://www.mobilecentre.co.uk/index.php?m...cts_id=617

Mine are silver tho... Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)

9th Sep 2016 1:00pm

MartinK

Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2665

found the silver ones
https://www.mobilecentre.co.uk/index.php?m...cts_id=616
cheaper too

Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)

9th Sep 2016 1:02pm

Clive

Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Littleborough
Posts: 467

2004 Defender 90 Td5 X-Tech LE Zambezi Silver

custom90steve wrote:
Operating voltage with alternator charging should be around 14.2v direct at the battery.

At the headlights on mine it's 12.1v.
However, I think I checked that with ignition on only.

However, they do vary in voltage at the lights!

It's true about the voltage drop through the switch and wiring, this will cause the headlights to be more dim than they should, however a second very good reason for fitting secondary relays (Boomslang Etc.) after some decent bulbs, is to greatly improve the reliability of the light switch itself, it's a very outdated design to have all the power for the lights coming directly through the switch, little wonder that so many people have had theirs melt or simply stop working.

That's why I've fitted a Boomslang loom with uprated bulbs and Crystal lamps, one of the most worthwhile mods I've done.

9th Sep 2016 1:20pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20546

I know the issue you mean, direct current through the switch.

My SS bezels came from BoB via eBay, they are all the same where ever they come from.

It's worth remembering 4x4 Overlander sell stainless fixings and clips etc too as the bezels don't come with any.
My own 90 has stainless bezels but standard fixings which need swapping.

That reminds me to do that!

Finally what ever you are doing with the lights they'll likely need the beam angle etc adjusting.
Especially come MOT time, either get them aligned first or often testers will do in on the MOT anyway.

9th Sep 2016 4:15pm

bm52

Member Since: 04 Apr 2010
Location: Kent
Posts: 2189

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Havana

Are all the later Defenders wired in the same way?
I have a MY14 - do I need a harness as well?

9th Sep 2016 4:49pm

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