 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Puma 2.4 Diff Oil & Drain plugs |
 
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| big steve Member Since: 24 Dec 2009 Location: hertfordshire Posts: 2456   
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hi welcome to the forum
1/2 inch ratchet does the job no you dont need sealent as there on a taper i dont torque them up but just give them a good turn so there F/T gearbox oil shouldnt need to be changed on a puma really but its personel preference i spose 
i know proper oil for the gearbox is about £23 a litre hope you enjoy the new ownership 2015 2.2 tdci hardtop xs 3.2 conversion DONE 238bhp and 707nm torque and thats just the start ;-P hybrid turbo in build -done ready to fit ashcroft atb in transfer box 6 speed auto in build |
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1st May 2014 7:41am |
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| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2665 
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This linky may help
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic8707.html Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
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1st May 2014 9:09am |
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| DavidBMB Member Since: 01 May 2014 Location: West Sussex Posts: 17 
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Thanks all for the advice. That's part of my weekend sorted.
I'm enjoying the truck despite all it's flaws it's got character which not much does these days! |
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1st May 2014 7:29pm |
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| DavidBMB Member Since: 01 May 2014 Location: West Sussex Posts: 17
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A supplementary question... I keep reading that the early Puma clutch was replaced. Any idea when this was. Would my 2010 have the new design?
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1st May 2014 7:33pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17478 
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There have now been at least 4 versions of the Puma clutch driven plate, they are getting better but are still not great. A 2010 vehicle will probably have the current version, but when it needs replacing it will be because the springs are failing not because it's worn out. It should be good for 50k miles at least, but once the "death rattle" starts and the gearchange becomes snatchy then fit a new one.
Sadly LR forgot how to design a decent clutch after the 300Tdi and both Td5 and Tdci are pretty hopeless. At least the Puma doesn't have a DMF, so the clutch is relatively cheap. |
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1st May 2014 9:39pm |
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| smb Member Since: 15 Jan 2013 Location: Cheshire Posts: 1232
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Hi David,
Welcome to the Forum. As Blackwolf has said, there are a number of versions. Mine is a 2010(2011my) and started the rattle at about 25k. I carried with the rattle getting worse and at 60k heavy vibrations started through the drive train and by 65k I thought it was about time I got a new clutch. Got the AP clutch pack from LRS and it completely changed the quality of drive. Far better than the early days of the old one. However, the clutch that came out had FORD stamped all over it. It was only half worn which is pretty good for 65k with lots of towing, but all the springs were completely shot at with a number of retaining lugs worn to nothing. I probably could have got another 30k out of it, but it was the vibration(similar to off balance wheels) that got too much to cope with. Speak to Derek at LRS and ask him for the best current clutch pack and I am sure he will advise right. He always does me a good deal and excellent service. |
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1st May 2014 10:19pm |
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| timbar Member Since: 30 Jul 2013 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 245 
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Going further off topic but -- are these two vids good examples of the clutch rattle? Can hear what sounds like a sustained, quick hard rattle laid over the engine noise, completely unlike the EGR chunka-chunka, which is quite slow.
2009 110 XS Station Wagon |
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2nd May 2014 1:37am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17478
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The easiest way tyo check for worn springs in the driven plate is to switch the engine off in neutral with the clutch in (ie pedal up, foot off clutch) and listen for a brief unmistakable rattle as the driven plate hub and gearbox mainshaft rattles back and forth against the clutch springs. Compare the sound to switching off the engine with your foot on the clutch (ie clutch out).
With a good clutch there should be virtually no differenc in sound. With a dying clutch it will be unmistakable. If you do have a rattly clutch, be prepared to be delighted with the improvement in drive quality when you get it renewed. Because the deterioration is gradual and progressive you tend not really to be aware of it getting worse. The improvement is sudden and huge, and will put a smile on your face. |
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2nd May 2014 8:20am |
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| DavidBMB Member Since: 01 May 2014 Location: West Sussex Posts: 17
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Again., thank you all for the advice. I think my clutch is ok at the moment. Well, by that I mean there is no significant rattle. Changing from first to second can sometimes be a little clunky even with a v slow gear change but I think that's usual with a defender !
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2nd May 2014 8:48am |
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| timbar Member Since: 30 Jul 2013 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 245
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Yeah, needs to be slow and you need to feel what the engine's doing.
@blackwolf -- thanks 2009 110 XS Station Wagon |
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2nd May 2014 12:21pm |
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