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jimbob7



Member Since: 06 Jul 2013
Location: uk
Posts: 2055

/\/\/\ If you dont have alloy wheels removing the flanges is EASIER than removing the wheel,i used the same grease for splines as for the bearings. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
Post #421555 6th May 2015 1:00pm
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Reading this as I have the beginnings of red dust and a wee bit of slop/backlash at the rear, when moving it with the wheels up it sounds like the reflected 'clunk' I hear when driving near a wall.

Going to be changing brake pads soon, may as well clean/inspect/grease all four splines, oh and the swivel grease situation up front.

Does anyone have a good list of do's and don'ts here, or is it all along the lines of 'if you find a circlip, take it off', 'if you find a bolt, unscrew it' and everything makes sense? Then just reverse process when going back together?

Correct order maybe? Special tools? Easy, but non-obvious ways to get around certain tasks?

Tightening torques for all the bolts??

I'm particularly interested in not stuffing up the brakes/brake hydraulics.

Thanks in advance for your hard earned wisdom! Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #530846 12th May 2016 2:19am
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jimbob7



Member Since: 06 Jul 2013
Location: uk
Posts: 2055

Changing the rear shafts/drives are a doddle,you don't even need to remove the (steel??) wheel (follow the same procedure),the fronts can be an utter pita,quite a few peeps have had to cut the N/S drive member off. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
Post #530918 12th May 2016 10:00am
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Alloys, but can remove.

So just go for gold undo everything I see? Nothing I can break? I'll see how it works as it goes and she'll be right cobber? Cool

All new to me and I cant see how it goes until I undo it. Most of the time I'm ok with pulling the machine apart and back together again (usually in a better state), but one occasion with it stranded in the driveway for a week is enough (broken clutch master banjo bolt), hence the trepidation... Neutral

What are the torques when it's going back together? Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #530928 12th May 2016 10:24am
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jimbob7



Member Since: 06 Jul 2013
Location: uk
Posts: 2055

Need paper gasket for the drives,other than that no harder than changing wheels (apart from the fronts Evil or Very Mad ).I fitted H/D drives and packed them solid with grease,same grease I use for the UJ's,(universal joints....Propshafts,lol).Can't remember the torque settings,but you should really own a Haynes/Clymer manual by now Shocked Shocked ,or at least have access to a snide online version. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
Post #530934 12th May 2016 10:50am
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