 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear Door rattle !!!! |
 
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| Wheel Member Since: 28 May 2014 Location: Essex Posts: 233  
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Hi Gents,
I wonder if anyone can help as the rear door on my year old 90 rattles and annoys the f*@k out of me. I've adjustable the striker a couple of times but to no great avil, is there a knack or something i'm missing. It's in for a service next week but if poss i'd like to try sorting it before getting them to do it. Thanks, Mark |
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22nd May 2016 9:16am |
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| Wheel Member Since: 28 May 2014 Location: Essex Posts: 233
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Thanks Mike,
I'll check but i'm hoping not as it's not a year old yet !!! Mark |
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22nd May 2016 10:01am |
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| Fatboy Slim Member Since: 04 Feb 2008 Location: Bridgend Posts: 1006 
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Change your hinges
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22nd May 2016 10:39am |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
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Mark around the striker plate in pencil, slacken the fastenings and move it in toward the front of the vehicle a bit, tighten the fixings and test / repeat as required. Unless you spend all day opening and closing the door at a year old the hinges shouldn't have worn that much. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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23rd May 2016 10:17am |
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| clifflandy Member Since: 13 Mar 2014 Location: Lichfield Posts: 109 
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I agree it's very unlikely a one year old will be needing new hinges.
In addition to moving the striker plate it's also possible to adjust the rubber contact on the striker plate. This worked for me and stopped my Puma rear safari door rattle. With the door open locate the two screws on top of the striker plate rubber. Unscrew a little and you will notice the rubber contact will drop slightly. This means the door will be gripped more tightly when closed. After this it's a matter of trial and error picking an adjustment which holds the closed door tightly enough to prevent a rattle. |
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23rd May 2016 10:31am |
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| Wheel Member Since: 28 May 2014 Location: Essex Posts: 233
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Thanks Steve + Cliff,
I have actually adjusted it every which way but I started by moving it further fwd as that was my first thought. It didn't really make much, if any difference but I was looking at it yesterday and thought of making a shim/spacer for the rubber block although as Cliff pointed out it may just release a bit if undone so i'll try that later. Thanks, Mark |
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23rd May 2016 10:40am |
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| Defender2014 Member Since: 25 Aug 2014 Location: Buckinghamshire Posts: 65 
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Hi,
Not sure if it was my imagination or wishful thinking but I felt fitting the nakydakydoodaa gas strut kit to mine helped with the rattle........ Defender Puma 110XS SW Kawasaki ZX9R El Suzuki RGV250M Honda CB250N Super Dream |
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25th May 2016 9:13pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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I've had creaking too, continued with wheel on and also off ... lots of driving either way.
Chucked in a fair amount of white lithium and worked the hinges while I was installing stainless bolts = creak gone. A heavier wheel installed (wolf with MT) - still no creak. Lube worked for me at least. Result = I am hearing the next creak down the list, which appears to be interior trim creaking when the vehicle flexes (110) I've started talking to myself  Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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25th May 2016 9:26pm |
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| gazman Member Since: 17 Aug 2015 Location: Liverpool Posts: 652 
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I stopped mine by adjusting the external spare wheel carrier. It's a mantel style one and a few of the bolts had worked loose and gave the worst rattle in the world 2014 - current ..... 2003 defender td5 90 (my car)
2009 - current .... 2005 zx10r |
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25th May 2016 9:49pm |
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| cozz Member Since: 15 May 2013 Location: nottingham Posts: 539 |
I stopped mine by adjusting the external spare wheel carrier. It's a mantek style one and a few of the bolts had worked loose and gave the worst rattle in the world
I did mine tonight, spare off, nuts were loose, now sorted |
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25th May 2016 9:53pm |
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| NMBRPL8 Member Since: 07 Jul 2015 Location: Australia Posts: 147 
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Touch wood, but none of my 30 year old vehicles that have done 100s of thousands of km over remote aussie dirt roads have displayed any problems from having the spare on the back except requiring repair and reinforcement of the rear door's steel frame.
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26th May 2016 9:24am |
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| Wheel Member Since: 28 May 2014 Location: Essex Posts: 233
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Sorry Gents I need to apologise as I omitted an important fact, I have 18" Overfinch wheels with 265/75 tyres fitted.
For scientific reasons, we'll not quite, it was off for its first service I fitted the original Boosts with 238/85 MTR's (don't ask) and adjustable the latch and low + behold no rattle but now i'm not sure if it's the adjustment or weight of wheel + tyre so i'm gonna weigh them to see if there's a lot of difference and will feedback findings. I must say I'd forget and was pleasantly suprised how well it drove and how much lighter the steering was with the original set up on. Unfortunately the black Overfinch wheels just look so much better and will be going back on very shortly !!! Mark |
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30th May 2016 9:20am |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
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Surely 18" wheels with tyres should be lighter than 16" wheels? Isn't that the whole point?
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30th May 2016 11:45am |
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