 | Home > Technical > Defender 90 (2004) TD5 - Front Hub |
 
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5792  
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New nut required
Andy |
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21st Aug 2014 11:47am |
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| Tank Member Since: 25 Jul 2014 Location: Fife Posts: 431  
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Andy
Really ! ! Devon 4 x 4 said no ? Why ?  |
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21st Aug 2014 12:08pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17559  
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As Andy says, you should fit a new nut. In my experience it is generally satisfactory to reuse the old one once, especially in an emergency situation, provided that it was not damaged when being removed. I would certainly not use a nut more than once and as a general rule would always try to fit a new one.
The problem is that the area you stake down always tends to be the in the same place, so it will work-harden or fatigue and break. |
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21st Aug 2014 12:18pm |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039  
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In the workshop manual it says new nut and it is advisable to use a new nut specially if you have the lock the nut in the same area. That is weakened by the previous time it was locked so you won't have an secure locking nut.
If you make up the nut 180 deg further so the previous bend part is now up and you will have to lock the brm part you might get away with the old nut. You will only do some serious damage to your barking system and maybe to your and other persons cars and maybe bodies, so it's up to you what you do. 
I have to admit I did it before.  Roel
1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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21st Aug 2014 12:22pm |
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| Tank Member Since: 25 Jul 2014 Location: Fife Posts: 431
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Is this the right one ?
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RFD100000P |
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21st Aug 2014 12:24pm |
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| Tank Member Since: 25 Jul 2014 Location: Fife Posts: 431
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Roel
Cheers Duncan |
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21st Aug 2014 1:02pm |
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| Tank Member Since: 25 Jul 2014 Location: Fife Posts: 431
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Its the new type bearing I am using with the spacer, not the older ones ?
Duncan |
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21st Aug 2014 1:03pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5792
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Old system = reuse nuts
New system (with spacers) = new nut each time This is part of the reason why old system is preferred. I also find that it eventually damaged the thread on the hub as unlocking the stake nut always deforms thread, causing damage as you then unwind. Andy |
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21st Aug 2014 1:48pm |
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| Tank Member Since: 25 Jul 2014 Location: Fife Posts: 431
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Thanks Andy
I understand why Land Rover did the new system as its cheaper for them but can I change to the old system easily ? Can I keep the same hub and stub axle and simply change the bearings etc. If so what parts do I need, the suppliers I phoned up couldn't really help and that's why I have ended up going with what I have at the moment ! I am just going to put on what I have because of the faff in getting all the bits but a list of what I need part number wise for changing to the old system would be great 
Cheers Duncan |
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21st Aug 2014 3:11pm |
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| Fifth Horseman Member Since: 08 Mar 2011 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 328 
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Stub axle is the same
Nuts and washers per axle: 2x Nuts FRC8700 1x Lockwasher FTC3179 1x Thrust washer FTC3185 replaces 1x Nut RFD1000000 1x Thrustwasher FTC5241 1x Spacer Fitting and Adjusting 12. Fit thrust washer. 13. Fit hub adjusting nut.Tighten to 50Nm(37lbf/ft). Ensure hub is free to rotate with no bearing play. 14. Back off adjusting nut 90° and tighten to 10 Nm (7 lbf/ft). 15. Fit a new lock washer. 16. Fit outer nut.Tighten to 50Nm (37lbf/ft). 17. Tab over lock washer to secure adjusting nut and locknut. 18. Fit a new joint washer to driving member and fit member to hub. Tighten bolts to 65 Nm (48lbf/ft). |
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21st Aug 2014 7:08pm |
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| Tank Member Since: 25 Jul 2014 Location: Fife Posts: 431
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JESUS CHRIST ! !
Took everything off tonight and when I got to the hub nut it was FECKING finger tight ! ! ! What the hell ! can it come loose over time WTF ! Scary. Don't know if the bearings are dead. When you spin the disk they do crumble so I will replace then but really surprised at the loose nut ! I have done 2,000 miles since I got the landy wonder how much was with a loose hub nut. The brakes only did go funny a few weeks ago so I think that's when it came loose, if it can by simple use ! ! Just go to find a video showing me how to get the bearing races out now 
Duncan |
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21st Aug 2014 8:03pm |
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| Fifth Horseman Member Since: 08 Mar 2011 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 328
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Although with the spacer the nut is tightened to 150nm before being staked, because the thread is fairly coarse and there is no slight stretching of the hub when tightened (as there would be with a normal bolt being tightened) it only requires a small angular movement of the nut to render it only finger tight - as you found.
As long as it was staked correctly there should not be a problem - the nut is not always easy to stake so it can't move. Personally I'd rather rely on the old two nut method. The only other way that wear would loosen the nut would be if the bearing inner race spins and wears the spacer/hub/thrust washer. |
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21st Aug 2014 8:30pm |
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| Tank Member Since: 25 Jul 2014 Location: Fife Posts: 431
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Confused, staked - whats is that exactly ?
There seems to be play in the swivel ball ? how much should there be ? |
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21st Aug 2014 8:38pm |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039
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Getting the bearing races out is easy. If you have the hub off you will see that the bearing races have a little smaller ID as the Hub it selves. So with something like a big screwdriver youe can hammer the lower bearing race out. Then turn the hub around and hammer the other one out.
Don't throw the old bearing races away as the are perfect to drive the new ones in place. It also works great for driving the hub seal in. One more tip. Don't ask me how I know: If you use the old bearing race to tap the new bearing race in, use it the same way as the bearing race goes in so thick part first. Otherwise it will be difficult to get it out the hub again. For the oil seal use the thin part first this way it goes over the lip. Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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21st Aug 2014 8:39pm |
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