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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039   
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I have little experience with 110's but I think you should be able to fully lock-up all wheels. (You don't have ABS I assume).
I just did my Defensive driving course and there they say you need to be able to push 70 kg on the brake paddle. In my normal seating position I could not.  My leg was stretched before I came close to 70 kg.
New brake pads do not have the full grip yet but I think you might have a problem with your brake servo. I don't have any answer on your steering question. Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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6th Jun 2014 6:47am |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663  
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Hi Roel,
Nope, no ABS on this one. Pretty sure I'm putting well over 70kg into the peddle, nut still nothing. I did wonder about the servo! I'd expect they should be fully worn in after 200 miles, so I hope they are at their optimum bite. They've had the maximum available surface area being new pads on new discs so should of worn in within the first 100 hopefully. I'll keep running them in for a little longer though to be sure. Are there any tests I can perform with the servo to see if it's shot? I can build up pressure with the engine off, then when I rest my foot on pedal I can feel it go down when I turn the engine on, so it's trying to 'assist'. Just doesn't have the grunt to lock completely! |
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6th Jun 2014 7:50am |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663
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Update: Drove a friends, new to him, Disco 2 TD5 back to his house on Saturday just gone and the brake were original but on a whole other planet! Bloody hell could that thing brake! I'm even more sure there's something wrong with mine.
If anyone can help it would be appreciated! |
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9th Jun 2014 11:01am |
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| Clive Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Littleborough Posts: 467 
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Might be worth checking the vacuum pump and lines, could be a leak or a faulty pump preventing full servo assistance.
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9th Jun 2014 11:08am |
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| BigRuss Member Since: 15 May 2010 Location: Norfolk Posts: 2785 
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Are you bleeding the brakes in the right sequence? If not you could in advert ably be putting air in the system. Russell
2011MY 110 XS USW Black |
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9th Jun 2014 11:17am |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663
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Bleeding goes from furthest to closest. That's how I've done cars so assume this is still correct? When changing the callipers I used a pipe bung when removing the old, then placed the lines into the new callipers. So in theory there should of only been air in the callipers and did each one, one by one. And bled each one after putting it on!
I will give it another bleed, but I'm almost certain they're pretty much air free! I have though about the vacuum pump. Could the M/C also be an issue, or if these go, do they usually leak etc? As mines leak free (M/C is anyway :p). |
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9th Jun 2014 12:06pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2229 
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The pads will need to bed it before the braking performance will be optimal. As a side not fitting new discs and pads then immediately attempting multiple emergency stops will not help the discs or pads!
I trust you fully degreased the discs before fitting them? Our 110 DC wothout abs can easily lock all four wheels on dry tarmac with goodyear wranglers. Cheers Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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9th Jun 2014 12:26pm |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663
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Hi Steve,
Sorry, I should of added. First 100 miles we're bedded in properly, then the next 250 miles were reasonably normal with a few heavy braking instances, but by 350-450 miles, I would of normally expected bedding in to be done! And yep, fully degreased! Cheers. |
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9th Jun 2014 12:29pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2229
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Thats okay then
Often come across people who seem to think that fitting new pads and discs then braking as hard as they can from 1000mph will bed them in! How does the pedal feel when the engine is switched off and the servo vacuum has gone (pump pedal a few times after turning off)? Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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9th Jun 2014 12:35pm |
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| g-mack Member Since: 07 Jan 2014 Location: northumberland Posts: 1967
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servo test i did.
run engine, spray servo around the nuts that hold brake cylinder to it (front of servo) get it nice and wet, switch of engine listen for hissing!!!! My 109 thread my youtube channel |
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9th Jun 2014 12:40pm |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663
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I've seen someone do that on a tin top racer, resulted in a blown disc and very badly damaged four figure wheel! So I tend not to do that to much!
Just gone and sat in the car park flashing away with the brake lights :p! On instant getting in, pedal moves a little then stiffens up as you'd expect, after 6-10 pumps, still feels the same. Start engine with foot rested on pedal, I'd expect movement and could of sworn blind it used to, but there was no movement, btu after a let off and repress it went a little further. Then turned engine off and after 6-10 more pumps, again, very little change. Bit of movement, then rock solid! But like I say, on the road, this doesn't result in to much brake power. Hope you get my description anyway, not the easiest thing to try and write down :p! |
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9th Jun 2014 12:43pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2229
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Possibly sounding like a servo problem then! If its a TD5 im guessing that you have the EGR vacuum solenoids on the offside inner wing. Check all of the pipework around them to make sure that you are not loosing vacuum through them. Also check the main vacuum pipe leading to the servo.
Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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9th Jun 2014 12:50pm |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6093 
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I had a similar problem with my 110. the brakes were never very good. good enough to pass an MoT, but like you say, wouldn't lock up.
When I built my project90, the brakes ont that were great (and they were 110's all round, i.e. larger rear dics and calipers) so i'd expect it to brake a little better anyway, but it was night and day compared to the 110. Anyway, one day I decided to swap parts over and eliminate the problem (I'd bled the 110 brakes about 3 times with a gunsone easybleader so knew it was AOK air wise) Turned out to be a 2 pence O ring between the back of the pedal and the servo. I had the bonnet removed, and had turned the engine off, got out and heard a "Pssssst" noise... air leaking. It was this O ring. and it was letting vacuum out. so eventhough there was some vacuum, there wasn't enough. Changed the seal. bam! instant better brakes. |
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10th Jun 2014 12:21pm |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663
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Hi All,
Just thought I'd update this ... I've been messing around with steering lately so the brake took aback burner but yesterday whilst outside a friend I decided to pull the vacuum hose. Started engine, pulled fitting off of the Servo and put me thumb over. Damn thing nearly pulled my thumb in! There's a reasonable amount of suction there! At the weekend I had the engine cover off for the first time and found the EGR vacuum pipes were left un-blanked and still plugged in (this is what brought the brakes back to my attention). To a certain extent, I thought great, might be an easy fix this! Plugged the vacuum hoses and also unplugged the solenoids for good measure so it wouldn't even activate them anyway. Went for the test drive after the steering malarky, but nope ... braes still the same! Every now and again though since this, sometimes I get a lot more movement on the pedal, usually the first push after the trucks been sat, but second or third pump, it's back to stiff with what feels like no assistance! Brakes will be well and truly bedded in by now and I've bled again with no air. Is this a Servo problem now if I'm getting plenty of suction!? (Ooer!) Or could the M/C still be at fault? On a side note ... the ROW Brake vacuum pipe that doesn't have the 'T' Piece (no EGR) in used to be like £12-13 ... Only 2 places that have it want over £100 for the hose! Utterly appalling! |
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24th Jun 2014 11:20am |
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