 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear brake pads |
 
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| Merlin Member Since: 30 Oct 2010 Location: Newmarket Posts: 981  
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I'd recommend stainless steel pistons. There is another thread with details.
Merlin |
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5th Dec 2014 4:16pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6312  
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Great - thanks for that.
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5th Dec 2014 4:43pm |
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| Rickydodah Member Since: 14 Jul 2014 Location: East Sussex Posts: 1091 |
I'm with Munch on this one. In my days as a technical advisor for a major motor chain this question arose, after spending a week at Lockheed/Girling factory at Redditch they were very much in favour of using a copper based anti-seize product. As pretty much all brake sealing components have been made from synthetic products the petroleum base of most greases has no detrimental effect. There are some vegetable based greases which used to seriously damage components and vice versa with petroleum based but by and large they were natural rubber based which used to badly deteriorate even in sunlight (anyone remember the Citroen suspension systems). In the best part of fifty years I've probably used about a hundredweight (about 50kg for anyone younger than 40) and the only problem I've ever had is trying to wash the stuff out of my boiler suits.
 I started with nothing and still have most of it left! |
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5th Dec 2014 4:58pm |
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| Birdy Member Since: 07 Oct 2011 Location: Côte d'Azur Posts: 870  
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Coincidentally, my supplying/main dealer has just ‘phoned to say that at my truck’s 4th service and MOT in July there was an ”advisory” to the effect that the rear pads would soon need changing. Not true, and the only MOT comment was “Engine covers fitted obscuring some components in the engine bay” which I found bizarre.
Anyway, they’ll be pleased to book my vehicle in to do the job before Christmas… at a cost of £174.00! Like Caterham, I’ve found changing pads simple enough - I know one can get caught out, but I’ve always been lucky with the pistons retracting quite easily - and although I’d buy genuine LR pads rather than experimenting with EBC or whatever, the dealer’s taking the proverbial. Peter How much ARE genuine LR pads, by the way? |
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5th Dec 2014 5:15pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6312
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They're £173.
Birdy no idea would imagine / hope less than £50. So I guess they're charging circa 1 - 1.25 hrs? |
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5th Dec 2014 9:55pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6312
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Not had a good day today so don't want to attempt the front pads tonight if they're going to be more difficult than the back...
I presume / hope that the front won't be any more difficult than the rear's? |
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6th Dec 2014 5:18pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6771 
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Surely you don't think changing rear pads was hard
 if so maybe you should leave car maintenance to a qualified garage! |
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6th Dec 2014 6:43pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6312
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No the back's were a doddle......
I just didn't want to start something that might turn out to be a bummer......... Anyhow I've now done the front o/s. No new pins or springs this time so had to re-use the originals. Not sure why there weren't??? Last edited by Caterham on 15th Dec 2014 7:13am. Edited 1 time in total |
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6th Dec 2014 8:08pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6312
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all done.......
which means if I can do it anyone can!! |
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15th Dec 2014 7:12am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6312
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I need to retract my last statement of easy / done it.
Well gone and done it might be better....for the 3rd time tonight brake warning light came on any def has been pulling to left when braking....quite significantly on on occasion. Checked brake fluid level and front o/s wheel.....fluid level looks fine / high but wheel and disc covered in oil! Not sure what I did wrong but clearly something ain't right?  |
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8th Jan 2015 10:47pm |
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| RobKeay Member Since: 19 Jul 2009 Location: Stafford Posts: 1588 
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Is it oil or dirty brake fluid? Any chance the brake pipe got damaged? Be careful!
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8th Jan 2015 10:59pm |
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| RobKeay Member Since: 19 Jul 2009 Location: Stafford Posts: 1588
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The light will come on even if it's 1mm to low
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8th Jan 2015 11:00pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5771 
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Check the bleed nipple is tight first. And top up the fluid even if it looks ok, before air gets in the system.
Andy |
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8th Jan 2015 11:27pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6312
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I've not touched the brake nipped but will have a look all the same.
Thanks. |
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9th Jan 2015 7:41am |
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