 | Home > Technical > Badly worn drive shaft / flange |
 
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| Clive Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Littleborough Posts: 467   
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I used an M10 x 1.5 tap to run through the hub threads to clean them up, then used new bolts with a dab of fresh Loctite on them, (torqued to 65Nm,) made re-assembly a less traumatic experience
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23rd Apr 2015 10:14am |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
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While removal and greasing the splines is the ideal scenario I wonder if those with new or nearly new vehicles would be advised to pop the dust caps and circlips and run a bit of oil into the splines every now and again. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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23rd Apr 2015 11:08am |
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| zone30 Member Since: 07 Sep 2012 Location: Gent Posts: 669  
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Grease would be better, no? If so, what grease?
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23rd Apr 2015 11:31am |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
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That's what I'm wondering if I can get away with, albeit with grease, or whether none with go down the splines and it will just end up everywhere else! I'm reluctant to take the drive flange off without having a new gasket and set of bolts. |
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23rd Apr 2015 12:24pm |
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| Nidge Member Since: 27 Jan 2008 Location: Kildare Ireland Posts: 821  
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In your opinion what is the best way to bolt on the Flange ??
Loctite on the bolts and torque up Or Spring washers under the bolt heads. I tend to use spring washers as less chance of the bolt getting welded into the hub, find it easier to change the flange in years ( months ) to come. |
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23rd Apr 2015 12:52pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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Previously I've always used spring washers, but that was because my Lightweight came like that!
On another vehicle were the steel bolts were going into an aluminium housing, and it was safety critical, i.e. caliper mounting, then a liberal coating with a medium threadlock did the double job of holding them tight & separating the dissimilar metals. On a puma, I think a little threadlock on the bolt threads wouldn't hurt. |
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23rd Apr 2015 1:18pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
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as normal anything is better than nothing as a stop gap preventive measure ! |
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23rd Apr 2015 1:44pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17680 
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The flange bolts are M10x45 grade 10.9. The bolts supplied by LR are preloaded with threadlocker.
I use hex socket head capscrews, which are widely available, the same grade, and much cheaper. I also use (good quality) spring washers not threadlocker, since the majority of breakages are caused by the holes becoming plugged with threadlocker and/or gasket compound. There's no reason why you shouldn't use Hylomar instead of a gasket but take care not to get it in the bolt holes or on the threads. The holes have always been blind, even on S1 vehicles. |
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23rd Apr 2015 3:40pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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Do you use new bolts each time?
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23rd Apr 2015 5:35pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17680
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No, why would you? They're not stretch bolts so provided they haven't been overtightened (use a torque wrench) they should last indefinitely.
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23rd Apr 2015 6:35pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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Workshop manual states fit new - just thought that it was odd.
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23rd Apr 2015 8:36pm |
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| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 645  
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I think, recommendation to use new is because they have them prepared with a threadlocker. But use old screws, clean them and apply a "Loctite" is "the same". "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "BlufÃnek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo
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23rd Apr 2015 8:58pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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I can understand that - I think my main dealer charges labour at the equivalent of £1.90 per minute, so a couple of minutes cleaning a bolt x 2 soon adds up to more than the cost of new bolts!
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24th Apr 2015 10:30am |
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| zone30 Member Since: 07 Sep 2012 Location: Gent Posts: 669
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Just a noob question:
Would it suffice to grease the bearings without removing them? I have HD flanges laying around which I like to fit, but haven't found the courage yet due to not feeling informed enough yet. If so, what grease? If not, just remove, grease and put back or always replace bearings? It's my daily drive, so I can not afford taking stuff appart I cannot refit within one day/weekend, nor get stuck not having the wright tools or parts. (Puma 2.4) |
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6th May 2015 9:02am |
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