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Matthew_Mills



Member Since: 16 Feb 2014
Location: Somerset
Posts: 152

England 
OEM NAS step bumper 240Nm
So I've just picked up my OEM step bumper and reading the instructions most bolts are rated at 45 or 58Nm but the 2 next bolts that secure the bumper to the rear face of the cross member are stated as being 240Nm... Seems massive compared to all the others!

Opinions please... Seems massive and in fact higher than my wrench goes!

Help appreciated...

Matt
Post #317993 21st Mar 2014 11:08pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20487

United Kingdom 
Is that the two range bolts? Around m16 or there abouts? No Guts, No Glory.
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Post #317997 21st Mar 2014 11:15pm
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Skeggy 90



Member Since: 07 Oct 2013
Location: Skeg Vegas
Posts: 233

England 2011 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 SW Bali Blue
As tight as possible is best, or 3 white knuckles if you want to be precise.
Post #317998 21st Mar 2014 11:16pm
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Matthew_Mills



Member Since: 16 Feb 2014
Location: Somerset
Posts: 152

England 
Exactly the 2 hex M16s...

I've also just seen the 2 spacer for the vert ends the instruction just show a '?' So I assume that means use the if? What there's a gap? Daft instructions why don't they just use words...
Post #317999 21st Mar 2014 11:18pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20487

United Kingdom 
They are that tight because they are two of the main load bearing bolts. I removed my whole step a week or two ago.
Didn't use any torque settings.
Those two m16's I'd tighten as much as possible (with in sensible reason)
The bolts nearer the extremities need to be tight too but don't over do it or it will buckle the X member.
Basically the bigger the bolt the tighter it should be because it's load bearing.
I'd copper grease them too for easier removal in the future.
In all honesty I wouldn't bother with the torque settings and use your own judgement. No Guts, No Glory.
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Post #318003 21st Mar 2014 11:34pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20487

United Kingdom 
If you want any photos of mine I'd happily take some and PM you them so you can see what us what and where. No Guts, No Glory.
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Post #318004 21st Mar 2014 11:36pm
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Matthew_Mills



Member Since: 16 Feb 2014
Location: Somerset
Posts: 152

England 
All of the other are typically 45Nm which seems low but 240Nm for just these 2 feels like a mis print!
Post #318006 21st Mar 2014 11:41pm
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3646

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
if you check the internet there are loads of standard torque charts which may help DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #318020 22nd Mar 2014 6:31am
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landys1



Member Since: 04 Dec 2013
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 134

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Matt, I fitted one to my Puma a few weeks ago, yes 240nm is correct for two centre bolts to rear cross member (they're taking all the strain). My torque wrench only went up to 220nm, so I did it to that, then a bit more for luck - can't see them ever coming loose!! Oh, yes and as mentioned, I put copper grease on all bolts during install

Pic below...



Click image to enlarge
 1959 Series 2 Ragtop
1989 SWB Stationwagon
1998 300Tdi Hard Top and 2012 2.2 Puma Hardtop (at work)
2011 Puma 90 2.4 XS
Post #318028 22nd Mar 2014 7:19am
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Matthew_Mills



Member Since: 16 Feb 2014
Location: Somerset
Posts: 152

England 
Okay, so I guess the instruction leaflet is so old anything incorrect would have been addressed by now... And as suggested above I'll be using copper grease... Pics to follow...
Post #318081 22nd Mar 2014 11:20am
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Matthew_Mills



Member Since: 16 Feb 2014
Location: Somerset
Posts: 152

England 
Before

After

Job done...

We'll not quite, kit should have had 2 M16 x 30s but one of mine was a 25! Fitted but of to the dealer Monday for a replacement.

Typical!
Post #318144 22nd Mar 2014 5:11pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20487

United Kingdom 
Thumbs Up You might find the tow hitch is a little high in that location if you tow.
I know it sits a little low but I reckon in it's current position it will be too high. No Guts, No Glory.
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Post #318157 22nd Mar 2014 5:39pm
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Matthew_Mills



Member Since: 16 Feb 2014
Location: Somerset
Posts: 152

England 
I doubt it will ever get used to tow anything... Purely positioned for recovery use... Frankly even in the lower position it's higher than standard height!
Post #318158 22nd Mar 2014 5:46pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20487

United Kingdom 
Ah, not a problem then. Thumbs Up I got my ball and pin hitch for that same reason too. I've used it once too and pulled out a 2 ton van out of mud no trouble. No Guts, No Glory.
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Post #318165 22nd Mar 2014 6:12pm
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Matthew_Mills



Member Since: 16 Feb 2014
Location: Somerset
Posts: 152

England 
Yep... There's a Zeon 12 up front. So as well as the odd pull the pin is so I can 'anchor' from the rear for the odd heavier pull... Not a 100% about using the step bumper as the bars that direct the load to the chassis main members have elongated holes to allow for adjustment. With the amount of fixing I'm sure it will take a reasonable load.

It won't get any abrupt 'tugs' because I have a kinetic recovery rope... Steady load always better Thumbs Up

And more importantly I won't be digging any more holes in Mother Nature, grounded the old one 3 times last weekend. I kind of knew I'd made a mistake when I bought it, and lifting the whole drop plate 1 hole was not enough...

Anyway will be putting it up for sale soon... The old tow set up!

Cheers for all the help and advice peeps. Bow down

Since had a good wash! All clean for the next outing Rolling with laughter
Post #318182 22nd Mar 2014 7:24pm
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